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So ... I would not recommend that. Would it "work" : YES Underwater epoxy repair is used a lot for concrete cracks, especially pools. So you can buy kits like these easily: https://aquabondadhesives.com/underwater-repair-compound Should cure fine and be structurally solid. BUT : You need...

How noisy are the Maxspect XF350 these days? I bought one of the first generation Gyres, and it was annoyingly loud.

You need this on top of your tank. But with more lasers. Lots more. :-)

Yep. :-) I had quite a bit of automation and redundancy, but never enough I guess. Actually ... The root cause: I have not been keeping up on cleaning and replacing old equipment. Things do wear out after 12 years of use.

Cleaning up a dead mess is pretty hard to convert to fun I am afraid... But the chance to start over with something a bit different might be. Plus I may go back to DIY LEDs. That could be a fun project.

TO DO LIST: Clean, clean, and clean some more. Pull out all the dead/dying stuff. Probably pull out each rock and maybe even power wash them. It is going to take a while.... Probably reduce rock in DT a bit. It was a bit crowded. So some rocks may never go back in. Get water parameters...

Major tank crash. Over the last few months I had quite a few equipment problems: One of the sump pumps failed. Not a huge deal, but it took a while to notice, and it really slows flow and skimmer. Heater failed. The alk dosing pump failed, causing a big imbalance. That was really bad. Killed...

Agree. That is basically the one thing that Neptune Systems does well. Their hardware is not crap, but it is a long ways from great. So if they lose that edge, they are going to start losing market share quickly.

Personally, I would hate to see a fan added to any of these products. That just means you are adding dust and moving parts to list of things that will fail. But I totally agree that heat and moisture are a serious problems for all these products. I moved my Apex/etc well away from my skimmer...

Note that if you are coming in from the garage, there are fire code issues to worry about.

Opinion: Yes, TDS creep is what you mention. It is really only a significant problem if you tie your RO directly to the tank, such that it goes on/off all the time, for very short periods. If you fill a 50G Brute, maybe once a week, it is basically a non-issue. +1 on a flaot valve as a backup...

Great video. I have seen so many people go away in frustration for the same reason. - They get a new tank. - They mess with it like crazy. - They put in high end corals right away. - And it all dies under a big blanket of Cyano .... It is not like I was any better. The only different between...

So maybe do the entire sump. It has a weir also. And perhaps an airstone. Might want an air dryer though. That moisture might be terrible for the scrubber. Actually, I might seriously do that. Not so much for the tank. But because my sump is in the garage, and my tools are rusting like crazy.

A fun question: What if you made your own air? 1) Completely seal the tank and sump. Actually pretty easy. Or at least mostly sealed. A few leaks might be a benefit. 2) Put in a CO2 scrubber, that scrubs the entire air in the sealed system. I would argue this uses LESS media than our skimmer...

Very true that tank surface can be a problem. But if so, why not fix that first? Just point a powerhead up a bit. Massive boundary layer flow and surface agitation. Better shimmer also. Maybe I am misunderstanding. Is the weir suggestion building some tower with overflowing water? That might be...

I used the Avast Marine works kalk stirrer with a peristaltic pump on Apex. It stirs constantly. You push in RODI, and a bit of water dribbles out. It generally worked fairly reliably. If you want a reactor, I would recommend it. Kalk definitely brought up Alk levels. There was a slight boost in...

For a weir, surface area is width of sump * height of drop. Likely around 24" x 4". That is pretty small compared to the surface are of your tank, so I am a bit skeptical on getting great results overall. But I agree that flow and surface agitation / boundary would be GREAT. And it is basically...

Definitely seems pretty good. You rely on your return pump though, not a powehead, which is substantially less flow. Plus, generating tiny bubbles may be an issue. You can chop them, or you can use higher pressure through a smaller pore. The latter reduces air flow.

Not saying you are wrong, but I can see two issues with the saturation problem: 1) A bubble is only around for a few seconds normally. (Other than a skimmer or some micro-bubbles) It would really surprise me if it reached saturation level in that short of a time. 2) Tiny amount of CO2...

So I did some quick calculations on the side, perhaps poorly, but hopefully not. Assuming a large ($50 or so) air pump at 20 LPM. With a 0.5 mm bubble, you have about the same surface area as a 4'x2' tank. With a 0.05 mm bubble, you have about 10X the surface area as a 4'x2' tank. And then...