I'm sure @Vhuang168 would have loved to know that his coral is still being distributed in the hobby.
Maureen's Classroom DSA 105
- Thread starter MolaMola
- Start date
MolaMola
Supporting Member
So here is the current state of my tanks. A couple weeks ago they were worse.
DSA 105 mixed reef:
Only one light has been working for quite awhile (I have good lights; connection issue), so everything on the left. A month ago corals were more bleached. Bioblocks just in to seed for another tank during spring break.
DSA 105 mixed reef:
Only one light has been working for quite awhile (I have good lights; connection issue), so everything on the left. A month ago corals were more bleached. Bioblocks just in to seed for another tank during spring break.
Alexander1312
Supporting Member
I am big gyre fan, but do not know the gyres from this brand, but prices seem to be attractive. Looks like they have three models, 60 gallon, 135 gallon, 265 gallon.
Given that gyres lose strength over time until fully cleaned, I would recommend going with the middle model even though you only have 50 gallon. The other argument would be that the cheaper models flow speed are sometimes overstated, and running a more powerful device at lower speed is probably better than a lower powered device at a higher speed.
Only risk in my opinion is that these devices power settings are not well adjustable, meaning the lowest power settings could still be too strong.
Given that gyres lose strength over time until fully cleaned, I would recommend going with the middle model even though you only have 50 gallon. The other argument would be that the cheaper models flow speed are sometimes overstated, and running a more powerful device at lower speed is probably better than a lower powered device at a higher speed.
Only risk in my opinion is that these devices power settings are not well adjustable, meaning the lowest power settings could still be too strong.
MolaMola
Supporting Member
Thank you for that guidance. I am unfamiliar with gyres, so that directs me to what I would like to look into a bit.
If you order from Amazon if it doesn't work you can swap it.
I recommend on stronger than you need. You should look to only need to run it 40-60%.
No expert just me thoughts with wave makers in general. Makes them last longer less harsh wear than running one at max 24/7. It also give you room in the future to increase flow when corals grow out etc. Lastly running one a max means only future option is to add another one if more flow is needed.
For hyggers the price points between flow rates isn't a insane difference like the mp 10s, 40s, or 60s.
I would think middle option would be ideal. So hopefully the flow from it can hit the other side of the tank and curl back on it's self. I found 1 gyre was sufficient when I had my 50gallon low boy in addtion to the s1 return pump that had split returns.
I recommend on stronger than you need. You should look to only need to run it 40-60%.
No expert just me thoughts with wave makers in general. Makes them last longer less harsh wear than running one at max 24/7. It also give you room in the future to increase flow when corals grow out etc. Lastly running one a max means only future option is to add another one if more flow is needed.
For hyggers the price points between flow rates isn't a insane difference like the mp 10s, 40s, or 60s.
I would think middle option would be ideal. So hopefully the flow from it can hit the other side of the tank and curl back on it's self. I found 1 gyre was sufficient when I had my 50gallon low boy in addtion to the s1 return pump that had split returns.
MolaMola
Supporting Member
Friday evening checked phosphates in soaking rock. Definitely there after one day. Amount unknown really bc I cannot distinguish between colors on API test card (students use them bc they are cheap; students' testing is unreliable bc there's a lot going on with a classful doing tank care jobs, so I just look for abrupt changes or trends). Maybe .5-1 ppm after one day. Of course, Hanna phosphate tester was at home to check along with other kits bc I am prepping to get back into caring for tanks properly. So I check source water which was combo from 3 tanks and 2 had phosphate, I am guessing from TDO pellets. Decided to wait to seed rock with water change bacteria and first get a read on phosphate leaching, so I dumped out water and replaced with clean SW. Also saw a lot of crusty bits in the bottom from the old rock despite lots of blasting with hose after the bleach soak, so now that's out of the bucket. Curious to see phosphate test on Monday.
MolaMola
Supporting Member
Good info. I have never done this before. But probably will be doing it again at some point, since I have quite a bit of very old yet cool rock.
MolaMola
Supporting Member
So today my soaking old rock water looked like 0 or .25 ppm phosphate on API kit depending on the light. Hanna UL tester using years-expired phosphate sachet (fresh coming soon) came up with 200 ppb, so my rock is leaching some. I could just change out the water tomorrow and/or add some Phosguard if it could be in a bag suspended in front of a powerhead since it is in a 1/3 full Brute can. Any suggestion?
Phosguard might help in a limited capacity. It not the same as having all the water forced through it as if you had it in a filter sock or cup under a drain to the sump. It'll have some effect for sure just couldn't guess how much.
I would personally let them soak for roughly 2-3 days than 100% water change. Giving a little time let's water get deeper in them.
From one change to the next you should definitely see a decrease in po4. How much of a decrease will give you a fair guess of how many water changes it might take.
Also would help if you gave very breif rinse of rocks with ro and the brute. To remove anything that may have fell of during the soak before new water.
I'm honestly not even sure uf this needs to be saltwater or if you could just use rodi which would be easier and cheaper.
Looks like rodi would work since your trying to stop them from. Leaching and not actively trying to cure or seed them.
MolaMola
Supporting Member
interesting - thanks! Never crossed my mind to just use RODI.
Yea so you can do it until hitting zero p04 paying for that much salt would suck over time.