Cali Kid Corals

Raising nutrients

Meshmez

Supporting Member
Alright, my N&P are at zero in my display and frag tank. Thought it was cyano just sucking it up in my display, but cyano is gone now and still zero.

I'm working on adding more fish to my display, so I'm sure that will help some, but I intend to keep the frag tank fish less.

I target feed coral frenzy and/or reef chili to the small polyps, and mysis and cyclopod to the bigger stuff..

I'm not running gfo. I do have chaeto and skimmer on the DT. Im running a skimmer on the frag tank, but thinking of turning it off.

What would be the best way to raise the nutrient levels in each tank? Especially the frag tank without fish.

Would dosing something like AB+, aqua vitro fuel or acropower be a good idea?

Yes I have googled it. But I'm interested to know what you folks here have tried and/or think.
 
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I have been considering dosing sodium nitrate to raise nitrates. I found this product that other reefers have used, but I am having a bit of trouble with the calculations.

 
To raise nitrate and phosphate, I've been dosing NeoNitro, Reef Roids and Acropower/AB+.
This is for my fallow display tank until I add fish again.
 
Just feed a little more until you have your target nutrients, or more importantly whatever response you are looking for in your corals.

You don’t need more fish to feed more, other stuff in your tank (CUC, bacteria, etc) will eat it and appreciate it. The only reason people say to feed only what your fish eat in a couple min is to avoid raising nutrient levels too high.

I would only dose a nutrient if it alone is deficient and you trying to bring it back into balance. If all your nutrients are low, just feed a little more.

Also I’d make sure your N&P are actually 0, for example by using the ultra-low range P Hanna checker.
 
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Some corals are starting to pale, and I finally realized it's likely because of lack of nutrients. The weird thing is I'm getting great color from some things and not from others, of similar species, in similar par and flow. I'm assuming I'm in the edge of the bubble so only some are being affected.
Too much protein skimming? Maybe undersize a skimmer? or put it on a timer.
My concern about the timer for the skimmer is ato fluctuations. I figure when it's off water will evaporate but not fill (because water level has risen) then when the skimmer kicks on ato refills the evaporated water, plus the displaced water. Day to day this is probably negligible, over time I would think this would drop salinity. Am I over thinking this?
Just feed a little more until you have your target nutrients, or more importantly whatever response you are looking for in your corals.

You don’t need more fish to feed more, other stuff in your tank (CUC, bacteria, etc) will eat it and appreciate it. The only reason people say to feed only what your fish eat is a couple min is to avoid raising nutrient levels too high.

I would only dose a nutrient if it alone is deficient and you trying to bring it back into balance. If all your nutrients are low, just feed a little more.

Also I’d make sure your N&P are actually 0, for example by using the ultra-low range P Hanna checker.
I'm getting 0.00 on the normal Hanna low range phosphate checker (HI713) while I realize this won't be as accurate as the ULR, I would think it would at least register something?
 
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Some corals are starting to pale, and I finally realized it's likely because of lack of nutrients. The weird thing is I'm getting great color from some things and not from others, of similar species, in similar par and flow. I'm assuming I'm in the edge of the bubble so only some are being affected.

My concern about the timer for the skimmer is ato fluctuations. I figure when it's off water will evaporate but not fill (because water level has risen) then when the skimmer kicks on ato refills the evaporated water, plus the displaced water. Day to day this is probably negligible, over time I would think this would drop salinity. Am I over thinking this?

I'm getting 0.00 on the normal Hanna low range phosphate checker (HI713) while I realize this won't be as accurate as the ULR, I would think it would at least register something?
Yeah, I think you’re over thinking the skimmer. I did a 12hr on/off cycle and didn’t see any change. Maybe if you did it every 5 mins.

Try and sell that checker and get the ULR one. You’ll need it long term.
 
Some corals are starting to pale, and I finally realized it's likely because of lack of nutrients. The weird thing is I'm getting great color from some things and not from others, of similar species, in similar par and flow. I'm assuming I'm in the edge of the bubble so only some are being affected.

My concern about the timer for the skimmer is ato fluctuations. I figure when it's off water will evaporate but not fill (because water level has risen) then when the skimmer kicks on ato refills the evaporated water, plus the displaced water. Day to day this is probably negligible, over time I would think this would drop salinity. Am I over thinking this?

I'm getting 0.00 on the normal Hanna low range phosphate checker (HI713) while I realize this won't be as accurate as the ULR, I would think it would at least register something?

I think the highest it can be if reading 0 is .04
 
Not really, that checker will show zero for anything lower than 0.06..
The range of the test instrument is important. The ULR is for low ranges. I also do not think your po4 is zero. Either use ULR or send an ICP. My money on it's not zero.
 
Watch this vid to understand why range matter. Range and the accuracy matter when you trach the boundary of any test instrument..
 
I understand how the ranges work, and I know in an ideal situation you should have the smallest range around what you want to measure. I don't intend to maintain a ULNS. At the end of the day, I don't really have algae, and the corals are starting to get a little pale. From that my tank is telling me, I have limited nutrients.
 
I understand how the ranges work, and I know in an ideal situation you should have the smallest range around what you want to measure. I don't intend to maintain a ULNS. At the end of the day, I don't really have algae, and the corals are starting to get a little pale. From that my tank is telling me, I have limited nutrients.
All power to you my freind.
 
I'm not trying to be confrontational or anything here. Just trying to work with what I've got. When I bought my Hanna tester I don't think the ULR existed.
My man you do not need to justify. As I said all power to you.
At the end of the day you should do what's best for your reef.
Good luck.
 
You can try feeding a little more and see if it helps coloration, as I mentioned above.

We are all working with the tools we have, all good
 
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