Chloramine RO/DI

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by JVU, Jul 7, 2017.

  1. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    Yeah I know you tested at the tap, you also said the RO/DI read zero, which I assume means you tested after it was completely filtered. What I'm saying is unhook right after your prefilters, and test some of the water there to make sure you're getting it all with your carbon blocks before it gets to the RO membrane where it could possible do damage.
     
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  2. JVU

    JVU Supporting Member

    So it sounds like the consensus is 2 carbon filters, at least 1 of which is specifically rated for chloramine or massively oversized, or both. What do you guys think about the BRS universal carbon filter, it is what they recommend for chloramine but it is quite a bit cheaper than the Pentek ChlorPlus filter?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  3. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    Chloramine removal is about contact time. The chloramine monster is a 20" canister that will remove chloramine better since it has more contact time. Plus at its price it will filter 19000 gallons of water according to spec.
     
  4. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    How does a 20" canister provide more contact time? It's been my experience that the prefilters work putting water into the center of the filter and then it squeezes it out radially, so it should be the same amount of total contact time as a 10" filter, the water doesn't flow through 20" of filter (or even 10") just radially from the center which gives it what an inch of contact?
     
  5. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    I think you may have it backwards? I think it flows through the filter to the inside then up through the middle? I could be wrong though.
     
  6. JVU

    JVU Supporting Member

    I think because 1) its also a lot thicker not just longer so longer transit time across, and 2) at a given flow rate for the system a longer filter (greater surface area) will have the water flowing more slowly at each point through the filter material than a shorter filter.
     
  7. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    I'm just going by what brs was saying about the chloramine monster. It's a 20x4" unit compare to the smaller 10" unit. I for sure can say I have 0 total chlorine compare to the smaller 10" units I still get a little break through reason I got paranoid and put 2 20" units back to back and then 2x 10" units essentially my unit is like a 7-8 stage rodi cause I over killed it.
     
  8. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    Do you see much pressure drop?
     
  9. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    No cause I have a booster pump before the membranes.
     
  10. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    Well either way, it flows from the center out, or from the out to the center. The direction of fluid travel through the filter is in the skinny donut direction not the length of it.
     
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  11. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    I can see #2 being true, if you get X gpm through a filter regardless of the size, make it twice the size then water will flow slower through any one part since there's more "pathways" for it to go.

    Out of curiosity which 20" filter? The $160 filter? Part of me feels worried about the 20 micron size when others are in the 1 micron range, wonder if it's different than just a block of carbon that you normally have.

    Doing a bit of googling some chap name AzDesertRat seems to be very much against "specialty" filters, saying most good carbon ones will work fine, and will get chloramines but only the chlorine part of it, the ammonia aspect goes right through and needs to be picked up by DI resin. I seem to recall talking to him years ago as he works in the business, now he's very high on Spectrapure, not sure if that's because he works for them, or he just likes their products. So yeah take it with a grain of salt anyone you hear stuff about on the internet :D
     
  12. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    Reason I have a 1micro sediment Infront, the 20 micron chloramin monster, the 1 micron Chloroplus pentex (20x4") block , then 2 X 1 micron chloroplus 10" block and 1 0.6 micron matrix carbon, before it hits the booster to the two spectrapure 90gpd membrane in series, then it goes through a 20x4 di resin cart and a regular 10x2 Di resin cart. After all this get 0 TDs and 0 free chlorine. And shouldnt have to change carts for thousands of gallons of water. Maybe good for 1.5 year. The di resin in the 20" chamber is solid blue still.

    Holy crap that's 9 stages :)
     
  13. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    Yikes man, it better be good for 1.5 years because if you had to change all that at 6 month intervals...

    That chloroguzzler one says it can do 75,000 gallons. Not too bad, then depending upon your waste water ratio will dictate the total life, I'm guessing Scuzy is in the 3:1 region? so 4 gallons total made, 1 of which is "good" which gives you about 19,000 gallons. Also didn't realize that it was a 4.5" wide filter too as opposed to the 2.5" ones.
     
  14. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    Boaster can only do so much. When those get clogged I don't think it will be able to keep up. What pressure do you get when all are new?
     
  15. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    Without booster 40psi I adjust booster to 60psi
     
  16. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Colorado member

    It's all just a ruse. The water flows straight across the top and barely touches the filter. That's why they appear to last so long.
     
  17. JVU

    JVU Supporting Member

    I considered the chloramine monster but didn't have a good way to plumb it in-line in the right spot in my existing SpectraPure MaxCap 5-stage (first 2 stages are directly connected, no tubing).

    I measured my water output after my existing single SpectraPure 0.5u carbon block which is due to be changed soon and still got no (test-strip measurable) total chlorine/chloramine breakthrough, so at least my current setup isn't totally off-base.

    So I bought a 1 stage canister that I'll put in front of the existing setup for the pre-filter, then 2 carbon blocks at least 1 of which will be BRS universal for chloramine or similar, then on to existing RO and 2 DI cartridges.

    I was also thinking about adding a second RO filter in series to increase production rate and decrease water waste. For those of you who have done this, are you happy with it? I think I'd have to get a pressure booster so I'm not sure its worth it.


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  18. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    Yes I'm happy. Yes it's worth it. Will pay for itself. You get almost double the production from your prefilters. Also you save lots of water!
     
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  19. Gablami

    Gablami Supporting Member

    Yeah it's pretty easy to install too. No reason not to as long as your tds isn't too high.


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  20. RandyC

    RandyC Supporting Member

    Great investment especially for low TDS tap. I'm a just a tad more than 1:1 waste to ro/di ratio after installing another membrane.
     
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