Neptune Aquatics

Water quality report

Interesting discussion. Does anyone know if SF is purchasing water from other sources during the drought? If they do it might change the mix enough to be an issue.
 
That's the interesting part, I've never been able to get a positive reading for phosphate at all in my tank - I think I'm using my Hanna meter correctly, but I'm probably going to make a phosphate standard and test it to make sure it's working (and I'm using it) as it should. I do need to test out of my tap though, just haven't done it yet. @anathema - I want people to pull rank on me, that's why I'm asking questions - and will continue to, probably to the point of annoyance :D. I appreciate the response, I've received more feedback and discussion than I anticipated, and that's awesome. One thing that's fun/tricky about this is there seems to be as many ways to do things as there are tanks, so I try to ask folks what they're doing and extrapolate to where I'm trying to go to hopefully minimize my chances of doing something stupid. What you wrote is very useful, and I thank you for it. @bluprntguy, that's exactly what I was thinking; if phosphates are measurable out of the tap, treat with GFO before adding it to the tank. Glad to hear folks have done similar things.

So at this point, I'm going to seriously consider a slow, carefully observed switch over to tap after installing a filter and doing as much testing of my tap water as I can. I'll be sure to post thoughts and observations for those who are interested. And please, I'd love to hear any additional insights or experiences!
 
I can't believe you guys were getting tds readings in the 20's from your tap water. That's amazing. I've read the legal limit is 500 and I get 423 tds from my tap (it's well water if that makes a difference) when I put it through the RO it brings it down to 23 then with the DI I still end up with 2. With your tap water so pure it's no wonder you can simply treat it and put it in. I think I'd kill my whole system if I were to try that.
 
@Flagg37 you might want to look into either changing your filters or making sure you have enough pressure in your system.

I see about 360-380 from my tap, after ro membrane it is 2. After DI it is 0.


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I'll look into it but I don't think that's the problem. I had the RO unit for about 2 weeks before adding the DI to the system and that's when I tested it.

I just tested it right now though, and tap was 306, RO 19, and DI was an 8. Yikes. I think I'll call the manufacturer and see what's up with that. I've only been using it for about a month and a half.
 
Your RODI unit does come with a Pressure guage right?

Read what the Pressure Guage says and let us and them know.

If the pressure is too low, your filters won't function properly, resulting in less than pure water.

A booster pump would increase the water pressure into your RODI unit if needed.
 
Did you flush the setup when you 1st used it for 1-2mins? Do you flush the system each time you use it and right after? Your membrane might be clogged n causing you to use up all your DI quickly.


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It does not have a pressure gauge but the water pressure in our house is quite strong. I've always been a bit worried that the house will spring a leak some time because of too much pressure.

I did flush the system when I installed it.
 
Pressure is crucial, you want 80 psi going into the first stage, 60-65 going into your RO membrane, more will damage things, less will produce less than optimal results.
 
Maybe that's the issue. I'll have to see about getting a regulator. None of the literature from the manufacturer said that there was a max pressure. They only mentioned neededing a pump if it was too low.
 
I don't think you have too much pressure. Household water connections are rated to 80 psi so if you had higher, you will be getting blown hoses.


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I'm on a hill, downhill a few hundred feet (elevation) from a water reservoir and I don't think my main regulator is set correctly. If I don't regulate the input on my system the sediment filters will get 90+ PSI...
 
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