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I've been using these too for years. Haven't found a replacement brand yet so I get them when they're on 20% or more sale.

Got to get a tour of their farm but couldn't take pictures back there. They have something like 15 ten foot fiberglass raceways all lit by Gen 4 Radions. Some of the tanks are still killer under old school AI Hydra 52s. All the tanks still use aqualogic temperature controllers too. The double...

Had some time before our flight left so we visited WWC's superstore. If you haven't been here, it's a pretty massive LFS. The mangrove tank is looking amazing and they definitely have to prune the tree a ton now since it's almost up at the lights. The coral and fish tanks go along the back...

If the teacher wants to join here to learn, we could definitely sponsor a membership

@spuri87 is the fish scratching on the sand? I think that's one dead giveaway for flukes right @SupraSaltyReefer ?

There was a thread recently with people posting what they use: https://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/what-are-you-currently-using-for-testing-and-do-you-plan-to-upgrade-a-pole.39195/ Summary is that Hanna is good for some of the harder to read tests. Salifert is great for speed.

Add the prime to your ATO too! I'm leaning to the chloramine stressing the acanthurus (the other fish look clean). The mucus looks chunky, not like cryptocaryon or velvet. Edit: the trick with the clip is folding the nori as many times as you can so they can graze on it longer during the day...

Probably easier to get some dechlorinator like Prime in the meantime. Then just use the water coming out of the rodi assuming your DI isn't exhausted (check the color). Keep feeding it well too, that algae clip looks empty. If it isn't eating well then that's a bad sign.

One thing to note, my tank appeared level until I filled it, probably floor settling. I also saw differences with putting the level into the tank vs. on the edges, might be helpful to check during leak testing.

Might be hard to use the freeze dried foods @enlighten without the plank. The real innovation on it is the pump chamber which mixes and rehydrates the food so it doesn't just float away. @Alexander1312 dki pellets are what Biota raise their fish on. I had to start mine on them initially.

I knew it wouldn't be long before you ran out of room!

I remember reading that post last year and made some changes afterwards. I've noticed that switching from pellets to freeze dried whole food helped make a huge difference on my phosphate accumulation. Feeding 7x a day with freeze dried vs. 2x pellets led me to have lower levels. Of course you...

I've been uploading to YouTube for mine, they embed well here

You might have issues posting photos here if you're on iPhone due to the file size. That's part of the site upgrade that's in progress. You can screenshot the photo then upload if needed or dump them into a Google drive folder and share the link.

Common in the pond world too. Keep in mind it's a carbon source so be careful.

The clam holders are 3.25" long. Largest Maxima is just slightly smaller. The crocea on the left was added later and started about 1.5", now maybe 2.25".

These all started 1-2", never fed phyto. Just light and fish food/poop particles.

Getting healthy clams seems to be the key I've found. The wild ones lately from Vietnam and Palau seem to carry the parasite. Mine have all been from ORA and trouble free, much like the older batches of clams like I guess Arnold's are/were. That plus blasting them with light (450+ umol of...

For stability you might want to have the structure rest on the glass not the sand. If a fish or crab starts burrowing under a side it could collapse. You might be able to get away without the flat base rock too and put that low and to the right side to get more space to grow things. ...

If you're having stale air issues, you can install an HRV unit. The practical example is a fart in an elevator. Turning on a fan won't reduce the smell, it's just going to spread it around. You need to open the door or a vent outside to exchange the air.