got ethical husbandry?

Cyno or Dino

S

Sundara

Supporting Member
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Hi everyone happy holidays! I struggle with my 50g right now. It been running for 10 months . I had cyno right now. I try threat with Chimeclean. But still can’t get rid of those cyno. All my torch and some of my zoa doesn’t look happy. They keep close about 2 week already.
- All water parameters look ok.
-Flow look good I had mp40 and turn on 50 %.
- ice cap skimmer.
- dosing with All For Reef 6 ml everyday.
- 10 g water change every 2 weeks

Any recommendations to get rid those cyno.
And bring back all my torch back to happy.




By API kits test

Alk 11
Mg 1400
No3. 5
Po4. .5
Ca. 450
Salinity 1.025
Temp 78
Used RO water. TDS = 1 or 2 some time

Thanks for advice
 

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MarcosDelgado0 said:
Do you have a picture with white lights on?

What are your exact parameters? One thing I’ve learned is “ok” means something different to everyone
Click to expand...
What you mean by exactly
MarcosDelgado0 said:
Do you have a picture with white lights on?

What are your exact parameters? One thing I’ve learned is “ok” means something different to everyone
Click to expand...
what you mean by exact parameters?
This all I have from test.

Alk 11
Mg 1400
No3. 5
Po4. .5
Ca. 450
Salinity 1.025
Temp 78
 
Do you run carbon? Try rinsing a bag and putting it in your sump. Might soak up the problem. Numbers look fine, alk is a little high for my liking, but if its consistent that is okay.

Also, let the cyano happen, it happens on ocean reefs in places. Maybe also try adding flow, that often can kick up the cyano.
 
Were you able to fix your skimmer? One thing to try is turning off the lights for 2-3 days and see if things improve. But the fact you used chemiclean with no effect leads me to think dinoflagellates.
 
Darkxerox said:
Were you able to fix your skimmer? One thing to try is turning off the lights for 2-3 days and see if things improve. But the fact you used chemiclean with no effect leads me to think dinoflagellates.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply! I find out that I been used chimeclean products that why skimmer act like that. Basically it try to skim out the chemicals.

For the cyno It happens 2 month ago. I turn off light for 3 day. It work but it effects to the coral .some coral die. And 2 months later it come back . I keep everything same but still. Those bacteria come back.
 
Lots of bubbles + no reaction to antibiotics looks a little bit like Dinos. Microscope can confirm.

I suggest no more antibiotics. If it's cyano, ride it out - and it's kind of weird there's no response to antibiotics. If it's Dinos, you're hurting the tank's microbiome more by killing things that might compete. Dinos don't need low nutrients to grow
 
If it's dinos they have various methods of treating them. Most recommend getting a sample under a microscope to identify the type you have and how to treat that specific type once identified.

A uv is often recommended for some types of dinos. I've had dinos once just ran a uv and they were gone in less than two days.

I Just want to point out that uvs only work on certain types, so no garentees. Yet it's something to consider. The one below is right around $20 bucks if you wanna take a chance to see if it helps. No pressure intended.

A few members I believe have micro scopes maybe if someone is near you with one that could be a option.

I personally wouldn't know what type of microscope to recommend or the price of one that would be useful for the purpose of identifing dinoflagellate strands. If you want more specific information about that just ask and someone here can probably offer suggestions.

For the price the ultra violet sterilizer below I would personally give it a shot.

I used the biocube uv something I had on hand already and more expensive than the one linked. I'm Not giving a endorsment of any specific type of uv. I"m sure there are definitely other decent budget ones as well this was one of the cheapest I saw in a quick casual search.

AQUANEAT Aquarium Filter 5W U-V Bulb Green Water Killer Submersible Pump Filter 132 GPH for 75 Gallon Fish Tank https://a.co/d/bvsGnxs
 
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Hard to tell, but looks like dinos to me. Where are you approximately located? Lots of UV sterilizers commonly available in the club. They can help get things under control. Dinos are difficult. Lots of info about them, most of it with zero proof or scientific rigor.

Strong UV with low flow through it is one helpful piece. Especially if can be combined with other things, such as a short blackout and addition of pods and additional bacteria sources (such as a cup of sand from an established tank).

If you're in the peninsula I'm happy you give a bit of sand to see if it helps.
 
Looks like Dino’s to me. Here’s a very good ID guide, you MAY be able to figure out what type you have without a microscope based on certain characteristics, although microscope is the sure way:


Some Dino’s are relatively trivial, some are very challenging. They also have varying levels of toxicity so you need to be careful with things like blackouts. UV might work, biodiversity might work (sand, etc), high temps might work (83).
Usually what works is just time…give the tank time and try not to doing anything too drastic. IMO
 
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