Jestersix

a modest first nano effort

As requested in response to my intro in the welcome section, I thought I'd start a thread on my little bedroom nano.

History
Eons ago, circa 2000-2005, I had a 150 gallon bent glass island tank, bull-nosed at one end. It sat in a glorious natural cherry cabinet and had a few hundred pounds of aquacultured live rock in it, a massive DSB, an old mandarin goby, a hawkfish, and a snazzy looking lemon peel angel, as well as mushrooms (I love love love mushrooms), xenia, open brain coral, sea mats (love love these too), tube worms, christmas tree worms, hermits, snails, and what-have you. It had 450w of Ushio mh lighting, lots of huge pumps, a Ramora skimmer, and all the nifty stuff I could figure out how to afford. I think total water movement was something on the order of 6000 gph (head and drag not reflected in this number). I did a huge 80 gallon home-brew fuge in the stand on that one, lit with CFs, outfitted with RO auto-topups for water and various compounds (I have lots of spare float switches if anyone needs one), and cobbled together a rather novel computer control and testing system. Clearly, I am as much into the toys that keep these biosystems healthy as I am into the inverts inside.

While all the technology made the tank nearly effortless to maintain - like seriously effortless - when I went off to grad school it wasn't nearly so appreciated by my parents, who inherited it, as it cost a fortune in power alone to maintain. So we broke it down and gifted it away and I ruled out keeping anything near so complex and expensive again.

Fast forward to two weeks ago and, resolve weakened from the stunning beauty of snorkeling along the Belizian Barrier Reef for a few weeks, I purchased a 12 gallon DX nano cube "on sale with free stand!"

This then, will be the story of this micro reef. One hopefully much cheaper, simpler, and even easier to run than the last one.

Yeah right.

Here's a view from this AM. Oceanic saltwater, a Koralia nano in the lower left, standard return in the upper right. I have to figure out how to keep the Deflector (currently removed from the return) from moistening the LED lights.
12g Nano 100206_0.png


And here's the LED view. I used a 225x 5mm panel I had laying around - it's not bright enough for coral growth but is more than enough for getting the tank cycled. It's about as bright at the 2x 24w cf setup the tank came with. On the back side of the panel I mounted a 120mm box fan on a 5v Nikon power supply. It lopes around slow and silent-ish, but provides enough positive pressure that there is no condensation on the panel and everything stays cool. The panel is 12" square, and thus it spills into the area I want to fuge-ify. The 36w panel I am working on is 10" and should help me segregate the lighting better.
LED's.png
 
Dumped in 10 lbs of GARF Grunge, a "Bag 'O Bugs", a fleet of reef cleaners and five varieties of macro algae. Tank is clearing slowly.
P1000018.png


LOTS of life in the grunge, interesting things crawling all over the glass, lots of color, tiny stars of some sort - good stuff.
P1000020.jpg


And then there was a big old dead bristle worm, which the hermits are enjoying immensely.
P1000022.jpg
 
yeah, so the halogen-ballast-powered-LED-fuge light things didn't work out. One of the downsides of using stuff found around the house is sometimes it expires early. The IKEA 12v power supply that worked so well while I was testing the new rig died sometime in transport to it's new home. So now I've got to find a lighting solution for the 3" x 4.5" x 12" micro fuge...

-j

Updated... 2/25/10
Put a 12v wall-wart on the halogen-LED mashup and it works brilliantly. Also replaced the "warm 3w LED" with a cool 3w that is much brighter.
Spif!
 
OK. so the cheapie LED panel didn't cut the mustard. It had two problems, chiefly lack of waterprofing but also too uniform a dispersion pattern to have really great ripple effect. The 12" 225 LED panel was also sufficiently large that it precluded being able to segregate the lighting to the back filter portion of the aquarium, where I intend to grow cheato on a reverse cycle.

So, what to do?

Well, I found a really spiffy $150 36 watt LED panel on LEDwholesalers, via Amazon, which had several things I liked going for it:

1. comparatively cheap (tho it's using older LEDs, I believe--so less light than the latest)
2. mounted to aluminum with a flat back (possible to laminate a passive radiator to it, or a fan - more later)
3. 10" square form factor fit the space better
4. 16x 1w 6500*K interspersed with 16x 1w 455-465 nm blue
5. mix of spot lenses on the perimeter and flood lenses in the center

After more than a little dithering, I bought one.

I mounted it in the existing canopy with a small amount of modding, but I wasn't pleased with the results. The LED's ran at over 100*f and because of the small size of the enclosure, I couldn't get good forced air over the panel. So I decided to take a stab at building a canopy.

Build list:
scrap stained, satin polyurethane-clad tulipwood (poplar)
Black Anodized screws
old 120mm computer fan + 5v wall wart
old MR16 base + electronic 12v ballast
scrap plate glass
old RO system tubing
staples + EPDM, rolled for weatherstripping
cyanoacrylate

Results:
Screen shot 2010-02-15 at 11.10.04 PM.png

View of the back. The poplar is planked with large air gaps, across the top. The fan is mounted on pieces of RO tubing to give it an air gap and pulls air through the cracks in the planks. The LED panel is then floated 1/2" over the fan with the air directed on to it. The added advantage of the large gaps in the planking is that I can shine my infrared temp-taker through to the back of the LED panel to make sure it's not getting hot. Ran 78 to 85*f today at all points I could point at.
Screen shot 2010-02-15 at 11.09.53 PM.png

You can _just_ make out a halogen MR16 bulb at the back of the panel. This will be replaced with a 3 watt LED for the refugium. I arranged the lenses so the back row center two of blue are flood, the center two blue are spot, as are the remaining border LED's.
This image is shot through the glass cover, which is EPDM weather-strip sealed down; it's cut to cover the entire display tank portion of the tank. This was taken essentially outside in broad daylight.

Added bonus: It's effectively silent. Meaning that the entire tank is currently almost silent. I like that in an aquarium.
LED-hood-3.jpg


The more direct lighting is really spiffy. Gives great shimmer. This shot was taken in broad daylight. The camera has to really stop the light down. This is the brightest aquarium I have ever had.

Next steps...
Wait for Miami to dig out of their bad weather so the live rock can ship out...
Need to figure out skimming options, since I won't have the middle filter area available.
 
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