Yes, that exactly correct.If I understand you correctly. You filled the overflow with water and the water leaked out into the display. If that’s correct. It’s fine. Just as long as it’s doesn’t leak out if the aquarium on to the floor.
Yes, that exactly correct.If I understand you correctly. You filled the overflow with water and the water leaked out into the display. If that’s correct. It’s fine. Just as long as it’s doesn’t leak out if the aquarium on to the floor.
Your good. The overflow box to the display doesn’t need to be sealed. Small leaks is perfectly fine. Keep going.Yes, that exactly correct.
Like @Turkeysammich said keep going. You're goodYes, that exactly correct.
The tank has over an inch bottom. It seems like multiple layers of glass and starboard but I am not sure. See picture.Not sure I agree. If return pump was off a long time couldn’t water level in display wind up dropping a lot?
I have no clue what your talking about with different layers of the bottom?
It can only drop as low as the lowest siphon tube unless he has a leak in that tube also.Not sure I agree. If return pump was off a long time couldn’t water level in display wind up dropping a lot?
I have no clue what your talking about with different layers of the bottom?
The bottom of CDA tanks usually has the full glass panel. Then yours has the eurobrace along the bottom edge. The star board only covers the bottom middle where the eurobrace does not cover.The tank has over an inch bottom. It seems like multiple layers of glass and starboard but I am not sure. See picture.
I was going to comment the same thing as @Coral reefer , but that's an interesting point. Still feels wrong though.It can only drop as low as the lowest siphon tube unless he has a leak in that tube also.
Some cda aquariums have a starboard like bottom on top of the bottom glass.
Also, reading the first post again. Given this a new tank, have you contacted CDA and said wtf (nicely)?I was going to comment the same thing as @Coral reefer , but that's an interesting point. Still feels wrong though.
Maybe taking a different view on it, would it feel safe to cut a visible all the way through the overflow? Pin prick or gaping hole the answer should be the same. The answer seems like it should be yes based on that logic, but still feels weird.
As I said first, interesting.
Better off yelling at clouds lolAlso, reading the first post again. Given this a new tank, have you contacted CDA and said wtf (nicely)?
CDA no longer exists.Also, reading the first post again. Given this a new tank, have you contacted CDA and said wtf (nicely)?
Jinx.CDA no longer exists.
No, that is NOT GOOD. Water inside the OF box shouldn’t be leaking out into the main display or vice versa. If that happened, then you have a defective seal and it needs to be fixed. If you don’t, then you’re relying on seals in ALL your down pipes bulkheads inside the overflow box which is not a way to go. If for some reason those bulkheads fail for any reasons then you’re screwed because your entire tank can be emptied into your sump and then your floor.Your good. The overflow box to the display doesn’t need to be sealed. Small leaks is perfectly fine. Keep going.
Sorry for the bad advice. I see what your saying. So since the aquarium company is out of business. Wouldn’t it be pick the best option cuz both options suck. Adding more silicone to the weir probably wouldn’t work cuz silicone doesn’t stick to dried silicone. Would The fix be to cut out the weir and resilicone the weir and hope for it to seal. What would you do ? I’m curious how a professional would handle Now this question is really interesting to me. Unless there’s another way that I missed.Also, based on how your tank was assembled, you’re not going to be able to reliably fix that leaky seal without completely disassembling the entire overflow box and reseal it.
Your next best course of action is to ditch ALL the thread/slip bulkheads and use slip/slip instead and cement all the pipes to the bulkheads. That way you’ll know you’ll have complete seals on them.
With the thread/slip bulkheads, you’re relying on Teflon tape/paste as the final defense which is terrible.
Nothing to be sorry about, Will! Everyone is learning. I’ve encountered this issue before so it’s just a matter of experience.Sorry for the bad advice. I see what your saying. So since the aquarium company is out of business. Wouldn’t it be pick the best option cuz both options suck. Adding more silicone to the weir probably wouldn’t work cuz silicone doesn’t stick to dried silicone. Would The fix be to cut out the weir and resilicone the weir and hope for it to seal. What would you do ? I’m curious how a professional would handle Now this question is really interesting to me. Unless there’s another way that I missed.
I thank you for being on this board, dropping advice and knowledge. It’s extremely helpful.Nothing to be sorry about, Will! Everyone is learning. I’ve encountered this issue before so it’s just a matter of experience.
As I kinda mentioned before, there’s really is no real practical way to fix the leaks without completely disassembling the overflow box and reseal it. If it was me, I would abandon that idea and let it leaks. However, he needs to rely on a much more reliable seal at the bulkheads since that will be his final defense against a complete tank dump. He can do that by converting all his threaded (flange side) bulkheads to slip and use cement. That way, he doesn’t have to use Teflon tape since there’s no thread.