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Nitrate Solutions: Pond Matrix?

So I’m thinking that even after the nitrates have been reduced through water changes they are bound to go back up when the psycho anthias resume their accustomed feeding schedule. It just doesn’t seem reasonable that even with an adjusted feeding schedule water changes alone are going to export enough nitrates unless I want to do a FOWLR.

Right now besides LR I have two fuges. One in the sump with LR and cheato, and one HOB with, I think Richard called them, Dead Mans Hands(?) . Obviously these aren’t working efficiently enough for export. There seems to be no magic bullet when it comes to nitrate reduction. I’m looking to expand the surface area for denitrification beyond what’s available in just random piles of LR in the sump and thinking about Pond Matrix that was mentioned in another thread. I’m thinking about taking out the cheato and LR, placing a series of baffles to direct the water flow thought the pond matrix before the return pump.

1) There’s only one person that chimed in with experience with Pond Matrix. Anyone else?

2) Are there any inherent dangers for the tank in pulling the already seasoned LR and cheato? The secondary fuge will still be in place and I can run an external canister filter for a month or two to seed prior to the swap.

3)What if I just fill the canister filter with Pond Matrix and run that? Will that be enough surface area to make a difference? (100gal total vol) It would make cleaning much easier.

4)Thoughts?

-Gregory
 
Kensington Reefer said:
Keep it simple. Do the water changes. Increase the size of them if necessary. How's the reliability of the test kit?

Right now I'm doing daily 15 to 20 gal WCs on 100gal total vol. It's been almost 3 weeks and I've reduced the nitrate from 160ppm+ (yes that seems high but that what the colour scale card says) to just below 40ppm. That's why it seems unreasonable to assume weekly WCs will be enough.

The test kit is an API and seems to give my decent readings on my fresh water tank as well as the nano, not nitrate free but low and acceptable. Tap and the sea water used for WCs are coming up nitrate free.

Maybe I just need to get rid of the anthias.......they're bastards anyway......

-Gregory
 
tuberider said:
Geez man, how much are you feeding them?

In my defense they were fat and spawning.........

They were eating a cube frozen formula 1 or 2 three to four times a day and then a shot of arctic pods before lights out. Right now they're only getting 1 cube of frozen a day and they're starting to lose weight.

-Gregory
 
160 is too high. Feed less. :D You can also look at short term carbon dosing or bio pellets - your situation seems perfect for them. I am having a nitrate issue at SFO, water changes and pellets are making a difference.

GDawson said:
1) There’s only one person that chimed in with experience with Pond Matrix. Anyone else?

Its just another way of getting more surface area for bacteria to colonize.

2) Are there any inherent dangers for the tank in pulling the already seasoned LR and cheato? The secondary fuge will still be in place and I can run an external canister filter for a month or two to seed prior to the swap.

3)What if I just fill the canister filter with Pond Matrix and run that? Will that be enough surface area to make a difference? (100gal total vol) It would make cleaning much easier.

A canister filter is an aerobic environment, for NNR (natural nitrate reduction) you need anaerobic conditions.

4)Thoughts?

-Gregory[/quote]
 
Thought of Bio Pellets but the jury still seemed out on the effectiveness/long term use. But hey, you work at an aquarium therefore it must be good/true. :) Now where's that ginger for my ich problem.........

Seriously, I'll look into the bio pellets........

-Gregory
 
rygh said:
Well, I did start a discussion on turf scrubbers.
http://www.bareefers.org/home/node/12042
I believe it would fix your nitrate issue permanently. Others would disagree.
But be REALLY SURE you understand the issues and build before considering it.
Might fix it by simply killing everything. :-(

ATS scare me. I've heard too many horror stories..... I would want to know someone that's been using one and observe it in operation for a prolonged period of time before attemptng it. Too many variables for me to feel comfortable given my experience level.

-Gregory
 
If your skimmer is effective, grab a bottle of brightwell biofuel (carbon source) & micro bacter 7 (bacteria source), dose according to instruction. They are not expensive & once the level is down, you can switch to low nutrient dosage, much cheaper & less work than WC.

The key is skimmer has to be effective, it rely on skimmer to remove bacteria bound with nutrient, and supply deleted oxygen by bacteria activities.

Don't understand why bacteria & carbon dosing can not be long term solution, lot of successful tanks has proved it can be.
 
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