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I do not have more tanks than you my friend. I may have more running, but not possible to have more total tanks than Tu's fish store.

That would be awesome if you had plans on coming up here. That was the only reason I had planned to head to the South Bay.

I'll be heading down in the morning and I can grab it if you want to meet at my place.

Now that it's plumbed and in its new home, I'm planning on filling it to leak test and start its cycle and will add heater, skimmer, UV, calcium reactor, fuge and lights after water is running. And now there's some water!

Introducing the latest to my flock of reef tanks. Why in the world do I need another? 150 Gallon Tank I picked up this tank from @CreAzn at the end of December and have finally got around to start setting it up. First thing was to get a new overflow. I'm not the biggest fan of Synergy Reefs'...

I'm in for two yellow tangs.

Also, Randy Holmes-Farley discusses forms of ammonium and amounts to dose here. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-ammonia-dosing-for-low-nitrate-systems.987087/

Question regarding why it's recommended to dose oxolinic acid in the morning as oxolinic acid is sensitive to light like cipro. While, we don't know how much it actually degrades because of our LEDs (which don't have actual light in the UV spectrum), why not just assume it'd be better at lights...

Well, I'd have to say it's easy to misinterpret what you have said in your previous post.

I'd have to strongly disagree on this advice. Recommendations of just dipping in antibiotics is just not sound as it can led to antibiotic resistance. If you plan to treat with antibiotics, run a full treatment of several days to a week (or more) to ensure whatever you're actually trying to kill...

I'm not a fan of working with Muriatic acid for our purposes. I used to work with Hydrochloric acid in labs and that stuff is not to be messed with. I think the dangerous side of working with it far out weighs the benefits of it. Especially since there are much less caustic options out there...

Acros at night. Love popping on a dim blue light after the room has been dark for a few a hours to see crazy polyp extension on the acros.

First smooth one looks like a porcelain crab. Second is no bueno. Appears to be a gorilla crab.

XR15 & XR30 are the same screw.

Once you have aiptasia, you'll never be rid of it. It just becomes a maintenance task - some require (may) more work than others. ;)

All these values assume that tank CO2 levels are at equilibrium with ambient air. Personally, the first thing I would do is confirm that there is not a gas exchange deficiency in your larger tank before doing anything else.

Very anticlimactic....where's the actual picture! Such a tease.

For alkalinity, 1 meq/L = 1 mmol/L. You can reach a pH of 8.2 only if your co2 concentration in your house is 350-400 ppm and is at equilibrium with your tank. At 6-700ppm of co2 in ambient air, pH max is more like 8-8.1.

Oh, and your point about if alk is buffered correctly there is a max pH that can be achieved, it should be noted that this is possible only if there is an equilibrium of CO2 in the ambient air and in the tank. In the chart below you can see the effect of variable CO2 concentrations in seawater...

Is your surface agitation actually breaking the surface of the water or just "wavy." If it's not breaking the surface, then it's not adding much to gas exchange. Again, I'd recommend turning that skimmer to the highest possible setting and opening the skimmer drain all the way. Even if you have...