Kessil

Ich/Velvet treatment

SamHa

SamHa

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Hi Everyone,

I have few question about ich/velvet treatment.
Well, I decided to add a powder blue tang to my tank that already had 12 fish( yellow tang, clown, puffer, damsel, buttefly, angelfish).
I got the fish from a reliable source that quarantine the fish 2 weeks already but still I quarantine 5 more days in QT and used Cuparamine to make sure everything is fine. But after I added him to the DT, after few days everything messed up and my tank wiped out. 10 fish died and I could see white spot and cloudy eyes on them. Just 2 clown fish and a damsel survived! Now I have few question:
1- what did go wrong? was it the blue tang problem? or maybe I already had some not noticeable ich before and adding the powder blue tang made it worst? I say that because I saw a little bit of white spot on my yellow tang before but it went away by itself. I did not know even if it is small sand sticking on him or not.

2- My more important question is that what should I do with these two clowns/ damsel? In the time that my DT wiped out I could see white spot and cloudy eyes on them but after couple of weeks it went away and they happily swimming around and are so active. I moved them to the QT to keep my DT fishless for 6 weeks to get rid of ich but still in QT they are also happy and no spot at all.

Is it possible that they carry ich but it is hidden? If it is the case how can I trust buying any fish and QT that? It might have it and does not show for couple of weeks in QT and later transfer it to a more sensitive fish like powder blue and thing go wrong again?
 
I ALWAYS QT even when they look healthy and eating. Because it appears they do carry it and it comes out when they are stressed and immune compromised. I have had great success with Seachem Cupramine. I dose half dose and it takes care of ich. I had a blue hippo tang that was absolutely covered with ich, cloudy eyes, and all head to tail covered in ich. Cupramine saved Dori's life. I know a lot of members here have great success with TTM, but I'm happy with Cupramine treatment.
 
I trust no one with quarantine. Trusting your source to quarantine already is like trusting that hooker in Vegas is std free :) just saying.


Btw 5 days in cupramine is useless. It needs as least 21 days to be effective.
 
That doesn't sound like ich to me. You mention velvet in your title, but not in the thread. I think it sounds more like that, if it killed most of your tank inhabitants in a matter of a few days.

Also ich and velvet not mutually exclusive. Your yellow tang may have had ich as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
DEATH BY SNU SNU said:
I ALWAYS QT even when they look healthy and eating. Because it appears they do carry it and it comes out when they are stressed and immune compromised. I have had great success with Seachem Cupramine. I dose half dose and it takes care of ich. I had a blue hippo tang that was absolutely covered with ich, cloudy eyes, and all head to tail covered in ich. Cupramine saved Dori's life. I know a lot of members here have great success with TTM, but I'm happy with Cupramine treatment.
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So are you recommending that I do half does Cupramine on my clown/damsel anyway? Even if they look ok?
 
scuzy said:
I trust no one with quarantine. Trusting your source to quarantine already is like trusting that hooker in Vegas is std free :) just saying.


Btw 5 days in cupramine is useless. It needs as least 21 days to be effective.
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That is right! I have to use longer time for Cupramine I guess!
 
Gablami said:
That doesn't sound like ich to me. You mention velvet in your title, but not in the thread. I think it sounds more like that, if it killed most of your tank inhabitants in a matter of a few days.

Also ich and velvet not mutually exclusive. Your yellow tang may have had ich as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That is my biggest issue! Even I do not know if it was Ich or Velvet! No idea! Just it wiped everything so fast!
 
scuzy said:
Is there live rocks in there? If so I won't suggest it.
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no live rock, mainly dry rock in DT.
I just have 2 small live rock in the sump.
Just want to make sure no parasite remaining! I heard that people did 6 weeks fishless and still ich/velvet came back! Maybe eggs stay between sand and hatch later without using Cupramine?
 
SamHa said:
I have a general question about QT. Do you use Cupramine on every new fish in QT that you buy? Just in case?
I heard that TT or Hypo will not work for velvet so the only safe option is Cupramine for QT?
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There are many ways to handle new arrivals. This is how I do it. I have a 40 gallon observation tank. All new fish enter this tank. It is bare bottom, with heater, air pump, hob filter, and plenty of live rock. This one has aged tank water (used water changed water). Fish stay in here for at least a month, maybe 2 months. If they are swimming around, healthy, and eating vigorously, note vigorously, like I shake my hand in front of the tank and they are practically jumping out of the water trying to get to invisible food in my fingers, then I will introduce into DT.

If they start showing signs of disease, luckily i have not run into velvet, so far it has just been ich, lymphocystis, flukes, etc., they get transferred to my hospital tank. this happens at night when they are sleeping. I come in with a plastic cup and easily scoop them out of the tank and into the 20 gallon tank with air pump, hob filter, bare bottom, and lots of pvc irrigation pipe for them to hide in. This tank gets Cupramine. I keep tabs on how many drops. so far it has 30 drops in it. 30 drops has been enough to clear all manner of parasites. once the disease has cleared, i keep them in another 14 days.

if all is well, they go back to the observation tank, in case the ich or whatever comes back... then refer back to the 1st paragraph. in the past year, I've only had 1 fish loss, which was a McCosker's Wrasse which I have no idea why he died...He died within a day of buying with no signs of disease, trauma, or anything.

All my fish were bought from Aquatic Collection. I trust Aquatic Collection. They don't sell me a fish if it doesn't look good. I still feed in the store to make sure they are eating before I buy.. I am 20 for 21.
 
DEATH BY SNU SNU said:
There are many ways to handle new arrivals. This is how I do it. I have a 40 gallon observation tank. All new fish enter this tank. It is bare bottom, with heater, air pump, hob filter, and plenty of live rock. This one has aged tank water (used water changed water). Fish stay in here for at least a month, maybe 2 months. If they are swimming around, healthy, and eating vigorously, note vigorously, like I shake my hand in front of the tank and they are practically jumping out of the water trying to get to invisible food in my fingers, then I will introduce into DT.

If they start showing signs of disease, luckily i have not run into velvet, so far it has just been ich, lymphocystis, flukes, etc., they get transferred to my hospital tank. this happens at night when they are sleeping. I come in with a plastic cup and easily scoop them out of the tank and into the 20 gallon tank with air pump, hob filter, bare bottom, and lots of pvc irrigation pipe for them to hide in. This tank gets Cupramine. I keep tabs on how many drops. so far it has 30 drops in it. 30 drops has been enough to clear all manner of parasites. once the disease has cleared, i keep them in another 14 days.

if all is well, they go back to the observation tank, in case the ich or whatever comes back... then refer back to the 1st paragraph. in the past year, I've only had 1 fish loss, which was a McCosker's Wrasse which I have no idea why he died...He died within a day of buying with no signs of disease, trauma, or anything.

All my fish were bought from Aquatic Collection. I trust Aquatic Collection. They don't sell me a fish if it doesn't look good. I still feed in the store to make sure they are eating before I buy.. I am 20 for 21.
Click to expand...
That is great procedure! I love it! Thank for sharing that. In needs lots of patience but at the end it will pay off.

Just one question about your Cupramine dosage. When you put 30 drops, and keep them there for 14 days do you do any water change in between? In this case do you add more drops?
 
SamHa said:
That is great procedure! I love it! Thank for sharing that. In needs lots of patience but at the end it will pay off.

Just one question about your Cupramine dosage. When you put 30 drops, and keep them there for 14 days do you do any water change in between? In this case do you add more drops?
Click to expand...


I carefully measure out how many water goes out and goes back in and then replenish the dosage accordingly.
 
Another thing I should mention is sometimes the fish pick up dust or sand particles which may look like ich... those come off in half a day or a few hours or whatever
 
Ah if you put the treated fish back into the same observation tank it will just get re introduce to ich that you originally had when you notice during observation period. You need to either sterilize the observation tank after noticing problems or its a endless cycle.
 
scuzy said:
Ah if you put the treated fish back into the same observation tank it will just get re introduce to ich that you originally had when you notice during observation period. You need to either sterilize the observation tank after noticing problems or its a endless cycle.
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ich is ubiquitous. It could be introduced with coral on a frag plug....
 
How I see it is that if you don't quarantine everything wet then don't quarantine at all. Nothing gets introduce into tank with it going through my quarantine process regardless of source.
 
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