Kessil

Hyposalinity

When using socks expect to change them every 3 days, more if they are lower micron socks. If you can’t or won't change them roughly every 3 days, it's probably better not to have them at all. As they become a detritus trap and the stuff in them just rots in the tank and increases po4 and no3.


When water rises above the level of socks it means they are full and clogged, only gets worse the more full they are.

Water should pass through but not rise above them a Solid indicator of when to change them, likey 3-4 days for avg tank could be more or less to be fair with different tank conditions.


If you want to use pads or floss that you just toss same 3-4 days applied , water shouldn't rise above them and shouldn't be packed in the cup so tight that water backs up. You can get them for normally under $20 and Neptunes carriers them or maybe a bar member has some laying around. I would offer but I only have two remaining (gave my extra ones away already)as back ups for my own tank should I need to take a break from socks.
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Thanks Michael for the useful information.. thing I didnt understand is that even after I cleaned the socks, it was still overflowing.. Anyhow, I feel I can replace floss every few days so will give it a shot and see how it goes.. if it gets too hectic, will look into plumbing the reefmat
 
spuri87 said:
Thanks Michael for the useful information.. thing I didnt understand is that even after I cleaned the socks, it was still overflowing.. Anyhow, I feel I can replace floss every few days so will give it a shot and see how it goes.. if it gets too hectic, will look into plumbing the reefmat
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Floss is just polyester pillow fill. You can get it from Joann’s, Michael’s, hobby lobby. Etc. it’s cheap there. Some come in sheets. Some come like clouds. A puff ball.

As for the filter socks. They come in different microns. Dunno what you have. Normally it’s like 150-250 micron. If it’s not flowing. You might have 5-10 micron in there. Which would get clogged quickly
 
Turkeysammich said:
Floss is just polyester pillow fill. You can get it from Joann’s, Michael’s, hobby lobby. Etc. it’s cheap there. Some come in sheets. Some come like clouds. A puff ball.

As for the filter socks. They come in different microns. Dunno what you have. Normally it’s like 150-250 micron. If it’s not flowing. You might have 5-10 micron in there. Which would get clogged quickly
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Just make sure it's not fire retarded type of floss. With that chemical addictive
 
200 micron felt socks are great when cleaning stirring stuff up polishes the water relatively quick. But overflow after about four days and pita to clean. I flip inside out spray out with garden hose then toss in washing machine with white vinegar or sometimes bleach if real dirty but never bleach and vinegar together!
Regular basis I use 200-300 Mesh micron socks which are super easy to spray out after a quick vinegar soak! I did glue egg crate in the overflow baffle going into the return chamber making a shelf which I run original Poly-fil from Fairfieldworld witch comes in rolls/ batting or loose stuffing fil..This is useful when cleaning the sump keeping muck debris from clouding up the tank above..
However I take out all filtration socks/ floss when I go outa town.
Like Michael said above other brands use fire retardant chemicals so I stick with the original Poly-fil Fairfieldworld products which Ive spoken to directly confirming no chemicals!
I only toss is the mesh socks four days a week other three days use no mechanical filtration
 
I get the 24 inch wide filter floss then cut down to fit more universal since I use it in hang on back filters (HOB) or other things..
The Poly-fil batting works great for polishing but clogs quicker so I use floss instead or the regular Poly-fil stuffing..


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The Original Poly-fil® Premium Polyester Fiber Fill Box, 5lb. | Michaels

Purchase The Original Poly-fil® Premium Polyester Fiber Fill Box, 5lb. at Michaels.com. Craft cuddly pals at home using this Poly-fil fiber fill.
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Hypo (Day 30):
Today marks completion of 1 entire month of being in Hypo (day 1 being when I reached 1.009).. Instructions on HF and R2R says keep it in hypo from 30-35 days AFTER last spot was seen.. To keep it safe I will stay at this salinity level for another 10-15 days from now.. There are mixed reviews on how long one can keep the tank hypo, with folks suggesting 45-60 days max but other people saying they were able to keep hypo for as long as 1 year.

I see Blood spot under right fin of one of my yellow tangs. After Convict, now my Blue tang is turning into a bully.. makes me wonder if hypo plays a role in fish's agreesion.. it's not nipping (at least when I am around), but I can see it chasing the yellow tangs anytime they go close to the nori clip.. FWIW, I have 2 clips on my tank.. I see yellow's have reduced diet.. I am not sure if the blood spot is an injury or result of bullying or something else (Uronema, doesnt look like it but maybe?) Cardinal still has 1 cloudy eye, seems to be less bubbly but more like a white patch on the eye. Here is a video of the yellow tang's blood spot under the right fin, let me know if I should think about treating it or just wait & watch.


 
spuri87 said:
Hypo (Day 30):
Today marks completion of 1 entire month of being in Hypo (day 1 being when I reached 1.009).. Instructions on HF and R2R says keep it in hypo from 30-35 days AFTER last spot was seen.. To keep it safe I will stay at this salinity level for another 10-15 days from now.. There are mixed reviews on how long one can keep the tank hypo, with folks suggesting 45-60 days max but other people saying they were able to keep hypo for as long as 1 year.

I see Blood spot under right fin of one of my yellow tangs. After Convict, now my Blue tang is turning into a bully.. makes me wonder if hypo plays a role in fish's agreesion.. it's not nipping (at least when I am around), but I can see it chasing the yellow tangs anytime they go close to the nori clip.. FWIW, I have 2 clips on my tank.. I see yellow's have reduced diet.. I am not sure if the blood spot is an injury or result of bullying or something else (Uronema, doesnt look like it but maybe?) Cardinal still has 1 cloudy eye, seems to be less bubbly but more like a white patch on the eye. Here is a video of the yellow tang's blood spot under the right fin, let me know if I should think about treating it or just wait & watch.


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What are you feeding, how much, and how often?
 
Coral reefer said:
What are you feeding, how much, and how often?
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I mix and match - PE Mysis, Brine and Mysis Shrimp, LRS reef frenzy alternative I got from my LFS, Clams on the shell, fish eggs, TDO pallets, flakes.. I always try to use selcon, vitachem or lipogarlic every day unless I am in a hurry.. I have also setup auto-feeder but feel like the shy ones dont get to eat much when I use auto-feeder (thanks to greedy Blue tang and Chromis), so try to feed them manually.

I feed 2 nori sheets everyday and other stuff (randomly picked) twice a day as well.. 1 frozen cube at a time, whenever I choose to feed them frozen.
 

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spuri87 said:
I mix and match - PE Mysis, Brine and Mysis Shrimp, LRS reef frenzy alternative I got from my LFS, Clams on the shell, fish eggs, TDO pallets, flakes.. I always try to use selcon, vitachem or lipogarlic every day unless I am in a hurry.. I have also setup auto-feeder but feel like the shy ones dont get to eat much when I use auto-feeder (thanks to greedy Blue tang and Chromis), so try to feed them manually.

I feed 2 nori sheets everyday and other stuff (randomly picked) twice a day as well.. 1 frozen cube at a time, whenever I choose to feed them frozen.
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More, more often
 
More, and more often.
Not sure how many fish you have exactly, or how large. If you’re giving a cube, I always like to feed some pellets too. Why not?
I also have always used autofeeders so food goes in every day at regular times wether you remember/are home, etc…
I feel like a good quality pellet can have all the advantages of nori and is way less annoying and demanding of your time and hands in the tank and can’t be automated
I’ve never been a nori user, even when I had like 6-7 tangs. Just spectrum algae max pellets 4 x a day and frozen mysis 1-2x per day. I would also always give the feeder a spin every time I fed frozen so more like 5-6x per day for the pellets.
Obviously a more varied idea would be great, but that worked very well for me and was easy to do. I also think the pellets help with getting lots of different types of food into the diet even though it’s “just pellets” because they are made of a lot of different things.
 
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SupraSaltyReefer said:
Use two nori clips at opposite ends of the tank will help separate aggressive and shy eaters.
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Thank you, yes that’s how I use the 2 clips in my tank! Since Chromis aren’t interested in Nori, Yellows get to eat a little bit before Blue comes and scares them away.. I am hoping this will subside soon!
 
spuri87 said:
Thank you, yes that’s how I use the 2 clips in my tank! Since Chromis aren’t interested in Nori, Yellows get to eat a little bit before Blue comes and scares them away.. I am hoping this will subside soon!
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If you feed more often it will help.
Use an autofeeder w pellets.
 
spuri87 said:
Thank you, yes that’s how I use the 2 clips in my tank! Since Chromis aren’t interested in Nori, Yellows get to eat a little bit before Blue comes and scares them away.. I am hoping this will subside soon!
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Chromis and anthias are open water feeders. They don’t eat anything that’s not floating in the water column.
 
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