Reef nutrition

Kinetic 126G Peninsula

kinetic

Supporting Member
Status: Planning Stage

Update 2: July 20, 2020


How should I maintain this first post? I think once I get things settled, it'll just contain the absolute *latest* FTS and status.

Just ordered the ELOS 120XL with left drain and absolute stand (white steel + white pvc panels). I need to get my garage floor finished (epoxy) and then I'll have them ship it over. I'll temporarily setup the stand in the garage to start planning custom sump, equipment, plumbing etc. I have a ton of time before the tank will actually be running (12 months?) but this will let me take my time and do things right.

I might, however, get a QT tank setup soon so I can cycle it and start doing some invert/coral quarantines early.

Update 1: July 7, 2020

And so it starts. A new tank journal, except this tank is probably going to take at least a year to actually get setup. I will start it with all new (dead) sand and marco rocks, then TTM my existing fish into it. This will come right after my home remodel is done, which is why it'll take awhile. Also the lead times on these tanks is going to be a year too probably, so might as well get started now.

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Setup Details

Tank

  • ELOS 120XL - 48"x30"x20"
  • QuietDrain - left corner
  • Absolute Stand (white steel / white pvc) peninsula
Sump
  • Custom Sump (TBD)
  • Return pump: Royal Exclusiv RD3 Mini
  • Manifold pump: Reef Octopus VarioS-4 (UV/Chiller)
Filtration
  • Fleece Roller: Red Sea Reef Mat 500
  • Skimmer: Ultra Reef Akula UKS-160
  • Skimmer Neck Cleaner: Avast Swabbie 6"
  • Skimmate Container: Avast Davy Jones Locker Large
  • Algae Scrubber - Icecap PRO Medium (29 watt)
  • Aqua UV - 25 watt classic uv sterilizer + Neat Aquatics clamps
Lighting
  • ReeFi Uno (2x)
  • AI Hydra Hanging Kits (I like the look of these)
Controller and Dosing
  • Neptune A3 Apex Pro
  • Neptune Trident
  • Neptune DOS (x2)
  • Neptune ATK
  • Neptune FMM (x2) for ATK, reservoir, return pump variability
  • Neptune OS-1 sensors for ATK, reservoir and low return chamber water
Flow
  • Maxspect XF350 (x2) with nemguards
Mixing
  • BRS 5-stage RODI
  • 20 Gallon Ace Roto-Mold vertical tank for RODI
  • 20 Gallon Ace Roto-Mold vertical tank for mixing
  • VarioS-4 mixing pump
  • 150watt Jager Heater (x2)
Food
  • Avast Plank Feeder (12x a day every 2 hours, small amounts. Hope this satisfies genicanthus, anthias, and porcelain crabs)
  • Avast's reef food + TDS pellets + spirulina and anything else that'll go into the plank feeder (suggestions?)
  • Nori on a clip for the tang
House Support
  • Floor to support 2700lbs + under tank
  • Ceiling will have supports added for hanging the lights
  • Two dedicated 20A circuits with GFCI receptacles behind tank and one in the ceiling for the lights. Outlets will be 20" above floor for safety.
  • RODI line under the floors from my RODI unit for filling my reservoir in the stand. I may have them pull 3x RODI 1/4" lines just in case.
  • 2x Ethernet CAT6 cables under the floor with receptacles behind tank (next to outlets) so I can connect Apex to my router. One redundant one just in case
  • Blackout curtain that is "Alexa" controlled that is tucked up in the ceiling. When I'm watching TV I can have it come down and block the tank from glaring on the TV. It won't be perfect since the light will bounce elsewhere, but it'll help a lot. Suggestions are welcome! The curtain will probably just be a blackout blind with a motor, and will be 4 inches wider than the tank (34") and will end just 4" below the bottom of the tank
Fish

Planning on ordering from @under_water_ninja and as many captive bred as possible

  • Clownfish (2)
  • Orchid Dottyback — ORA captive bred (2)
  • Lyretale anthias Pseudanthias squamipinnis (5)
  • Bellus Genicanthus (2)
  • Chalk Bass Serranus tortugarum (5)
  • Purple Tang Zebrasoma xanthurum Biota (1)
  • Orange Stripe Prawn Goby Amblyeleotris randalli (2)
  • Tailspot Blenny Ecsenius stigmatura (1)
  • Starry Blenny Salarias ramosus (1)
  • Geometric Pygmy Hawk Plectranthias inermis (2)
Coral
  • Shades of Fall
  • Hawkins Echinata
  • Walt Disney Tort
  • Blue stag of some sort
  • Red Robin
  • Sunset Monti
  • anything else I eventually find
Inverts
  • Magnifica Anemone
  • A few BTAs (I'll probably eventually get a CSB for the heck of it, and then I'm totally going to DBTC that mofo because I hate how this anemone is so expensive and inaccessible)
  • Trochus Snails (8)
  • Cerith Snails (20 or something)
  • Tonga Fighting Conch (1 or 2)
  • Scarlet Hermit (1, just for fun. I've had the same one for so long)
  • Zebra Hermit (1, hope my current one makes it to the next tank)
  • Porcelain Anemone Crabs for the BTA's
  • Acropora crabs if I can find some for the SPS
  • Pistol shrimp for the Randalli pair.
Rock / Sand
  • Tropic Eden Mesoflakes Sand (1.5" or so short sand bed)
  • Custom @jestersix aquascape
 
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kinetic

Supporting Member
Tank
Currently leaning towards the ELOS 120XL if they can customize the QuietDrain into the left corner instead of the right... otherwise I'm just doing a full custom Reef Savvy. I know the lead time is like a year, but that will be just fine for me. It's also costly AF, but I think this might be my final dream tank (that's what we always say), so I might as well splurge.

I'm waiting on ELOS to see if they'll respond to my request. They did say it was doable, so now I just need to get the quote and get the process started. If for some reason they say no, I have an estimate pending with Reef Savvy. These two companies are also pretty slow to respond! If Reef Savvy falls through, then I'll probably take my chance with CDA and just make sure to triple check seams etc.

Mixing Tank
I've never really had a real mixing tank setup. Just an RODI reservoir. Any suggestions would be great!
  • BRS 5-stage RODI
  • 55 Gallon Ace Roto-Mold vertical tank for RODI
  • 20 Gallon Ace Roto-Mold vertical tank for mixing
  • VarioS-4 mixing pump
  • 150watt Jager Heater (x2)
Process
  1. 55 gallon tank will always be full of RODI just in case
  2. Open valve to gravity feed into 20 gallon mixing tank
  3. Add salt to 20 gallon tank
  4. Turn on mixing pump (I have a few spare VarioS 4, which is why I'm using that)
  5. Turn on heaters to get water closer to temp
  6. Siphon out 20 gallons total from display tank and sump
  7. Pull tube from 20g tank to the display tank (it actually won't be too far away, the tanks will be same level, tube will be like 20' long though) and fill
Question:
I need accurate 20 gallons to be added (for salinity reasons). Will this be reliable? Or do I need a bigger tank and carefully add water in?
Support
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
I would do the same size for mixing if you have the space. 55 and 55.

I *could* make space, but gravity-wise I couldn't get the other 55 to fill. I could also get two 20 gallon tanks and stack them with a shelf. I'll use my current 55g to store RO water for emergencies (like human emergencies, such as water shutoff in the city for whatever reason).
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
Here are my flow options (this is the short end of the tank that's against the wall). It's all sized correctly too. 30" wide, 20" tall.

ELOS 120XL with Gyres/Vortechs
ELOS 120XL with Gyres.jpg
ELOS 120XL with Vortechs.jpg


Reef Savvy with 21" ghost overflow:
Reef Savvy 21_ Ghost.jpg
Reef Savvy 21_ Ghost Vortechs.jpg


Reef Savvy with Modular Marine 12" overflow:
Reef Savvy 12_ Modular Marine.jpg
Reef Savvy 12_ Modular Marine Vortechs.jpg


Still not too sure if I'll go with the gyres or vortechs. The cables being "inside" the tank aren't that big of a deal for me with the gyres. You'll see the cables regardless. I think, however, I'll go with the much smaller Modular Marine overflows. It will look a lot better. A little less surface skimming, but I think it'd be fine. The 12" handles 1200gph, and my return will just be a VarioS-4 so that'll be, at most, 1000gph.
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
Here are my sump/stand options. Either going with a Trigger 34 or 39. I think the 39 could fit and give a little more breathing room, but the 34 fits like a glove. The extra 5" doesn't do too much, but might be nice to have. Also, there will be doors on both sides of the stand so I can easily access everything.

Stand footprint with Trigger 34.
Stand Footprint with Trigger 34.jpg


Stand footprint with Trigger 39

Stand Footprint with Trigger 39.jpg


Not pictured is a 5G ATO Reservoir that I'll have above the chiller (via a small shelf I'll build over the top).

Here's a look at that "left" wall:
Left Side.jpg


I'll have a ADJ 8-plug outlet on the side above the Trident. Then stacked DOS and a simplicity reservoir for my ALk/Ca/Mg. I'll add some Neptune OS-1 optical level sensors into the reservoir to connect to the DOS. I'll have an extra DOS pump for... who knows what.

And here's the controller board:
Controller Board.jpg


Of course things will change as I get things setup. I'm also not sure if I have the full interior stand space, but there's some buffer. The stand will be steel with cabinetry wrapped around it.
 
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richiev

Supporting Member
Here are my sump/stand options. Either going with a Trigger 34 or 39. I think the 39 could fit and give a little more breathing room, but the 34 fits like a glove. The extra 5" doesn't do too much, but might be nice to have. Also, there will be doors on both sides of the stand so I can easily access everything.

Stand footprint with Trigger 34.
View attachment 40039

Stand footprint with Trigger 39

View attachment 40040

Not pictured is a 5G ATO Reservoir that I'll have above the chiller (via a small shelf I'll build over the top).

Here's a look at that "left" wall:
View attachment 40041

I'll have a ADJ 8-plug outlet on the side above the Trident. Then stacked DOS and a simplicity reservoir for my ALk/Ca/Mg. I'll add some Neptune OS-1 optical level sensors into the reservoir to connect to the DOS. I'll have an extra DOS pump for... who knows what.

And here's the controller board:
View attachment 40043

Of course things will change as I get things setup. I'm also not sure if I have the full interior stand space, but there's some buffer. The stand will be steel with cabinetry wrapped around it.
Very detailed! When you say left wall and controller board, are you planning to have physical separation between water and electronics? Maybe the controller board serves as that? That's on my required list after having too many near misses on my current, highly constrained, setup.

Also since you're going custom, have you considered the extruded AL route? Similar openness to steel, but easier ability to attach stuff to the beams (such as the controller board). It in theory allows you to later restyle your stand too, such as for me I was planning on having an extruded AL stand sized for the tank (stand being 48x24x30ish) and then ordering an additional set of AL which I could use to create a 12in extension on the front side of my peninsula. I then could decide once it's in my room if I want it 48in long or 60in long. Or I guess any size in between because I can just cut the AL, including if I decided to make the stand shorter.

I just like the theoretical flexibility of the AL, for basically the same price. However then you still need to skin it, at which point you're likely monetarily locked into stand dimensions for awhile.

Also also, are you going to build up a wood cover to hide the overflow and piping, or leave it exposed? I originally was going to go exposed, but I think I'll probably hide it. That's another nice option to the AL, since I could just build another AL box on the back and bolt it to the stand, and wrap it all in wood. Just have the sides pop off if needed. That also could serve as the support for a bar to hang lights from (my ideal vision was hanging pendant lights, but I'll probably compromise and do ap9x'es because I think they look nice).
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
Plan the aqua scape, then buy the powerheads. The scape you end up with will help dictate the flow needed.
That's a good piece of advice. I'm pretty sure I know how it'll look so the powerheads should be good. I'll only know once I actually get everything in. I'll most likely either start with a pair of maxspect or vortechs and go from there. I think either will probably do the job just fine, so maybe it's all about the sound? I remember my old MP40s were pretty quiet, and maxspect gyres when they're not fully revved up are pretty quiet as well.

My Nero 3 pumps I have my in Reefer 170 are damn near dead silent though. No Nero version will be big enough unfortunately.
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
Very detailed! When you say left wall and controller board, are you planning to have physical separation between water and electronics? Maybe the controller board serves as that? That's on my required list after having too many near misses on my current, highly constrained, setup.

Also since you're going custom, have you considered the extruded AL route? Similar openness to steel, but easier ability to attach stuff to the beams (such as the controller board). It in theory allows you to later restyle your stand too, such as for me I was planning on having an extruded AL stand sized for the tank (stand being 48x24x30ish) and then ordering an additional set of AL which I could use to create a 12in extension on the front side of my peninsula. I then could decide once it's in my room if I want it 48in long or 60in long. Or I guess any size in between because I can just cut the AL, including if I decided to make the stand shorter.

I just like the theoretical flexibility of the AL, for basically the same price. However then you still need to skin it, at which point you're likely monetarily locked into stand dimensions for awhile.

Also also, are you going to build up a wood cover to hide the overflow and piping, or leave it exposed? I originally was going to go exposed, but I think I'll probably hide it. That's another nice option to the AL, since I could just build another AL box on the back and bolt it to the stand, and wrap it all in wood. Just have the sides pop off if needed. That also could serve as the support for a bar to hang lights from (my ideal vision was hanging pendant lights, but I'll probably compromise and do ap9x'es because I think they look nice).
What's AL?

The left wall is just the left wall of the inside of the stand. It'll be wood, so I'll just screw the things into it. The trident will probably just sit on the bottom though.

The controller board will be a floating piece of wood that I'll mount with some swinging hinges. Not exactly sure how it'll work yet, but it's going to be moveable. I think there is some danger with water splashing so I might try to section it off somehow. The controllers are on the other side, but yes, the energy bar will be facing the sump. I could reverse it, but then it won't look as nice (which I guess is OK). I would need to swing the board open to get to the controllers.
 

richiev

Supporting Member
What's AL?

The left wall is just the left wall of the inside of the stand. It'll be wood, so I'll just screw the things into it. The trident will probably just sit on the bottom though.

The controller board will be a floating piece of wood that I'll mount with some swinging hinges. Not exactly sure how it'll work yet, but it's going to be moveable. I think there is some danger with water splashing so I might try to section it off somehow. The controllers are on the other side, but yes, the energy bar will be facing the sump. I could reverse it, but then it won't look as nice (which I guess is OK). I would need to swing the board open to get to the controllers.
Extruded Aluminum / T-Slot / 8020 Aluminum are all overlapping terms for these stands. Framingtech is an online seller of them, there's a lot of different sellers though.

Tidal gardens did a video on them (I haven't watched this all though):


There's a bunch of threads out there about them, including show yours off threads.

The actual external view doesn't matter in those threads, since presumably you'd wrap it in wood of some sort. It's functionally similar to a steel stand, or even the basic wood outline. The main differences are AL is light compared to its strength, and that because of the way the AL pieces are made (extruded with a slot in them), to connect them you use simple little connectors which are basically just bolts with funny shaped nuts.

You attach the pieces of AL together with simple connectors. You attach wood panels or doors to the AL pieces with similar little mounting brackets. You can just add/remove/move shelves by adding brackets and loosening/moving/tightening bolts with an little wrench. No welding. No screwing together wood frames.

It also will therefore ship in a small kit that you just put together (or presumably could have someone put together). Not quite Lego simple, maybe closer to erector set.

With a 48in long tank you only need the 4 vertical supports, so I'm not sure what the downside is versus steel, besides maybe a minimal cost difference. Well, the main downside is likely making sure whoever you'd have build the skin for the steel stand will do the same for an AL one.
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
@richiev oh wow, I did see threads on r2r recently about it but never actually went into them. That looks pretty interesting. The video guy talks about needing to go through a design firm to make sure the weight etc. will work. I'll check Framingtech. Might be a good alternative if Reef Savvy doesn't make stands (so far they've only given me tank quotes and won't give me a straight answer about their stands or if they will even make them).
 

richiev

Supporting Member
@richiev oh wow, I did see threads on r2r recently about it but never actually went into them. That looks pretty interesting. The video guy talks about needing to go through a design firm to make sure the weight etc. will work. I'll check Framingtech. Might be a good alternative if Reef Savvy doesn't make stands (so far they've only given me tank quotes and won't give me a straight answer about their stands or if they will even make them).
Framing tech will do the design for you. I don't think they charge anything for it. I had them send me a quote and design that I haven't executed on.

This thread though is getting me convinced to just order the stupid stand & tank already though :). I can forward you the conversation I had with them and also ones with SCA / CDA if you'd like. Just message me an email address
 

richiev

Supporting Member
Another option I found in my spreadsheets for the stand you might be interested in is the Fiji Cube 108 with Corner Overflow and there's also a tank + stand option. Low Iron. 48x24x22.5. Dual drain. Single return.

That actually fits my space very well, and may now be near the top of my list, though I was leaning towards external overflow. I don't understand how they have an overflow with a weir with top/middle/bottom setup. I'll have to research that some to understand.
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
Another option I found in my spreadsheets for the stand you might be interested in is the Fiji Cube 108 with Corner Overflow and there's also a tank + stand option. Low Iron. 48x24x22.5. Dual drain. Single return.

That actually fits my space very well, and may now be near the top of my list, though I was leaning towards external overflow. I don't understand how they have an overflow with a weir with top/middle/bottom setup. I'll have to research that some to understand.

That one looks pretty nice. I'm definitely looking for a stand that's steel based for strength/longevity and I guess a custom stand maker would be needed (I haven't found any locally that are good). I don't think the Fiji sumps will work for what I want either, so I'd probably get the tank only. At that point I might as well just get an ELOS 120XL, since it'll come with the steel stand or get a custom.

I don't know much about Fiji branded tanks.
 

richiev

Supporting Member
That one looks pretty nice. I'm definitely looking for a stand that's steel based for strength/longevity and I guess a custom stand maker would be needed (I haven't found any locally that are good). I don't think the Fiji sumps will work for what I want either, so I'd probably get the tank only. At that point I might as well just get an ELOS 120XL, since it'll come with the steel stand or get a custom.

I don't know much about Fiji branded tanks.
Good call on the ELOS being similar. For my space the overflow being in the particular corner the Fiji is in is what's more compelling. I would want it in the top left corner (when looking from the top), whereas the ELOS is the top right. I imagine that'd be custom swappable though.

Make sense though.
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
Good call on the ELOS being similar. For my space the overflow being in the particular corner the Fiji is in is what's more compelling. I would want it in the top left corner (when looking from the top), whereas the ELOS is the top right. I imagine that'd be custom swappable though.

Make sense though.

This is exactly what I'm waiting on ELOS for. They told me that I can customize where the overflow is. So I'm just waiting on a response to order one with the overflow on the left corner because that's where I want it as well. If they can make one on the left corner, I'm buying.

I'm also considering a Reef Savvy, but their customer support emails are pretty lacking. I asked them about a custom stand but they never responded to that question.

At this point I'm getting radio silence from both ELOS and Reef Savvy, but I'm guessing they're busy so I'll give them a couple more weeks?
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
@richiev I think the "weir" is just outlets of the return on the Fiji 108. I think it's split into three zones for better flow. I think if you're using powerheads etc. it doesn't matter as much. ELOS tanks now have two outlets, one on top and one on the bottom. The QuietDrain is designed so you can push like 3,000gph through it, so you could theoretically use it as one main "flow" source if you really wanted to.
 

kinetic

Supporting Member
Status Update:

ELOS
Still waiting on a final quote and if they can do the QuietDrain customization location
  • 120 XL
  • QuietDrain on left
  • Absolute stand (white frame, white pvc) in peninsula style (doors each side, otherwise the back is just open)
  • Residential delivery + lift gate
Reef Savvy
They seem to be very slow at responding, but also when they do they only answer 1 question out of the 5 I have. Kind of tedious and slow.
  • 48"x30"x24"
  • Rimless, black silicon
  • Modular Marine 12" overflow (I'm seeing if they'll install this for me instead of their ghost overflow)
  • Phantom bottom
  • Armored Seams (maybe, not sure how these look in real life)
  • Custom Stand (no idea if they make stands, they've avoided this question)
  • Basic drain/return plumbing (also not sure if they'll include this)
Crystal Dynamics
I know there were a lot of issues with them from others, but I'll give it a chance. They're a lot better at responding which I really like. If I just get radio silence from the above two, I might go with CDA after all and just do a really thorough inspection of the tank. Maybe I can go through @robert4025 for even more assurance that the tank is going to last and isn't messed up?
  • 48"x30"x21"
  • Rimless, black silicon
  • Starboard bottom (glad they offer this)
  • Custom stand with walnut laminate cabinetry (matches my other walnut furniture!)
  • Modular Marine 12" overflow
  • Basic bean animal plumbing
 
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