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LED Q&A thread

You can drill and tap the heatsink pretty easily if you have access to a manual mill. I wouldn't tackle it with a drill press.
That said, even with mill access, I'd be highly tempted to use these: http://www.luxeonstar.com/Pre-Cut-Thermal-Tape-for-20mm-hex-Bases-12-p/lxt-s-12.htm
 
Tony,
I have an off the wall question, I'm not very tech savvy so bare with me.
On my last trip to Lowes I saw that they have LED screw in bulbs like the ones by sunbrite. a screw in socket, heat sink fins and 3, 5 or 9 LED depending upon how bright you want it to be. Now the packaging says they are only 2700k, but they 9 LED light is only $60. Is it possible to order up some blue and white LED's and remove the yellow ones and have a nice semi DIY LED for around $100? or is this not possible?

like I said, I was just thinking.
 
TEchnically yes, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you are coming around $100 for a screw in modified, I'd just pay a little more and do it right for $119 http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=74&products_id=623

Likely the HD one uses inferior LEDs
 
Gomer said:
TEchnically yes, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you are coming around $100 for a screw in modified, I'd just pay a little more and do it right for $119 http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=74&products_id=623

Likely the HD one uses inferior LEDs
And most likely inferior power sources, so you wouldn't get that CREE level of output.

Also wouldn't surprised me if the LEDs are attached to a single circuit panel, so good luck getting those stars to hook up to that.
 
Gomer said:
You can drill and tap the heatsink pretty easily if you have access to a manual mill. I wouldn't tackle it with a drill press.
That said, even with mill access, I'd be highly tempted to use these: http://www.luxeonstar.com/Pre-Cut-Thermal-Tape-for-20mm-hex-Bases-12-p/lxt-s-12.htm

Question: Is there any issue with these "adhesive pads" being too thick? The thing with thermal adhesive is you can use a flat surface (razor blade, etc) to put a micro amount on, but still have awesome thermal contact to pull heat away, I'd be a tad worried these pads would be too thick and as such "overclocking" your LEDs might be problematic. Or am I just worrying too much.
 
Gomer said:
TEchnically yes, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you are coming around $100 for a screw in modified, I'd just pay a little more and do it right for $119 http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=74&products_id=623

Likely the HD one uses inferior LEDs


I'd buy it from the source, www.nanocustoms.com since they are in Cali (Thousand oaks)
http://www.nanocustoms.com/index.php?cPath=30
 
I would think that the only problem with epoxy or tape is that if you change your mind in the future, like I did, you are most likely looking at breaking that star to take it off.
In my case, since I used screws, I can easily pop it off and replace with different color now. :)
My 2 cents
 
Hey Gomer,

Wanted to get an update on your SPS growth under the LEDs. Are they still bleached/browning out? I have read that some of the easier sps, like green slimers, do well under LED. Curious to see how more demanding corals fair.
 
dropped the light intensity in a few stages and the weren't bleached by the end, but they were brown. Corals that didn't bleach browned. Those that were colorful under the high light stage, stayed colorful under the lower light stage.

green SPS did well. red did ok and blue did poor.
 
The bleaching was shock+ intensity, but that was only on certain corals. I had some SPS that were off to the sides. I had one that was in two locations (light intensities) and they never showed any signs of bleaching. Having run the LEDs for several months on SPS, I'm leaning towards spectrum.
 
I want to upgrade the lighting on my tank and was thinking of building an LED fixture like yours, but I guess I will have to stick with MH for now. The LEDs sure look bright enough to grow anything. I read somewhere that LEDs don't put off any UV, but no one knows if corals need UV or not.
 
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