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Agree to do as they recommend and leave it on. I actually turn it off for a while at night to hopefully let snails crawl out and debris to dislodge. The Dove snails I got a while ago keep getting stuck in the 3D printed channel that directs the outflow of the mixing pump. Super annoying since...

I mostly buy non-livestock from bulkreefsupply, saltwateraquarium, and Amazon. I have also bought from the other 3 mentioned in the first post and they are ok too. I’m happy to buy from local stores but they usually don’t have specifically what I’m looking for when it comes to supplies. And...

The most cost effective solution in our hobby is to not be in it. Everything after that is not the optimal solution so it’s just a matter of value of the cost vs what you are getting or avoiding for your money. And of course time value vs money value is different for everyone. Such personal...

I don’t recommend it personally, but if one wanted to add dry CaOH2, you could probably do so with a Plank. You would need a mixing chamber in your sump so that you have some level of confidence that it is mixed in before getting out into your display. It does dissolve quickly, just not to a...

Getting back to the original question, the answer is- No, or at least not just calcium hydroxide (aka kalkwasser) for a SPS dominant tank. CaOH2 can be fantastic for a baseline level of easy Ca and alk supplementation with pH stabilization, up to the level of evaporation. Once you hit that level...

I have the Neptune Apex probe. Been running solid for years, only rarely do I need to recalibrate, like every couple years. That said, I would always recalibrate first if I see numbers that I don’t expect or that might cause me to change something.

lol at your little leak-catcher! Nice work, BUT I’m a little worried for you at how you have the black UV positioned. You want to make it so they never have any possibility to run dry while on (= catastrophe like quartz glass explosion and electrocution), and also don’t want large air bubbles...

Proper Mg levels stabilize Ca and Alk (prevent abiotic precipitation). So if you were having low-Mg related losses in Ca, and now you aren’t after improving your Mg level, then your Ca dosing may be more than you need.

Agree first steps to verify calibration, give more details on your from->to switch. That said, those numbers are fine. Normal/optimal is around 8.3 and your average is about 8.4.

Don’t worry you aren’t gotcha-ing me, because I think you are saying the same thing I started with, that they are functionally about the same. :) Since you were getting into it with diagrams and math and stuff I was just pointing out that having 2 units in 1 system is different than 2 systems...

Same exposure for the water going through, yes. But assuming you are saying the setup with 2 UV’s is twice the wattage of the 1 UV setup, the one going through 2 UV’s at twice the rate is treating twice as much water/pests per unit time, and also importantly giving the pests half as much time to...

Having a high coral-to-water ratio causes instability since the consumption and replenishment go up and any perturbations have larger effects. You can decrease the amount of consuming coral, increase the amount of water to have more buffer against changes, or get more serious with auto testing.

Toss it. Or get the company to replace it. I like K&J as above. Also I find the Oceans Wonders coated magnets to be great and generally super useful around the tank-...

Taking anything to the logical extreme will make it seem ridiculous. Of course there’s more nuance than what you read as a guide from BRS or where ever. UV causes DNA breaks. Some breaks are bad for survival or reproduction, some aren’t. Many are in between, they are bad in certain...

It’s UV exposure- intensity level (watts) x seconds exposed (inverse of gph). So having them in series means twice the exposure, the equivalent of running half the flow rate (like Randy said). That said, having them in parallel is probably just about as good since on average you’ll be delivering...

Sorry I don’t have anything useful to add in the electrical engineering department. But for me the takeaway is that you unfortunately are having to deal with crappy products and apparently no manufacturer support and I should stay away from the brand(s) in question. So to clarify, these are...

Too bad the police are not interested in solving and prosecuting property crimes. Even if we all said, “Hey that’s Jimmy!” nothing would happen.

Eric’s just gonna do a partial tank breakdown while Joel isn’t looking. Frag ‘em up, move ‘em out.

I never used the wifi InkBirds because they get poor reviews. I have a bunch of the old school non-wifi ones and never had a problem with any. But all temperature controllers I use have backups carefully designed to avoid fail-on, fail-off, and gross miscalibration failures.

What are you suggesting is better? Ranco’s specs are less accurate and don’t show decimals, for comparison.