Cali Kid Corals

Elos 70 AIO Conversion Project

nanoguy

Supporting Member
I was looking into purchasing a 35-50 gallon AIO cube to downsize from my 150 DT. I decided to take a stab at converting an Elos 70 that I had sitting around empty for years and save a few bucks. Here's a quick and dirty build thread of the project.
 

Attachments

  • Elos70.jpg
    Elos70.jpg
    64.9 KB · Views: 31
Test fitting a skimmer my brother hooked me up with. My original plan was to remove the overflow portion of the tank and silicone a piece of glass to the rectangular opening at the bottom corner. This will give me more real estate in the AIO chamber to play with. I removed the finishing "plastic sheet" that covered the overflow to see what I was working with. After closer inspection, I decided against this because I didn't feel like I would be able to create a good seal due to the existing silicone in that area of the opening.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2502.jpg
    IMG_2502.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 25
  • Overflow Cut.jpg
    Overflow Cut.jpg
    71.3 KB · Views: 26
I took some measurements and sketched out how I was going to go about doing the AIO baffles. I started designing the the acrylic panel with the overflow weir/return in Tinkercad. Srt4eric answered my post requesting for a "crusty old tank" and crusty it was.The glass from this tank will be used for the baffles in the AIO chamber.
 

Attachments

  • Tinkecad .png
    Tinkecad .png
    92.8 KB · Views: 20
  • Old Sump.jpg
    Old Sump.jpg
    22.7 KB · Views: 21
Last edited:
I ordered a lower end Toyo glass cutter, cutting oil, and a running plier used to "snap" the glass at the cut line (a must have tool IMO). This was my first time attempting to cut glass and there was a steep learning curve for me. I ruined quite a few pieces, but luckily there was enough glass to make up for all my mistakes.
 

Attachments

  • Running Plier.jpg
    Running Plier.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 17
  • Glass Cutter.jpg
    Glass Cutter.jpg
    34.3 KB · Views: 20
The acrylic sheet needed for this project was going to set me back around $60-$65 and I would have to make all the cuts myself. I decided to source it out to Ponoko (https://www.ponoko.com). All you have to do is upload the appropriate file and they do the rest. Total cost for me came out to a tad over $116 tax and shipping included...not too shabby. Turn around time was around 3 weeks. The test fit turned out perfect so onto siliconing it into place. I applied a 3m Wrap to the side of the tank to cover up the AIO chambers.
 

Attachments

  • Acrylic Installed.jpg
    Acrylic Installed.jpg
    44.5 KB · Views: 21
  • Acrylic Test Fit.jpg
    Acrylic Test Fit.jpg
    106.1 KB · Views: 20
  • 3M Wrap Installed.jpg
    3M Wrap Installed.jpg
    50.2 KB · Views: 20
I let the silicone cure for close to a week prior to filling the tank. I was super anxious to test the layout of the AIO baffles for the first time. Up to this point, it only worked on the primitive sketch I doodled on a piece of paper. I wasn't really sure if the AIO chambers would function properly. All went better than expected...super stoked at this point. I was able to max out my return pump (Jebao Jecod DXP-2500) without running the return chamber dry and had no micro bubbles from the skimmer entering the display (moved the skimmer into display to make some adjustments when I took the pic).
 

Attachments

  • Testing.jpg
    Testing.jpg
    63.7 KB · Views: 21
Last edited:
I tossed one of the rock structures from my 150 into this AIO. I think it looks pretty good as is, but might add a rock or two more to have the structure to really break the surface of the water...maybe. I'm currently running a Kessil a360x tuna blue w/ Reefbrite. My par meter readings with this setup sits around 87-90 at the sand bed and around 230 off one of the overhangs. I'm going to just run this for now until I decide what I will ultimately place in this tank.
 

Attachments

  • Tank3.jpg
    Tank3.jpg
    60.5 KB · Views: 22
  • Tank1.jpg
    Tank1.jpg
    47.5 KB · Views: 22
Last edited:
I was able to find a good use for the decommissioned overflow...MP40 dry end placement. The total thickness of the original overflow along with what I added (glass and acrylic) equates to 1" thickness. Needless to say, the motor is far too heavy to be held in place with just the magnetic strength of the dry/wet side. To my surprise, the wetside had no problems staying secured to the glass. I used one of those sticky/zip tie mounts to hold the motor in place. The vortech works as designed with no issues with the wetside falling off...another win.
 

Attachments

  • Overflow MP40.jpg
    Overflow MP40.jpg
    74.6 KB · Views: 20
Found a piece of finished glass in storage this past weekend and decided to see if I can make one of those AIO sump covers...similar to the ones Red Sea have. I drew up the "brackets" that will hold the glass in Tinkercad and sent the file to the 3d printer. I did a test fit to find out I didn't add the measurements from the glass insert/cutouts back to the overall dimensions of the bracket. 6.5 hours of printing and the cost of the resin down the drain. My next print should be good to go.
 

Attachments

  • Bracket1.jpg
    Bracket1.jpg
    27.8 KB · Views: 22
  • Test_fit_1.jpg
    Test_fit_1.jpg
    41.6 KB · Views: 20
  • Test_fit_2.jpg
    Test_fit_2.jpg
    85.3 KB · Views: 19
Last edited:
Back
Top