got ethical husbandry?

Nhan’s 140g

Is the overflow siliconed on the inside of it, the outside, or both?

Maybe possible to put a thick bead on the non siliconed side? Cutting it out on a brand new tank seems like it'd be extremely frustrating.

Another hack option, cut a piece of PVC into a third and silicone it around that corner on the inside? Might be a huge pita to do, and might lead to weird stagnant water. However if done with a narrow pipe maybe you could fill the whole thing with silicone?

The slip bulkhead idea seems like the bestest idea.

I personally would probably take the lazy route, use it as is, do a test fit and confirm no drips. Then when the power goes out during the summer windstorms I'd be scrambling to deal with a flooded living room and coral sitting in the air.

Can you charge back an out of business company?
 
Is the overflow siliconed on the inside of it, the outside, or both?

Maybe possible to put a thick bead on the non siliconed side? Cutting it out on a brand new tank seems like it'd be extremely frustrating.

Another hack option, cut a piece of PVC into a third and silicone it around that corner on the inside? Might be a huge pita to do, and might lead to weird stagnant water. However if done with a narrow pipe maybe you could fill the whole thing with silicone?

The slip bulkhead idea seems like the bestest idea.

I personally would probably take the lazy route, use it as is, do a test fit and confirm no drips. Then when the power goes out during the summer windstorms I'd be scrambling to deal with a flooded living room and coral sitting in the air.

Can you charge back an out of business company?
The overflow seal silicone when done properly should be between the glass just like the regular main sides. That’s where the main sealing is done. The bead of silicone you see on the outside of the overflow box is just for esthetic purpose since silicone doesn’t bond to acrylic well. In the case of the overflow box, there’s the outside layer which is made of acrylic (for the weir) and then there’s reinforcement glass lining inside the box for extra structural strength. The failure here is when they sealed the inner lining, they didn’t do it properly so in order to fix it, you’ll have to take off the entire overflow box, clean all the surfaces and then reseal it. Really not worth it and chances are will not be as good as virgin surface. I’ve tried it once and I’d never do it again.
 
BTW…I had returned several tanks with this exact same issue to CDA in the early years. Hopefully this is not one of them that he resold without repairing it.
I was your first few customers when you order the first few batch of CDAa tank 9-10year ago. At the time CDA workmanship is not good. This new tank sure not from those early batch because the double Euro brace on top and bottom, also CDA does not have the starboard inside and outside back then.
 
I was your first few customers when you order the first few batch of CDAa tank 9-10year ago. At the time CDA workmanship is not good. This new tank sure not from those early batch because the double Euro brace on top and bottom, also CDA does not have the starboard inside and outside back then.
Took him a long time to finally learn to build the tanks properly but because he ran into a bad batch of builds because the silicone mfg. changed their formula without his knowledge, he got sued out of business. Now, everyone have one less choice on the west coast for tank builders…lol. This is not an easy industry to be in.
 
Last night I fill the tank up and pay attention to the overflow again, I noticed 3 small bubble where it leak, other than that the tank is fine.
I run it for an hrs and check again, I don’t see any leak on the tank beside the overflow.
I power off a few times to make sure the sump can hold up and doesn’t overflow when power out stage, I make adjustments on the gate vale of the main siphon to make it silent.

While drain water out, I notice a tiny wet on one of the thread fitting.
 
Today, after wiped down the tank, I apply some Momentive RTV103 silicone to the area where it leak from inside the overflow . I understand it may not work this way but let see after cx

I tighten up the fitting where I saw it wet. Also raise up the main siphon pipe.
 
One other option, but also likely not worth it, you could remove the overflow box and install and exterior one. Would have to use or cap the existing holes in the bottom tho
 
Took him a long time to finally learn to build the tanks properly but because he ran into a bad batch of builds because the silicone mfg. changed their formula without his knowledge, he got sued out of business. Now, everyone have one less choice on the west coast for tank builders…lol. This is not an easy industry to be in.
Jeff Turner that runs RAD in Florida always has videos about his builds on YouTube and the one thing he blurs out is the silicone manufacturer/type. Cost is low overall compared to the price of the tank but it's such a key component and obviously a trade secret for the good ones.
 
Is the overflow siliconed on the inside of it, the outside, or both?

Maybe possible to put a thick bead on the non siliconed side? Cutting it out on a brand new tank seems like it'd be extremely frustrating.

Another hack option, cut a piece of PVC into a third and silicone it around that corner on the inside? Might be a huge pita to do, and might lead to weird stagnant water. However if done with a narrow pipe maybe you could fill the whole thing with silicone?

The slip bulkhead idea seems like the bestest idea.

I personally would probably take the lazy route, use it as is, do a test fit and confirm no drips. Then when the power goes out during the summer windstorms I'd be scrambling to deal with a flooded living room and coral sitting in the air.

Can you charge back an out of business company?
The overflow is smoke glass. They siliconed it in the edge like standard tank, there isn’t any on inside or outside. There is some silicon in the inside bottom where the overflow meets the bottom glass, this is where I found the leak.
 
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