High Tide Aquatics

Anyone using a Vectra L1 on a Reefer 250?

SupraSaltyReefer

SupraSaltyReefer

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I know most people use the M1 for the Reefer 250 but found a great deal on a new L1. Bought it. Fits the sump compartment. Now just need to plan the hard plumbing. Anyone ever plumb a L1 to the Reefer 250? Looking for ideas. Where did you buy the parts from? What size pipes? Trying the keep it simple and not too many gate valves. Thanks!
 
Mr2KiEu said:
I need to run at least 3 gate valves. So I can have more control of the flow for the return, reactor, and fuge. Trying to make it look fancy like @RandyC lol
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Oh I see. You want a manifold to supply flow for other devices. Mostly I use ball valves to save money, not usually a need for super minute adjustments for reactor or fuge ...gate valves are not cheap, sounds like you only need two valves tho anyway, no need for one going to the tank imo
Where are you located?
 
Coral reefer said:
Oh I see. You want a manifold to supply flow for other devices. Mostly I use ball valves to save money, not usually a need for super minute adjustments for reactor or fuge ...gate valves are not cheap, sounds like you only need two valves tho anyway, no need for one going to the tank imo
Where are you located?
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Yeah...manifold...that's what I meant. Lol. I'm in Concord. I'll do some more research and buy them online. Been lazy and putting it off for months.
 
Mr2KiEu said:
How come? How do you control the flow than?
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The L1 is a DC pump and you’ll be able to control the flow with the driver (“control box”) or reeflink if you buy it (not required). I used gate valves for my manifold, but that was before I knew any better. You don’t need the fine control of a gate valve for reactors so I’d go ahead and save some money using ball valves . Gate valves should really only be used for drain valves where you need finer control. The only thing I would say though, is that good ball valves (Spears or CPEX) that won’t eventually get difficult to adjust after time are large in size and you’re working with limited space.

You won’t need that much flow in a 250 and you’ll probably run that L1 no more than 30% if not closer to 20%. I’d just take a 1” to 3/4” reducer bushing and run your manifold with 3/4” plumbing. You likely won’t have the space for 1” plumbing and valves in the reefer 250 cabinet.

You’re welcome to come check out my 250 for ideas and some what not to do. PM me and we can arrange a time if you’re interested.

Mr2KiEu said:
I need to run at least 3 gate valves. So I can have more control of the flow for the return, reactor, and fuge. Trying to make it look fancy like @RandyC lol
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Thanks, I’m flattered, but there are far more cooler examples of sumps and manifold configuration and designs that far outshines what I’ve done.
 
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Ewing irrigation over near all about fish Is the nearest place I know of by you for any parts you'll need, including the good ball valves.
 
Following. I’m curious how a manifold works on the reefer with the drain. I worry about having to adjust the drain constantly due to varying flow out of the return...

I have a reefer 250 as well, running the reef octopus varios (2 or 4 can’t remember) with no manifold.
 
I would keep it at 1 inch pvc as much as possible (or even greater straight out of the pump). I have a 3/4 inch manifold, started with M1, switched L1 and the L1 is really limited by the 3/4 diameter. If I turned it up any higher than 30% I would hear a whine. And when I switched back to M1, the output wasn’t that different at the same percentage. So I think the L1 will be significantly limited if most of your manifold is 3/4.


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Gablami said:
I would keep it at 1 inch pvc as much as possible (or even greater straight out of the pump). I have a 3/4 inch manifold, started with M1, switched L1 and the L1 is really limited by the 3/4 diameter. If I turned it up any higher than 30% I would hear a whine. And when I switched back to M1, the output wasn’t that different at the same percentage. So I think the L1 will be significantly limited if most of your manifold is 3/4.


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Might be doable, but it will be real tight with 1” plumbing. It’s already really tight in my reefer 250 cabinet with 3/4” plumbing.
 
sumpwithwater.JPG


1" plumbing on the return line that feeds into the manifold. From there it's reduced down to 1/2" Cepex ball valves. Old pump in the pic. A COR-20 pump now powers it at 30% output.
 
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