Reef nutrition

Max’s dry 90 cube tank and frag tank

max_nano

Supporting Member
Eventually I want to copy the tank my parents had when I was growing up and do nem focused with some euphylia and softies. I think the colors and movement from anemones is so interesting and unique.
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NanoCrazed

Supporting Member
Those are like flashlights they’re so bright! Are they held hostage in a bin in your frag tank?


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Thanks!

These are supernovas from my ELOS 70. I wanted to clean my rocks of slime algae, and maybe rescape during lock down... so catching them when the move... 7 caught, 5 more to go! :)
 

max_nano

Supporting Member
Well I came home to a bit of chaos last night. While I was at my SO’s apartment I accidentally had left the ATO outlet off on my Apex because I had cleaned out pellets that fell into the reservoir. When I came back after being gone 2-3 days there was still enough water to go over the overflow, but the pump was sending massive amounts of bubbles into the tank. I checked the salinity and it was roughly 36.5-37ppm (I was in a panic and can’t fully recall). I wasn’t too worried because the fish were all swimming which is my main priority and I know they can handle even higher salinity.

I carefully started turning the ATO on for a few seconds to add some water and drop the salinity .1 or .2 ppm checking with my Hanna checker. I did this over an hour or two until my water was back up to the correct water level. I am now at 36ppm and am going to do water changes with the water mixed to normal salinity. I’d rather not shoot the salinity down by mixing a lower salinity batch, especially with my somewhat low total water volume of 43 gal.

As my previous posts have said I am dealing with some type of issue that I believe is 0 nutrients and I believe I’ve lost some sps and lps from this. I am most disappointed with the loss of my very average purple and green blasto, mostly because it was one of my first corals in the 10 gal and it has been sad to watch it’s tissue recede. I have also been watching my purple stylo lose polyps as well, luckily I have 2 frags on my frag rack that are doing ok. The euphylia, zoas, nems, trachy, Goni, nepthea, and even the digi and encrusting monti are doing well so I’m grateful to not have a tank full of sadness, just a few frags.

While I work on my bigger tank build and continue to plan how I’ll move out of my college housing my goal is to continue to dial in stability and learn more. At about 6-7 months into the hobby I am certainly proud of the success I’ve had, yet still disappointed in some of the setbacks I’ve faced.
 

max_nano

Supporting Member
After a solid 3 month run the tank is arranged to be sold as I move on to the next tank. I might just keep this thread since it’s so new and I’ll change the name. After the work I’ve done, this next tank will be around much longer hopefully


Here’s a sneak peak at the next build, it’s a 30x30x24 glass tank with a grey pvc bottom. The bottom is drilled for a closed loop and I’ve currently gotten it dry fitted to have 2 jebao dct 15000 for roughly 8000gph before head loss. I’m going to be sending that flow out through 4 RFG nozzles and hopefully will be able to hide the plumbing. The glass is clear on 4 sides so no accessories on the glass will be a clean look hopefully. I still have a lot to do but I’m excited to finally have the tank on the stand and somewhat plumbed, at least as much as I could do before running out of pipe!

I’m hoping to bring everything over from the current tank, but I’m going to spend more time planning my end goals for the tank and deciding which corals I want to continue caring for, I’m leaning towards more ‘hardy’ corals as I expect to be traveling for work.

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max_nano

Supporting Member
Tell me those pumps are going to be in some kind of a water tight bin or something. Please.
Oh yes, and that isn't the final shelf, just something to hold the pumps up while I line up the return plumbing. I want to do something independent of the stand so the vibration of the pumps isn't amplified. With the 5 holes at the bottom of my tank I am going to do a drip tray and flood alarm and I might enhance it with a pump and a water sensor so if any water leaks I can hopefully pump it to a drain. The holes are close enough to each other that I should be able to fit the pumps and a in case of emergency leak collection within the footprint of the frame, I am going to have the sump somewhere else obviously since it won't fit
 

max_nano

Supporting Member
I tried out the macro lens from the polyp lab lens kit and got some neat shots! The torch and Goni always look unique with the flow all off. The rainbow trachy colors have really been popping recently I love the pink and green rim, I’m getting a little nervous about moving with it though, so if anyone is interested pm and we can make a deal.
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max_nano

Supporting Member
I started scaping the 90 cube. I’m waiting to fill it until I get corner gussets from tnutz because the 8020 designer said I didn’t need them, but $20 for piece of mind can’t hurt. I was able to push the stand a little more than I’m comfortable with.
I’m excited to see it coming together, I still need to figure out how I want to arrange all my closed loop outlets, my main priority is making them accessible for maintenance while still making them hard to see which is a difficult balance.
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max_nano

Supporting Member
I like that you’re going closed loop. Gonna Be bare bottom?
Yes that’s my plan. That way I don’t need to worry about blowing sand around with the heavy flow, or risk getting sand in the pumps. I might use coral rubble like they did in the big display at Neptune, but just a minimal covering to allow coral to grow on yet still be removable. I have some rubble in the back corner of my current tank for mushrooms and I think that would look better than just the bare grey bottom. But that can be a detritus trap so I might just leave it bare and try to grow coral on the bottom
 

max_nano

Supporting Member
I placed my first order with aliexpress recently to pick up two 470nm 21” led bars which is the same spectrum as reefbrite led bars. They definitely are very blue but with the g4 pro I’ll be using I should be able to adjust it with enough whites.
I’m on the list for the par meter so I can test these before I put any corals under them, but since the tank is dry I can handle the long wait. I put them on my net of the current tank to see the color and how it impacts the coral and I’m a big fan, it’s very blue but the corals really pop.

just the ai prime:
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With the aliexpress 470nm led strips:
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max_nano

Supporting Member
Tested the 170 today with Red Sea kit and Hanna checkers

Alk: 9.5 (Hanna and confirmed with Red Sea
Ca: 495 (Red Sea)
Mg: 1580 (Red Sea)
Phosphorus ULR: .9ppm (Hanna)
Salinity: 37ppt (Hanna)

Salinity is still high from the ATO failure I had recently. I’m going to do a 5 gal wc today with 34ppt water, I am being cautious to not drop the salinity too quickly. Everything is looking good besides the montis which have sporadic patches of extended polyps.

I recently released the nems while I continue to remove corals for the impending move and my biggest one is currently teamed up with a hermit and one of the sexy shrimp as it works to climb its way to the top of my rock work. I may have to adjust my return nozzles so there is a safe distance between the nems and the inlet on the rfg nozzles.
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max_nano

Supporting Member
Water change didn’t drop the salinity very much which makes sense because I didn’t mix the new water at that low of a salinity and it was 5 gal which is roughly 12%. I am now slowly removing salt water and letting the ATO replace it with freshwater. I’ve dropped about .4ppt in the past 30 min and will probably continue at a slower rate until I get the salinity is back closer to 35ppt
 

Coral reefer

BOD
Staff member
Water change didn’t drop the salinity very much which makes sense because I didn’t mix the new water at that low of a salinity and it was 5 gal which is roughly 12%. I am now slowly removing salt water and letting the ATO replace it with freshwater. I’ve dropped about .4ppt in the past 30 min and will probably continue at a slower rate until I get the salinity is back closer to 35ppt
I would do like a 1/2 gal or a gal water change with just fresh water. Sounds like you figured this out already.
Did you mean .9 or .09 phosphate? Is it a units thing I’m not getting cause of you ulr checker?
 

max_nano

Supporting Member
I would do like a 1/2 gal or a gal water change with just fresh water. Sounds like you figured this out already.
Did you mean .9 or .09 phosphate? Is it a units thing I’m not getting cause of you ulr checker?
salinity is down to 35.5 now, I just have been pulling a few cups of salt out and letting the ATO do its thing every 20 minutes or so for the past 3 hours.
I looked into it more and the phosphate checker I got is for lower nutrient tanks than mine, I bought it because I was worried it would be too low for the other one. So my phosphate is >.9ppm. So I’ll probably run my fuge light longer again, I had turned it down because I thought the system was lacking nutrients.
I have a doser coming for the new build so I’ll be able to experiment with it on my current tank, I might dose the Red Sea AB+ (Aminos) since it can be out of the fridge for a week and some all for reef
 

ofzakaria

Supporting Member
I tried out the macro lens from the polyp lab lens kit and got some neat shots! The torch and Goni always look unique with the flow all off. The rainbow trachy colors have really been popping recently I love the pink and green rim, I’m getting a little nervous about moving with it though, so if anyone is interested pm and we can make a deal.
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That trachy is dope. Take care of it, its nice specimen.
 
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