Yes, I looked at those quite a bit.
Not a lot of detail on which LEDs were used, but I never directly asked.
I think at this point though I simply want to build some crazy overkill design.
So that inspired me to dig through some ANCIENT photos, trying to find my first tank.
I sort-of of did.
This is from about 1975.
You can just see the tank in the corner.
Plus some goofy kid. Ignore him. :-)
I mixed my own two part for years, but switched back to B-ionic, and it was noticeable to me. (Anecdotal of course)
The problem was that DIY two part is purely calcium chloride and sodium carbonate.
You then have to dose all the other elements, and the only one you can reasonably test is...
It is normal.
Note that this imbalance causes an extra hassle : B-ionic and only sell additives as a balanced set.
So if you want just Alk, you have to buy a different brand or DIY it. The brand is one issue, but a big problem is that the concentration may be different.
Interesting about the DC pump variation. Never experienced that myself.
FYI: I simply use dual cheaper pumps. Redundancy over quality. Various pros/cons, so each to their own strategy.
I have had many brands fail, including the RD on my skimmer (controller failed).
I will say that Royal...
The tank transfer method they mention should get rid of ich quite reliably. So your experience makes me skeptical they are doing what they say,
or are doing it to the required quality and eliminating cross contamination.
Although it is possible to have a tank that has low level latent ich...
It does not seem that secretive to me. Tons of details here.
https://strikersreefing.com/blogs/news/our-quarantine-conditioning-process
Basically says:
They do tank transfer method every 24 hours for 2 weeks.
Plus various baths and medicines for parasites and such. They mention specific drugs...
Advice : Make it larger than you think is needed, keep it away from moisture, and and remember to have some airflow.
Mine started out well, then expanded, then expanded some more.
Not meant to be fancy obviously.
There are really 3 part.
Larger in general.
Make sure there is enough thickness in the sold base, to pull heat away to the fins.
Spread out the LEDs a little bit. Not enough to cause disco bands, but enough to avoid points of high heat.
The power supplies and drivers will be sealed IP67. They...
They are way out of warranty.
But the key thing is that I no longer trust them. 3 of 12 are basically dead. Several more have visibly burned lenses.
I could fix them, but in a few years some will likely fail again.
So anything spent is throwing good money after bad.
When I am done with the...
I have a somewhat remote sump in the garage. Very handy to not have to dig around under the display tank.
At that head pressure, most of the normal pumps will not work.
You probably need something like a Reeflo Hammerhead.
The pipes do get a fair bit of detritus, yes. What I did was put a Tee...
I originally had DIY LED lights, but these were mostly Cool White + Royal Blue.
I had a could of reds and things added on, but it was not great.
So I went and spent a lot upgrading to AI-Prime lights.
Unfortunately, the UV LEDs blow out, taking other circuits with them, so now many are dead.
So...
I guess I like a different aesthetic.
Rimless looks great .... except you still have these big lights above it. Plus often ugly return pipes, and usually a bathtub ring of crud.
In particular, the outside glare from the lights can be annoying.
So I am a bit old school in that I like a low...
If you care about accuracy, you need to clean your PH probe.
Crud builds up and messes with the measurements.
They have special cleaning solutions you soak the probe in.
https://milwaukeeinstruments.com/milwaukee-cleaning-solution-for-ph-orp-electrodes-230ml/
Now me ... I don't care that much...