got ethical husbandry?

Help, not sure what is wrong

Roc

Roc

Guest
BARcard
-BACKSTORY-

I just found out that the hyrdometer I have been using for 2 years is off by .004 - .005 on the low side (meaning if it reads 1.025 it is really 1.030). I drasticly needed to do something as I had quite a few corals dying off (this is what alerted me to this issue in the 1st place). Over the next 2 days I added RO/DI water about 3 times a day until I had got the salinity to 1.025.

In doing that I noticed that some of the corals that were doing fine before were now suffering, no mass tissue loss but mainly things like zoas not opening, and acans not getting puffy. I kept adding the same amount of B-ionic I had been (60 mls of both 1 and 2 part per day) but the levels were way lower then my past normal levels with Cal at 375, Alk at 7.28 DKH, however my PH and Mg stayed at normal levels ( mg 1300 ppm, PH at 8.2)

I decided it might be better to do a WC with water that I set up to be perfect (i.e Cal 425, Alk 8.96, Mg 1300, PH 8.2, Salinity 1.025) I did a 25 gallon water change (whole system holds about 120 - 150 gallons of water, hard to get an exact read but it's a 120 gal display and a 55 gal sump of which I am using about 3/5ths of the capacity).

I noticed basicly no difference, and I have been using this reef calulator to tell me how much B-ionic to add to bring it to normal levels http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chemcalc.html. It has stated that I should add 121.6 ml of part 1 (NOT TO BE ADDED ALL AT ONCE) to rasie the ALk and 468.7 ml of Part 2 to raise the cal.

I have added up to 80 mls of part 1 at one time but that rasies the PH to 8.6 for a couple of hours, so I haven't gone higher then that. However everytime I test I get the same damn 7.28 DKH. I have been slowly adding the cal to but those levels also don't seem to be changing.

Any ideas??????????
 
I suggest reading up on the relationship of MG/CA/ALK compared to the salinity level (see stickied thread in Resources forum). When ever you drop salinity by default all other levels will change as you are dropping the over all concentration of all of them by diluting the water. Think to yourself "how can my MG still be the same if I drop the salinity so far?". That is a huge red flag in my opinion and leads to me think your tests are off or the kits are faulty.

The calculator you are using is calibrated to "true" reef salinity of which is not 1.o25 but rather 1.0261. I go by ppt myself and strive to keep it at 35ppt.

FWIW there is no "perfect" levels, each tank is different. 8.6 PH is not only hard on all the animals in the tank, it stops all calcification.
 
FWIW I use Bionic amd had to stop using the Alk part for a while. I was having ALK issues I had to switch to RHM's DIY 2part recipe #2 alk since I have a Kalk reactor and my PH runs ~8.3 all the time. That recipe (297g (~1 1/8) Arm & Hammer Baking Soda into enough RODI to make 1 full gallon) doesn't bump you PH up, in fact, it initially lowers it a bit. It was the perfect solution for my problem and I have Jeremy to thank for reminding me about it :)

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

An Improved Do-it-Yourself Two-Part
Calcium and Alkalinity Supplement System
By Randy Holmes-Farley
.....Recipe #2 is for use in reef aquaria whose pH is on the high side (above 8.3 or so). It will have a very small pH lowering effect when initially added. The pH drop achieved will depend on the aquarium's alkalinity and, of course, on how much is added. Adding on the order of 0.5 meq/L of alkalinity drops the pH by about 0.04 pH units immediately upon its addition.

If you are using limewater (kalkwasser) and the aquarium is at pH 8.4 or above, this recipe may be the best choice. It is half as concentrated as Recipe #1 because the raw baking soda is less soluble because it's unbaked.
Click to expand...
 
Good find :)

I'll probably have some CA/ALK/MG/Salinity standards at BAYMAC. I'm trying to get one of our scientists to mix it up, then I buy some small dropper bottles for them :)
 
Yeah you can't trust any measurements without calibrating regardless of the sophistication of the device or the brand of the product. I had Salifert Alk kits that were off by as much as 3dKH. My refractometer was also off quite a bit.
 
hiepatitis said:
Yeah you can't trust any measurements without calibrating regardless of the sophistication of the device or the brand of the product. I had Salifert Alk kits that were off by as much as 3dKH. My refractometer was also off quite a bit.
Click to expand...
That's so true. Basically any instrument is only useful if regularly calibrated. I use steam distilled water and 35ppm standard to calibrate (monthly or so) my refracto and there IS some drift over time. Guess that's why they put that little screw there!
 
Well, It turns out I had a host of issues, only 1 being the salinity.

Bad test kits, which as I kept learning as I went it was one after another of bad ones.

A friend broght over his lemontte (sp) test kits and we got everything strighten out. I then began the Jim (bookfish) rule of reefing, Do WC more often and you will have to dose less if at all. I have been going on a soild week with a stable tank, and it honestly feels like a lifetime. I can't believe how much happier everything is in my tank including the fish and inverts.

I have seen more growth in the last week then in the last 2 months.

Thanks everyone for their help and advice and for bringing their equipment over to my house going completely out of their way. I am sorry to have lost so many DBTC corals, but I guess that is part of this hobby we all enjoy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top