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I have mixed praziquantel and prime together with no ill effects. I can almost guarantee that your main display has ich if you haven’t quarantined anything in the past. The chances are pretty high. I use freshly mixed saltwater for quarantine to reduce chances of cross contamination. Divers...

Whenever I receive new fish I put them in an observation tank for at least two weeks before starting tank transfer. After tank transfer is complete I move them into another (sterile) observation tank where I try to fatten them up. I recommend running praziquantel (prazipro) and feeding...

*facepalm*

I have found that juveniles do much better long term compared to transitioning adults. They are much easier to get eating and adapt to captivity faster. - Nice collection! I have C. bathyphilus, A. neoguinaicus, C. nahackyi pair, C. rhomboidalis, P. ataenia, P hexataenia , M. negrosensis, W...

Yup, Crystal Dynamics is top notch. I had my tank built by them. No complaints.

I have the Ecotech Vectra M1 and L1. Both have been running flawlessly for over a year. Im using the L1 as a return to the display and the M1 for my chiller and frag tank. Both are super quiet and easy to calibrate/set up. My only complaint is that they are unable to connect to my apex WXM.

A sex joke?!?!?! @Ashalye!!!!!

Nice! Ecotech driver mount?

Ich attack is a herbal treatment and while it may suppress ich, it will not effectively kill the parasite.

It is used to manage ich, not to fully eradicate it. I would avoid it. At this time there is no known reef safe medication to eliminate ich. Moving the fish to an isolated quarantine tank and treating with copper, CP, hyposalinity, or tank transfer method are the only known effective ways to...

If you are going with #3 here is a good read; https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/

Lol.. Sorry I kinda went off topic haha. IME pyrex is reef safe. I have used it for sand before and have a friend who is using it in his frag tank.

C. earlei generally stay under 4 inches but are - IME - less active swimmers than C. jordani, lubbocki, bathyphilus, etc which are more active/aggressive and therefore require more space.

The only Cirrhilabrus wrasse I would recommend to a 40 gallon would be C. earlei. All others will eventually outgrow the system.

IMO Many wrasses in the genus Cirrhilabrus such as ones in the Cyanopluera, rubriventralis, and scottorum complexes will require a larger tank, as they get rather large and aggressive. However, as mentioned above Pseudocheilinops ataenia or any Wetmorella wrasse would be suitable as they stay...

Ah, Pseudocheilinops ataenia would be perfect then :).

Why barebottom? You could go with Pseudocheilinus wrasses which don’t require sand and are great at controlling certain pests.

Where are you watching it?

Nice! Mine loves PE mysis pellets but can only snag a few before the foxface gets them all.

Also interested in one if you decide to sell or part with some :). Going to try to make a top down viewer for pictures as said above