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Presumably you mean Chaeto growing in a fuge. I have been running an Algae Turf scrubber for about 15 years now. I have also tried Chaeto and Carbon dosing. Like above : An ATS is really Chaeto on steroids. Plus, you do not have the problem of poor tumble/flow and hair algae clogging and...

Note that some LFS will order if for you. No real markup, and can eliminate a lot of hassle on ordering, shipping, and especially if there is a chip or crack.

+1 on Brute for cheap and simple. But putting a spigot in is tricky. Usually just use a pump. If you want something fancy, you need containers like this. https://www.plastic-mart.com/category/109/vertical-tanks Farm supply stores carry things like that.

I have heard both ways stated as fact. I just can't find that study. Frustrating. I just don't know. On one side, all those tiny bubbles have huge surface area. But, the true turnover from main tank through skimmer is rather poor, especially compared with surface and a powerhead. Plus some...

Wow, had no idea it really went that high. From random searching : Earth average seems to be around 400. Stuffiness and odor complaints: 600-1000 ppm. ASHRAE and OSHA requirements: 1000 ppm. Drowsiness: 1000-2500 ppm in general. Irritability: 2500 ppm or more. Death: 84,000 ppm

If you are really interested in a CO2 scrubber, PM me, and let me know. I should have some parts around. I tried it. It made a noticeable difference in PH. It made no difference in corals. So I stopped bothering.

Seems like a waste of time. The difference between CO2 inside and outside is likely a tiny percentage. ( If not, you have bigger problems than the tank.) You also have a ton of gas exchange from the surface of your tank. (Likely more than the skimmer) So the equilibrium point will be pretty...

FYI: This is considered the go-to standard really good advice on parameters by a lot of people. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/ There is some debate on NO3/PO4 targets, especially on more established tanks. But Randy definitely knows his stuff!

It is unlikely to be a problem with rock, but bio-diversity is a good thing, so seems like a good plan regardless. +1 on how are they dying. In particular, from the base up, or tips down. And do they instantly get covered in algae, or are they white for a while. Phosphates are high. You might...

Sorry, Yes. I was confused because you said heat pumps dehumidify, and it ran together in my mind.

To save money on heating the tank: 1) Add solar hot water system to your entire house. Have a large heat exchange water storage tank. Have a few evacuated tube solar collectors/panels. (The look a lot like the electrical ones, but make hot water instead) Plus some pumps and things. That gives...

I think you have that humidity backwards. High humidity = less evaporation. Zero when it hits 100%.

A key thing to remember regarding Solar: Baseline cost = $0.18 per KWH 100% - 200% = $0.24 200% + = $0.4 (Average, multiply that by time of use, etc) And of course add all the fixed fees. So: You save big if you can bring the 200% down to 100% or baseline, and you do not really need to sell...

Always check the small print in your insurance. Some care about DIY, some do not. For a while, regardless of DIY, State Farm would not pay if for any month in the year you sent more power than you received because you were a "business"

It is also very expensive to fix a leak. A pigeon problem caused a leak. Had to get the solar company to remove the panels, then the roof company to fix the leak, then the solar panel company to put the panels back up. All those trips really added up.

I don't think the solar companies are the big problem, other than upselling. It is really PGE and the whole way grid attached billing is done. Agree : DIY and taking your tank almost completely off grid is the way to go. Solar electric for the equipment. Solar water for the heating. But that is...

One thing many people do not realize : Over-filling your tank with livestock really increases expense! If you have a fairly open tank, lots of extra water, lots of live rock, and a smaller set of fish and coral, you can run almost everything naturally. No need for endless fancy equipment. It...

Beware the cycle of Dooooooom. Minor equipment failures -> frustration causing you to ignore tank -> major equipment failure not noticed -> tank crash. We had some big family losses here as well, making the tank a very low priority. 2022 was a really bad year...

With the normal programming they will not turn off and on that much during the day. Since it is not a motor or switching power supply, the current draw when you turn it off/on is pretty well behaved. So as long as you are well below 10A, which a normal 200 watt or so heater would be, I do not...

There is an advantage to doing it the other way around: (Set the inkbird to failsafe at 78, and let Apex do control at 77) The advantage is that you can use the Apex current sensor as an alarm, that will tell you if the heater dies. It is unclear which has better relays, so while that might...