Jestersix

MD’s 50 Gallon Low Boy

No cons in having a manifold for GFO and Carbon, besides $ and space in your sump. The issue you will have with running a UV from the manifold is water circulation. One gate valve will be used for water coming into the UV, the outflow will either go back into your sump or you will have to connect it to one of the other gate valves. The flow of water from the UV isn't getting circulated properly throughout your system.

Do you plan on keeping lots of fishes in your frag tank? If not, than a UV probably isn't needed.
No I don’t plan on having lots of fishes. I looked into it some more after your reply yesterday and I didn’t even think about how even with the gate valve the flow would fluctuate depending on the other things plugged into the manifolds. Should I reduce the manifold down to 2 for GFO and Carbon or keep it at 3 in case I need some other type of reactor later on. TBH I don’t even know what kind of reactors are out there other than carbon and GFO
 
Alright guys. This plumbing has been a lot of trial & error. I had everything how I wanted and glued everything together and… had a couple of leaks. Thankfully I had enough pipe between fittings to use couplers so in the end although not the cleanest, it all worked out. Went through leak testing today and thankfully we’re all clear. Now I just have to add some supports for the plumbing now that everything is in its final place. After that onto draining the tank, moving it into its final position, then filling up with saltwater and get running. I think I’m going to go with a custom lid to fit over the top. Then I have to figure out the lighting situation. I have two spare Nicrew 150W I can use but need to figure out the mounting situation because this tank has a rim. Either way I wouldn’t be able to mount lights on the tank because I went with a 22” weir box and that would leave the lights hanging too far off to the sides of the tanks. I saw a couple of build threads where people use extruded aluminum to mount lights and looked super cool… I’m going to look into that.
 

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Based on this, @MarcosDelgado0 let me ask Telegraham about it too see what he recommends
Following along, as I have the same lights, I haven't ran the 150s longer than an hour only to get par readings. I have a 50 watt, On my im15 i've run several months no issues however. I'm hoping this isnt a issue with the power supplies for the 150s they are $50 bucks wouldn't be fun needing to replace those.
 
@MarcosDelgado0 I have two Nicrew 150s over my IM50. Haven't had any issues and everything is growing great. Excellent lights for budget builds in my inexperienced opinion.

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Beautiful tank! I am going to end up running the Nicrews just gotta figure out how to mount them because they can’t be mounted to the tank with my current setup. The two I have are running on the dart frog tank in my living room which is complete overkill, so I’ll switch those out with some basic plant growing LEDs
 
Beautiful tank! I am going to end up running the Nicrews just gotta figure out how to mount them because they can’t be mounted to the tank with my current setup. The two I have are running on the dart frog tank in my living room which is complete overkill, so I’ll switch those out with some basic plant growing LEDs
If you didn’t toss them away and you got them new they came with a wire hanging kit. I used that to suspended them a inch from the top of my canopy in the hood. They are very strong wires, with a little thought you should easily be able to suspended them over the tank. You could do the ceiling as well if you ensure you tap into one of the ceiling studs. You could also make a temporary wooded 2x4 frame until you figure out something that works better.
 
If you didn’t toss them away and you got them new they came with a wire hanging kit. I used that to suspended them a inch from the top of my canopy in the hood. They are very strong wires, with a little thought you should easily be able to suspended them over the tank. You could do the ceiling as well if you ensure you tap into one of the ceiling studs. You could also make a temporary wooded 2x4 frame until you figure out something that works better.
I think I still have those somewhere I’ll have to double check. Do you know how to check for ceiling studs? I’m guessing one of those stud finder thingies?
 
I think I still have those somewhere I’ll have to double check. Do you know how to check for ceiling studs? I’m guessing one of those stud finder thingies?
That too, but you could also measure from the corner of the wall and ceiling their should be a ceiling rafter every 16 inches apart per building code for refrence. Measure in two spots for a straight line of the stud same as cutting a sheet of plywood. However Harbor freight has the stud finders for like $10 bucks and Amazon shouldn't be much more. I think that would be the fool proof easy way lol. What I mentioned above is how they were found before stud finders were a thing.
 
I think I still have those somewhere I’ll have to double check. Do you know how to check for ceiling studs? I’m guessing one of those stud finder thingies?
If you want to go the easy route, just use a ceiling hook. Get a dry wall anchor type. The light's aren't that heavy. Little old houseplant ladies (that includes me) hang plants using those. This potted plant is at least 10+ lbs. Even heavier when freshly watered.

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Other option would be to simply anchor a 1x4 to the ceiling. Could also use drywall anchors if you can't find a stud exactly over your tank.
 
If you want to go the easy route, just use a ceiling hook. Get a dry wall anchor type. The light's aren't that heavy. Little old houseplant ladies (that includes me) hang plants using those. This potted plant is at least 10+ lbs. Even heavier when freshly watered.

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Other option would be to simply anchor a 1x4 to the ceiling. Could also use drywall anchors if you can't find a stud exactly over your tank.
+1. Hooks + Anchors + fishing line is the way to go IMO. From my build thread:

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Takes a bit of finangling to adjust the lines to keep everything straight because the power cords cause some torque, but works well.
 
Got the lights hung with some drywall hooks as suggested above, thanks guys! Seems pretty sturdy. They are too high with the hanging kit that came with the lights so I ordered an adjustable hanging kit I am going to use to lower them. It’s nice that they’re adjustable so I can raise/lower them where they need to be once I get my hands on the PAR meter. They are a little off center which I’m not sure if it’s going to bother me long term, but don’t really want to drill another hole directly next to an existing hole
 

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Got the lights hung with some drywall hooks as suggested above, thanks guys! Seems pretty sturdy. They are too high with the hanging kit that came with the lights so I ordered an adjustable hanging kit I am going to use to lower them. It’s nice that they’re adjustable so I can raise/lower them where they need to be once I get my hands on the PAR meter. They are a little off center which I’m not sure if it’s going to bother me long term, but don’t really want to drill another hole directly next to an existing hole


I thought about it after the fact you may need extra cord for desired height but what you showed in the picture will make it easy enough.

Another possible suggestion came to mind based on your picture. Check out the link below. Only for subject refrence. It would make the cords stand out a little less, somthing like these. Double side tape to wall possibly. They also have stuff like this at lowes home depot etc. They are smaller ones of course hopefully the link at least allows you to get the idea i'm throwiing out.

 
I thought about it after the fact you may need extra cord for desired height but what you showed in the picture will make it easy enough.

Another possible suggestion came to mind based on your picture. Check out the link below. Only for subject refrence. It would make the cords stand out a little less, somthing like these. Double side tape to wall possibly. They also have stuff like this at lowes home depot etc.

Thank you! I actually do need something like that. I didn’t think about it till they were hung up but the cords hanging down definitely bother me
 
Got the lights hung with some drywall hooks as suggested above, thanks guys! Seems pretty sturdy. They are too high with the hanging kit that came with the lights so I ordered an adjustable hanging kit I am going to use to lower them. It’s nice that they’re adjustable so I can raise/lower them where they need to be once I get my hands on the PAR meter. They are a little off center which I’m not sure if it’s going to bother me long term, but don’t really want to drill another hole directly next to an existing hole
Something else to consider to help get them centered, is to hang a 1x4 off the two hooks. Then attach the lights to the 1x4 wherever you desire.
 
Let there be light! Honestly.. the lights being perfectly even doesn’t bother me too much so I’m just going to leave as is. It’s only really noticeable if you really look. I have to get my hands on a Nicrew controller so I can adjust the coloring as the preset settings only let me adjust in 25% increments and this is way too blue. I never really noticed since my other tank has sand and this is bare bottom but the salt left almost like a dusty residue. Return pump has been on with decent flow and I threw in a cheap powerhead but I guess the water hasn’t mixed fully even after over 48hrs? I’m going to run both an MP10 and MP40 that I have on hand.. maybe that will stir it up and dissolve it, A little worried that the MP40 will be too much. I opted for the MP40 when they were on sale because the price difference to upgrade from the MP10 to MP40 wasn’t too much and I figured it will work better for a future upgrade but the 10” height worries me. Worst case, I have an MP10 running on my Max E 170 that I can switch it out with.
 

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Anybody know if a refugium is a good idea on a frag tank? Or should I use that area for rock since there won’t be any if the display? Or biomedia instead of rock?
 

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