License to krill

Ashburn's 187g endgame II

A Aaron

Supporting Member
I installed it first right from the water source which is where they recommend. Some of the booster pumps say they are not for use after the membrane. They need pressure to work and then just boost it. They recommend a different type of pump for just moving the water after the membrane instead of boosting the pressure before.

I would get 38-40 psi but as the first filter got dirty my pressure would drop to 35 at the membrane. Now it makes no difference I get 90psi all the time. BRS put out a video showing how good a membrane functions as far as water production and efficiency of removing solids at pressures I think from 30psi up to 90. I really recommend watching it if your thinking about a booster because you can decide if you think it’s worth it. I think at 50 or 60 psi you get full efficiency of the membrane and after that you just produce water faster. Like I said I make water crazy fast now.
 

Flagg37

Guest
In San Jose my pressure was around 60 psi but here in CO the most I can get is 50. I haven’t been concerned with it since I’m only making drinking water (no DI), but I’ve thought about getting a pump when I set the new tank up.
 
beefed up RODI is full online too, waste water goes to the backyard brutes, i have 3/50g for holding and connected together. Will use those for plants and other stuff. turns out i dont need a booster pump since my water have 50+ psi all the time. maybe add it after produce water so it pulls out water faster?
Google "NPSH Required".
 

Rostato

Supporting Member
I put mine right after the carbon blocks before the membranes. I wanted the long contact time with the filters


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JVU

BOD
Staff member
I put mine right after the carbon blocks before the membranes. I wanted the long contact time with the filters


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Unless I’m not understanding you, I don’t see how that would change contact time with the carbon, which is determined by flow rate not pressure. It’s the same amount of pre-membrane water flowing per unit time through the prefilter and carbon filter whether you have the booster first or between carbon and membrane. The pressure booster isn’t adding water, it’s adding pressure.

I don’t really know what the effect of having the booster after carbon would be, but all RO/DI systems are designed to be positive-pressure driven, not negative pressure driven, which that setup might do. So the boosters are designed to be used first before any filters as far as I know.
 

Rostato

Supporting Member
Unless I’m not understanding you, I don’t see how that would change contact time with the carbon, which is determined by flow rate not pressure. It’s the same amount of pre-membrane water flowing per unit time through the prefilter and carbon filter whether you have the booster first or between carbon and membrane. The pressure booster isn’t adding water, it’s adding pressure.

I don’t really know what the effect of having the booster after carbon would be, but all RO/DI systems are designed to be positive-pressure driven, not negative pressure driven, which that setup might do. So the boosters are designed to be used first before any filters as far as I know.
Great point. Didn’t think of it that way. But I’ve seen many set up this way. In fact I think specterpure does it that way
 

rygh

Webmaster
Staff member
Where do you place the booster
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Usually directly in front of the RO stage, after carbon.
But if you have some sort of valve to automatically stop RODI, that may change things.
 

A Aaron

Supporting Member
I agree the contact time is the same no matter where you put it. Makes no difference. Also brs sells a small easy to clean screen filter you can put before the pump to keep stuff out of it that will damage it. Makes sense though to put it after first filter to keep pump clean.
 

Flagg37

Guest
The reason to put it after carbon is more about keeping crud out of the booster pump.
I like @Coral reefer ‘s idea; kind of a best of both worlds approach. After the first sediment filter would keep the big stuff from going through the pump but would also keep positive pressure instead of negative pressure for the other sediment and carbon filters.
 

ashburn2k

Moderator
Noob moment since the new setup and still getting used to it.

First oops, I accidentally turn off rodi top off to the sump, thinking I’m turning off rodi feed to my salt mix brute. So salinity got bumped up to 1.27 from 1.25, no big deal, I will just let ATO fill up the water slowly and adjust back to normal salinity.

Second oops, my waste water gushed out a lot of water than normally, so I thought there’s some connection was wrongly setup. Didn’t have much time to trouble shoot it, so I just make water with same amount of waste water made for 40-50g, and tonight I finally had time to look hard into it. Turns out I had my rodi in flush mode entire time. Would that damage my membrane stage since I was flushing for a really long period of time?


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Coral reefer

BOD
Staff member
How long? Probably ok since just flushing, but could be rough on it since likely exposed to chlorine/chloramine. Might need to replace carbon block tho
 
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ashburn2k

Moderator
How long? Probably ok since just flushing, but could be rough on it since likely exposed to chlorine/chloramine. Probably need to replace carbon block tho
Everything was new when I set it up, still thinking I need to replace them now ? My out put is at 0 dts


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Coral reefer

BOD
Staff member
Carbon block won’t show in tds. Depends what you use. I use chlorplus 10. I think it’s rated for 1500 gal. That’s total put through, not product. You possibly exceeded that depending how long you left it on?
 
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JVU

BOD
Staff member
Agree with Mike. For the carbon block, you should try to guesstimate how many gallons you flowed through and see if you exceeded the filter rating. Or just change to be careful if you’re not sure.

For the pre-filter, if you can measure pressure drop and don’t see much then it should be fine. Otherwise, it’s cheap to change.

As far as the membrane goes, you can see if it’s still working well by looking at output TDS.
 
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