Reef nutrition

Nhan’s 140g

Not sure I agree. If return pump was off a long time couldn’t water level in display wind up dropping a lot?
I have no clue what your talking about with different layers of the bottom?
The tank has over an inch bottom. It seems like multiple layers of glass and starboard but I am not sure. See picture.
 

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Not sure I agree. If return pump was off a long time couldn’t water level in display wind up dropping a lot?
I have no clue what your talking about with different layers of the bottom?
It can only drop as low as the lowest siphon tube unless he has a leak in that tube also.

Some cda aquariums have a starboard like bottom on top of the bottom glass.
 
The tank has over an inch bottom. It seems like multiple layers of glass and starboard but I am not sure. See picture.
The bottom of CDA tanks usually has the full glass panel. Then yours has the eurobrace along the bottom edge. The star board only covers the bottom middle where the eurobrace does not cover.

Like mentioned above you are fine, but my own personal preference would be to silicone the inside for my own peace of mind. You could try filling the overflow and a couple of inches of water in the tank to see if there are any leaks on the bottom panel.
 
It can only drop as low as the lowest siphon tube unless he has a leak in that tube also.

Some cda aquariums have a starboard like bottom on top of the bottom glass.
I was going to comment the same thing as @Coral reefer , but that's an interesting point. Still feels wrong though.

Maybe taking a different view on it, would it feel safe to cut a visible hole all the way through the overflow? Pin prick or gaping hole the answer should be the same. The answer seems like it should be yes based on that logic, but still feels weird.

As I said first, interesting.
 
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I was going to comment the same thing as @Coral reefer , but that's an interesting point. Still feels wrong though.

Maybe taking a different view on it, would it feel safe to cut a visible all the way through the overflow? Pin prick or gaping hole the answer should be the same. The answer seems like it should be yes based on that logic, but still feels weird.

As I said first, interesting.
Also, reading the first post again. Given this a new tank, have you contacted CDA and said wtf (nicely)?
 
Your good. The overflow box to the display doesn’t need to be sealed. Small leaks is perfectly fine. Keep going.
No, that is NOT GOOD. Water inside the OF box shouldn’t be leaking out into the main display or vice versa. If that happened, then you have a defective seal and it needs to be fixed. If you don’t, then you’re relying on seals in ALL your down pipes bulkheads inside the overflow box which is not a way to go. If for some reason those bulkheads fail for any reasons then you’re screwed because your entire tank can be emptied into your sump and then your floor.

If you have proper seal between the overflow box and your bulkhead leaks during power failure, then only the water inside the overflow box will leak into your sump but the remaining water in the tank will only drops to the level of the weir.
 
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Also, based on how your tank was assembled, you’re not going to be able to reliably fix that leaky seal without completely disassembling the entire overflow box and reseal it.

Your next best course of action is to ditch ALL the thread/slip bulkheads and use slip/slip instead and cement all the pipes to the bulkheads. That way you’ll know you’ll have complete seals on them.

With the thread/slip bulkheads, you’re relying on Teflon tape/paste as the final defense which is terrible.
 
Also, based on how your tank was assembled, you’re not going to be able to reliably fix that leaky seal without completely disassembling the entire overflow box and reseal it.

Your next best course of action is to ditch ALL the thread/slip bulkheads and use slip/slip instead and cement all the pipes to the bulkheads. That way you’ll know you’ll have complete seals on them.

With the thread/slip bulkheads, you’re relying on Teflon tape/paste as the final defense which is terrible.
Sorry for the bad advice. I see what your saying. So since the aquarium company is out of business. Wouldn’t it be pick the best option cuz both options suck. Adding more silicone to the weir probably wouldn’t work cuz silicone doesn’t stick to dried silicone. Would The fix be to cut out the weir and resilicone the weir and hope for it to seal. What would you do ? I’m curious how a professional would handle Now this question is really interesting to me. Unless there’s another way that I missed.
 
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Sorry for the bad advice. I see what your saying. So since the aquarium company is out of business. Wouldn’t it be pick the best option cuz both options suck. Adding more silicone to the weir probably wouldn’t work cuz silicone doesn’t stick to dried silicone. Would The fix be to cut out the weir and resilicone the weir and hope for it to seal. What would you do ? I’m curious how a professional would handle Now this question is really interesting to me. Unless there’s another way that I missed.
Nothing to be sorry about, Will! Everyone is learning. I’ve encountered this issue before so it’s just a matter of experience.

As I kinda mentioned before, there’s really is no real practical way to fix the leaks without completely disassembling the overflow box and reseal it. If it was me, I would abandon that idea and let it leaks. However, he needs to rely on a much more reliable seal at the bulkheads since that will be his final defense against a complete tank dump. He can do that by converting all his threaded (flange side) bulkheads to slip and use cement. That way, he doesn’t have to use Teflon tape since there’s no thread.
 
BTW…I had returned several tanks with this exact same issue to CDA in the early years. Hopefully this is not one of them that he resold without repairing it.
 
Nothing to be sorry about, Will! Everyone is learning. I’ve encountered this issue before so it’s just a matter of experience.

As I kinda mentioned before, there’s really is no real practical way to fix the leaks without completely disassembling the overflow box and reseal it. If it was me, I would abandon that idea and let it leaks. However, he needs to rely on a much more reliable seal at the bulkheads since that will be his final defense against a complete tank dump. He can do that by converting all his threaded (flange side) bulkheads to slip and use cement. That way, he doesn’t have to use Teflon tape since there’s no thread.
I thank you for being on this board, dropping advice and knowledge. It’s extremely helpful.
 
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