High Tide Aquatics

Wow, really?! ANOTHER FLOOD! GRRR!!! Sooooo angry!

Vincerama2

Vincerama2

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OK, I have a rule that I generally don't break. It's simple "Only fill buckets for RO water in the sink AND put a timer on". So last night, I leave a water jug on the ground, turn on the RO, don't turn on a timer and go play Skyrim for an hour or so because, I just got the kids to sleep and want some mindless alone time... 3 hours later .... ARGH!

The entire kitchen floor is flooded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Punishment for breaking the rules of RO filling!!!!!! Soooo stupid!

Sadly .... it won't be the last time ....

I had to rant ....

I really should rig up a float valve enabled filling device or something ...

Every time I stepped in a puddle, steam would come up from my feet because I was so angry! (Well, not really!)

V
 
ack. i tell myself the same, but i also have a float valve. i still had floods with that (my own fault), so now i make sure the float valve works and i do it in a sink

sorry to hear!!!
 
I think we've all had some form of that mistake!

Cheap insurance, this leak detector from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/water-leak-detector-98461.html

You just have to remember to put it near the RO output. Then you'll just have a small bit of water to clean up!
 
Yep, my sympathies.
I should get some leak detectors though. That is a good idea.

For me, all RODI equipment and salt mixing is outside only, and everything except display tank is
in the garage. Yet......
aquarium_spill.jpg
 
I've done it at least 6 times. The worst part is when you don't realize it until you walk into the room and the carpet goes 'SQUISHHH'.
 
zeroinverse said:
For me buying the BRS auto shutoff valve and float switch hooked into my RODI container is awesome.

It is a 35 gal Rubbermaid garbage can and works great. Set it and forget it. Whenever I drain it, it just makes me more water, ready for whenever I need an emergency water change.
Click to expand...
I have the BRS float switch set-up as well. It works great and its really inexpensive. I leave my RODI turned on and walk away for hours and I've never had the float switch fail to shut it off.
 
For me buying the BRS auto shutoff valve and float switch hooked into my RODI container is awesome.

It is a 35 gal Rubbermaid garbage can and works great. Set it and forget it. Whenever I drain it, it just makes me more water, ready for whenever I need an emergency water change.
2013_%2525206_25_14_41.jpg
 
One of the largest reasons my tanks left the upstairs "livable space" part of the house and are downstairs on the old ass nasty floor in the laundry room/in-law area. Even though I toss a float switch on my RO unit to stop when it gets full, sometimes it doesn't work though... however if I test it by jiggling it a few times it always seems to work, whenever I get lazy and don't give it a couple jiggles for good luck I'll get a flood... such is Murphy's law of reefkeeping!
 
TWO WORDS.
WATER ALARM :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog-High-Water-Alarm-Sump-/330623440599?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cfab156d7

One like this has saved my tank at least once.
 
On the subject of float switches, I had been looking to use them for my RO/DI setup. However, I thought that they would stop all flow. That is, stop the flow of clean water and also the discharge/waste water of the RO unit. But looking at float switches it looks like it only stops the “clean” water flow. So, if you wanted to create an automated system, this would not be the way to go as you’d be wasting water constantly. Is this the case?
 
No. I have a auto shutoff valve. It plugs into the input line of my RODI unit and also plugs to my float switch output. It is a 4 hole valve.

It detects the float switch has stopped flow (I.e small pressure increase indicating stopped flow). This applies pressure to a membrane/switch in the auto shutoff valve (ASV) that forces the input water to RODI to stop.

Note: it takes about 1-3 minutes for your input line to stop. The ASV takes a whole to "power up" to fully stop the input flow. But it does stop eventually.

So with the ASV, I do not worry about the float switch not being able to stop the flow. Because it is the ASV that actually does the work. The float switch is only the low-power switch to power the "high power" ASV (if you understand my electrical analogy).
 
Note that my BRS auto shutoff valve is not reliable.
Sometimes works, but often does not, and sometimes make an interesting humming noise.
I am not the only one with that issue.
Not a big issue since the main concern is wasting water, but not as good as a true solenoid would be.
 
My float switch is attached to a closed state-solenoid on the tap water side of things, mean it takes power to open the switch, when the float switch pops, it kills the power, solenoid shuts off water and stops flowing through the RO system. The fact that the solenoid is made of brass is irrelevant because its on the input side of things and no worse than copper pipes in your house, water doesn't enter the system until after the solenoid.
 
xulio said:
Great. I was looking at more primitive float valves. Thanks for the feedback.
Click to expand...


Just to be clear, xulio, the float valve is primitive. All it does is stop the flow of RO/DI and put back pressure on the shutoff valve. The float valve is attached to the RO/DI waterline and the storage container for said RO/DI water. The shutoff valve is usually mounted on the RO/DI filter. BRS has a great video of the installation.
 
rygh said:
Note that my BRS auto shutoff valve is not reliable.
Sometimes works, but often does not, and sometimes make an interesting humming noise.
I am not the only one with that issue.
Not a big issue since the main concern is wasting water, but not as good as a true solenoid would be.
Click to expand...


Mark,
Did your ASV work reliably when it was new?

I have my waste water going into the pond. I start filtering and sometimes forget it for, oh, a very long time. :)
I'd hate to flood the pond. Now something else to remember to do!!
 
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