Reliable Heaters? (eheim jagers consistently crapping out)

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by Enderturtle, Nov 16, 2015.

  1. denzil

    denzil Webmaster

    I'm still using the Jaegers but they're hooked up to the Apex so I'm not too worried about them. Even before they were hooked up to the controller, they were keeping the tanks at a warm 80 degrees. When it's time to replace them, I'll probably go with Cobalts to try them out as I hear good things about them.
  2. JAR

    JAR Supporting Member

    Enderturtle likes this.
  3. Enderturtle

    Enderturtle Volunteer

    The simple solution would be to replace the 150W I have with like 200W or 250W but the damn Eheim Jagers are so damn looooooooooong.

    They're probably the longest heaters available. lol The bigger versions don't fit in my sump compartment!

    I will have to switch brands.

    Thanks a bunch for the replies guys, I will have to replace my heater.
  4. jonmos75

    jonmos75 Supporting Member

    Mike I agree that they are so long that is why I have my Eheim in my
  5. wpeterson

    wpeterson Webmaster

    OK, let me know if you want to borrow a 100W or 150W Aqueon Pro. I have some spares.
  6. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

    Yes, but with a big caveat.
    As air temperature increases, evaporation increases.
    And evaporation can be the dominant heat loss, depending on tank setup.

    For example, air can hold 10X the moisture at 100F versus 32F.
    And if you heat cold air from outside, you end up with warm very dry air, that
    will significantly increase evaporation.

    So heating the air around your tank in the winter helps, but not as much as you might hope.

    That said, you are heating with gas, which is a lot cheaper than heating with electricity.
  7. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    I have my tanks in the garage and it's been pretty cold recently. I've found that I'm going through much more ro/di for top off than in the summer. Right now my 40g is going through about 2g every 2-3 days. During the summer, I can go almost a week before I have to refill. This is not counting the few days it goes over 100deg.

    I have 2 150w Cobalt NeoTherm heaters in the back chambers. Apex is set to start both at 78 n stop at 78.5 ( usually creeps to 78.8-78.9)

    I have my temp gauge sitting in the DT right before the overflow so it measures actual DT water temp n not water being heated by the heaters before it returns to the DT.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Enderturtle

    Enderturtle Volunteer

    Yeah I definitely lose way more water to evaporation in the Winter than in the Summer.
  9. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

    Energy needed to raise 1 pound of water 1 degree = 1 BTU
    Energy loss in evaporating 1 pound of water = 970 BTUs

    1000 BTU = 0.3 KWH, and at $0.25 per KWH = $0.075

    I figure about 1/2 gallon a day for my system, so that is $100 per year in heating costs, just for evaporation.
    My best estimate on overall aquarium heating bill was $500 per year, so evaporation is 20%.
    (Warning, not very accurate numbers)

    My tank and sump are acrylic plus insulated, and skimmer area of sump is sealed, so it is actually pretty efficient.
    Unfortunately a CO2/PH issue, but that is another story.
  10. sjbro

    sjbro Supporting Member

    :( I just burned out 2 heaters in less than two weeks. First was a Fluval E300, that ran for about 2-3 weeks before burning out, second a Marineland visi-term 250 that lasted lass than a week. I had them controlled by my RKE.

    Now, the Fluval turns on, shows me the temperature & I can select the target temperature on its display, it changes the color to blue which means the heater element is on, but the heater remains cold. Similarly the Marineland heater turns on its red LED indicating that it is heating, but it stays cold.

    Did I burned them out because I had them fully controlled by the RKE?!? The RKE was set to maintain a temperature of 77F +/- 0.4. The heaters' controllers were set at 79F. So the RKE was the one that was turning them on & off as needed.

    I'll buy a heater locally tomorrow and set it in the other mode: its controller will be set to 77F and the RKE will be set to 79F. I'm curious if that will make it last longer.
  11. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    Not familiar w either of those are keeping them submerged though correct?
  12. mattcoug

    mattcoug Guest

    I have qt tanks in the garage and I keep the door to the house propped open to keep it heated. My gas bill is much much less than electric bill and this helps a lot. As a side note, I have ~20 ehim jaeger heaters and only one has ever failed(water got inside somehow).

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. aqua-nut

    aqua-nut Supporting Member

    Ebo, now Eheim-Jager have been my go to heater for years. I've got one in my FW tank that must be at least 10 years old.

    In the reef tank I have them set two degrees above the off point controlled by the Apex. This way their thermostats never cycle unless the Apex goes bonkers (two times in the last two years).

    Just to be safe, I'll replace them soon. Perhaps I'll get to it before 2020! o_O:rolleyes:
  14. wpeterson

    wpeterson Webmaster

    I should have mentioned this, but one of the reasons I chose Finnex was because the tube is only 10" long for the 300W model, so it fits cross-wise in my sump.

    If you want to save some cash, the 300W titanium tubes (w/out controller are only $30 on sale from BRS black friday):

    Tube only:

    Tube & Controller:
  15. Enderturtle

    Enderturtle Volunteer


    Actually I had to recalibrate my heaters, crank the power up 1 or 2 clicks to meet up with the cold weather. So far they've been good.

    I wonder though, are we suppose to crank these heaters up to match the cold weather?

    What happens in the summer if I forget to recalibrate? The heater would make the water uncomfortably hot.

    I only feel comfortable doing this because my controller will turn off the heater in the summer if I forget to recalibrate for warmer conditions.
  16. sjbro

    sjbro Supporting Member

    Yes, they were fully submerged in my sump the whole time. I took the Fluval guard out and visually checked the heating element. No burn out signs, everything looks fine. It just doesn't heat up anymore, almost as its controller is locked out. I bought a new Aqueon heater for the Petco store near by to last me until I get some better heaters. My water temp was at 72F. Now it's back at 78F. All corals seem fine. Next time I'll have to order a new heater as soon as the main one dies. I didn't expect the backup heater to also die in less than a week.
  17. euod

    euod Supporting Member

    I am going through the same thing but the opposite. The eheim is not turning off. I usually don't use heaters but with the cold spell coming, I thought I would dial them in. Unfortunately, I messed with the red dial and now I am frantically trying to calibrate them. Hope my fish don't fry overnight. Gonna get some real heaters this week, cobalt neotherm :)
  18. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    i know the original ebo jaegers were super reliable. Not usre how the Eheim ones are. I usually use 2 heaters in my tank and they been working great.
  19. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

    If the controller cycles heaters on and off very quickly, that can cause damage the heater coil.

    Normally, there is a bit of hysteresis programmed in.
    Turn on when temp is below 76
    Turn off when temp is above 78
    If your on/off point is at the exact same temp, it can go crazy.
  20. sjbro

    sjbro Supporting Member

    I had RK set to allow +/- 0.3. Now I set the new heater at 77 and RK at 79 as a safety off switch.

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