Jestersix

Partially Fixed AI prime -- Was WTB: (borrow or buy): AI prime power supply or full AI prime

richiev

Supporting Member
A friend shipped me some tank supplies, including an AI prime which he says isn't working properly. Unfortunately he forgot to ship the power adapter.



He's not really sure what's wrong with it, so I'd rather not buy a power adapter just to debug it and find it's toast. So I'm looking for an adapter, ideally to borrow with the option to buy.



Assuming no one wants to sell just the adapter, if anyone has a full AI prime they'd like to sell I'd take that. I'll use it to debug this one, but a do know there's a decent likelihood I'll then later sell it.



So is anyone near Redwood City and either:

* Will let me borrow an AI prime power supply

* Has an AI prime they'd sell me

* Knows a way to diy a 24v ai prime compatible plug, without destroying the existing one or the misc 24v adapter I have (I don't want to cut any cables nor temporarily solder any wires)



Thanks!
 
A friend shipped me some tank supplies, including an AI prime which he says isn't working properly. Unfortunately he forgot to ship the power adapter.



He's not really sure what's wrong with it, so I'd rather not buy a power adapter just to debug it and find it's toast. So I'm looking for an adapter, ideally to borrow with the option to buy.



Assuming no one wants to sell just the adapter, if anyone has a full AI prime they'd like to sell I'd take that. I'll use it to debug this one, but a do know there's a decent likelihood I'll then later sell it.



So is anyone near Redwood City and either:

* Will let me borrow an AI prime power supply

* Has an AI prime they'd sell me

* Knows a way to diy a 24v ai prime compatible plug, without destroying the existing one or the misc 24v adapter I have (I don't want to cut any cables nor temporarily solder any wires)



Thanks!
I can help with this.
 
Hey all, thanks so much! I just a bit ago realized I had a little DC power plug conversion plug (lucky I bought a $10 light controller recently) and with that I was able to get it plugged in.

The light itself was jacked. I got it turned on, and setup, but shortly after the LEDs went on it started flashing, acting weird, and then turning off.

A couple sniff tests for ozone, listening for high frequency squeal, I hoped it was just a short from salt. So I disassembled, gave it a rubbing alcohol cleaning, rub down with a qtip, then another round of rubbing alcohol, then a blow dry.

Results:
PXL_20220124_012907378.jpg


The lens cover obviously has melted on one, but overall it's a workable light now.

I might still need a power supply to run this, so if either of you folks want to sell the power supply versus loan it, let me know. Otherwise I'll just pick a compatible one up on Amazon.

You guys rock for offering to help do quickly!
 
Unfortunately, it's still turning itself off after a prolonged period on. I think though that might be because my power supply is only rated for 1.5A, which is too small. In theory I can only do at most 36W with this supply.

More annoyingly, in looking at it more the UV diode seems to be toast. The lens cover that goes over the full unit is burnt through, the actual led diode doesn't have a dome cover on it (unless that's normal for that spectrum), and more importantly I don't see that diode producing any light.

I mean, coral don't need UV anyway, right? /S

I sent an email off to AI support to see what they say. Worst case I can use it as a supplemental light on something, or a fuge light, or a quarantine light, or something.

I still might grab a power supply from someone, but I'll keep you all updated.

Thanks again!
 
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Unfortunately, it's still turning itself off after a prolonged period on. I think though that might be because my power supply is only rated for 1.5A, which is too small. In theory I can only do at most 36W with this supply.

More annoyingly, in looking at it more the UV diode seems to be toast. The lens cover that goes over the full unit is burnt through, the actual led diode doesn't have a dome cover on it (unless that's normal for that spectrum), and more importantly I don't see that diode producing any light.

I mean, coral don't need UV anyway, right? /S

I sent an email off to AI support to see what they say. Worst case I can use it as a supplemental light on something, or a fuge light, or a quarantine light, or something.

I still might grab a power supply from someone, but I'll keep you all updated.

Thanks again!
I have 12 AI-Prime lights. The UV has burned out on at least 5 of them so far.
I think UV is a fad anyway.
 
Does anyone know what happens in practice if you ship an out of warranty AI Prime to AI for RMA work? Paying to ship it there, and then paying to ship it back, and unclear if they'd fix it and/or charge me to fix it, seems low ROI. However, I also imagine it's not a good use of their time to actually replace an LED or other components on this existing board, setting themselves up to have to fix it again later, so I'm wondering if in practice I'd get a newer model (eg a Prime16) shipped back.
 
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I also have a AI Prime that is flickering that's not in use if someone wants to mess around with it.
I don't plan on sending it in. It comes with the power supply and flexible gooseneck if someone ( @thesassyindian) wants to try and fix it.
I'm happy to be the AI Prime collector and debugger if no one else wants it :). I do need a gooseneck and power supply anyway!
 
@nly04 looks like you're in Fremont? I can pick that one up too when I go get the one from bfirecat. @thesassyindian I can bring them all to my place, do a first round of debugging, and then we can figure out which we harvest for parts / ship to AI / use / toss. I imagine your EE skills are higher than mine, but I can at least gather the first data points.
 
@nly04 looks like you're in Fremont? I can pick that one up too when I go get the one from bfirecat. @thesassyindian I can bring them all to my place, do a first round of debugging, and then we can figure out which we harvest for parts / ship to AI / use / toss. I imagine your EE skills are higher than mine, but I can at least gather the first data points.
Sounds like a plan! Happy to help!
 
@nly04 looks like you're in Fremont? I can pick that one up too when I go get the one from bfirecat. @thesassyindian I can bring them all to my place, do a first round of debugging, and then we can figure out which we harvest for parts / ship to AI / use / toss. I imagine your EE skills are higher than mine, but I can at least gather the first data points.
Sure. I am in Union City not too far from Rygh. It white housing and will come with power supply, too.
 
Quick update so I don't lose this. Here's a layout diagram of the component groups on the AI Prime board. There's 7 colors, each powered by their own group of componentry. I poked around with a multimeter trying to see if I could figure out why Royal Blue wasn't working on one of these.

AI Prime Layout.png
 
Quick update so I don't lose this. Here's a layout diagram of the component groups on the AI Prime board. There's 7 colors, each powered by their own group of componentry. I poked around with a multimeter trying to see if I could figure out why Royal Blue wasn't working on one of these.

View attachment 35142
Can you please post a high resolution picture of channels 6 and 7?

Also, what does the multimeter show on either side of the RB LED in diode mode?
 
Can you please post a high resolution picture of channels 6 and 7?

Also, what does the multimeter show on either side of the RB LED in diode mode?
Due to work I haven't had a chance to follow-up today, but hopefully I'll pull some pics later. The issue with current on the RB is before the LED I believe. I was measuring voltage by checking across the capacitors in the LED's power source array, and for RB it was 0. There was no obvious frying/blown cap smell/...

You asking this reminded me I gave it another thorough cleaning and left it to dry. Should be dry by now, so I'll give it another try.

High-level of the AI Primes:

• my minnesota friend's: UV led is destroyed (literally melted away). I haven't checked the circuits if power is getting there. From now on called minnesota's
• bfirecat's AI Prime: no power at the RB circuit (not thoroughly vetted)
• nly04's AI hydra 16: one of the circuit boards is totally fried. It's the removable one, which I assumed was likely the networking chip. However it must be more than that since it doesn't do anything with that removed.

I'm also going to draft up an email to AI support and see what they say regarding support. However, currently I've got one heck of a QT tank, which is now a frag tank, going:

PXL_20220201_021226834.jpg
 

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