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Seminolecpa's 180G upgrade

seminolecpa

seminolecpa

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Well the rumors are true. I am moving forward with upgrading my current system to a significantly larger tank (see pic below). Am working out the details of the setup but hope to have the tank plumbed and running by year end.

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The tank itself is roughly 180g 5' long x 2' deep by 27" high with external overflows, starfire front and sides and predrilled for a closed loop. Some of you may have seen the tank itself in Max's shop at BAYMAC and I am having him build the stand and canopy. Tony has been helping me design the hood from ideas in my head. Still tweaking the design a bit.

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Here are some of my initial thoughts for various items

Lighting:

2 250W MH's with Luminarc mini reflectors
3 39W T-5's (mostly for color supplementation)
minimum of 2 4" Icecap fans (one on each side of the tank for push pull effect)

Flow:

Since the tank is predrilled for closed loop I am thinking of going with a Sequence Barracuda for the return pump with a Oceans Motion 4 way. I may also do a couple of wavy seas to increase the water motion.

The tank will be plumbed from my garage using my existing setup (65G sump and a 20 gallon fuge). Again as this is still in the ultimate design stages, any comments or lessons learned would be greatly appreciated. I would very much like to do this right the first time vs. having to go back and make things work later on.
 
Out of curiosity why 36" bulbs? I would think you'd really want to do 48" with a tank that's 5 feet wide and the eurobracing from the first pic suggests you won't be blocking any light.

But bravo on the purchase, helping California economy not completely sink into the ocean :

Think about the "power lost" effects if you use those closed loop holes for your return holes, your tank will drain to those levels.

If you need some not-so strong help, let me know when you get it, I can help you move it into position.
 
Good point on both Mike. The 36" bulbs were primarily because that is what I have at this point but you are right the longer bulbs are likely the way to go.

Would the "power lost" effect drop the water to the lowest set of holes or the top set?

Been planning/saving for an upgrade for a while so I am happy to help all I can with the California economy.

I was able to massage a 5' tank into the room with some clever arrangement. Taped it all out and it should fit fine.
 
If you lost power ... AND assuming the OM was water tight between the drum and spinner do-hickey (which IIRC its not quite) you'd drop to the lowest point that the OM port was open to, however I don't think I'd want to play russian roulette that with that thing hoping it'll only be open to the top tank openings should power go out ;)

Remember this is NOT a siphon that'll be draining your tank, it's simply a matter of there's an opening where water can go.

Now you might be able to get away with having your pipes go higher than the tank and "U" back down to the holes, however you'd still have a siphon effect to worry about, and I even though I don't think the OM is water tight inside, I don't know if I'd trust that there's a big enough gap to suck in enough air to break the siphon. Plus I don't know if you want to add that additional head height with the u-turn at the top.
 
Using those closeholes for return is a bad idea. You can use checkvalve so the water doesn't come back down but if anything wrong with the valve, you will have a lot of water on the floor.

I would split the return into two. One on each ends and hook up to a seaswirl or wavysea devices. Use the 2 biggest holes for the closeloop intake and the other four for the outputs Use Union ballvalve for all the intakes and output. You will see why I don't like the closeloop. Too many pipes in the back. But you said you have a lot of room so that wouldn't be a problem.

Oh use really good bulkheads for the closeloop.

When you are going to pick up the tank?
 
[quote author=Elite link=topic=5363.msg66532#msg66532 date=1228096556]
Using those closeholes for return is a bad idea. You can use checkvalve so the water doesn't come back down but if anything wrong with the valve, you will have a lot of water on the floor.

I would split the return into two. One on each ends and hook up to a seaswirl or wavysea devices. Use the 2 biggest holes for the closeloop intake and the other four for the outputs Use Union ballvalve for all the intakes and output. You will see why I don't like the closeloop. Too many pipes in the back. But you said you have a lot of room so that wouldn't be a problem.

Oh use really good bulkheads for the closeloop.

When you are going to pick up the tank?
[/quote]

You go Phong!!! +1
 
Sweet! Congrats and nice score. Don't forget to work a kill switch into the hood so when you open it the 2 t5's cut off so you don't get blinded.
 
my 3 mhs are on track lighting and move forward and backward 6 - 8 in. Really like this feature for cleaning and lighting the tank up just right. ~smile amy
 
Phong,

The way Max was explaining it to me was to use the 2 holes on the top for the intake and the other four for return with the OM 4 way if my understanding is correct. Then use sea swirls or wavy seas for at the back corners which has 1" holes drilled into the bracing. You can faintly see the one on the right in the picture. I would be getting brand new bulkheads that were resealed.
 
So let me get this straight are you guys saying that I would be better off with just a plain old 120 tech tank vs. this one with the bulkheads drilled in the back?
 
If Max never have problem with that, then go for it. I'm only worry that it will suck down air because it's too high. You will have microbubbles if it suck in air. If I do it, I would use the two in the middle for intake and the other four for outputs

I don't think the 1" wavysea/seaswirl output pipe will fit into the holes on the brace. Can Max help you drill it bigger?
 
Heck nada!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You always decide to cap the bulkheads or simply install ball valves for eventual use. Five foot tanks is really sweet!
 
[quote author=seminolecpa link=topic=5363.msg66558#msg66558 date=1228107607]
So let me get this straight are you guys saying that I would be better off with just a plain old 120 tech tank vs. this one with the bulkheads drilled in the back?
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I agree with Eileen. You can always cap them and use the Vortech. You won't be able to see those holes after you put in all the rocks :) ..

The cost for the closeloop would be the same as getting a Vortech or Tunze. You will spend about $300 or more for plumbing if you do closeloop. That is not including the pump. And then the electricity usage is higher compare to the Vortech or Tunze.
 
[quote author=seminolecpa link=topic=5363.msg66562#msg66562 date=1228108063]
People are making me paranoid about the bulkheads leaking. Grounds for an immediate divorce.
[/quote]

Nah.. use good bulkhead and you will be fine...
 
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