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This is definitely true. My display tanks nearly always have a distinct thermocline about 12" below the surface, so I like to place a long heater on the back wall of the DT. I also have a sump heater on an independent controller. Its temperature probe is upstream of the heater. The Apex...

Yes, for this DBTC to work, we all have to be prepared to catch the little buggers once they eat all of the Aptasia in our systems. If you're lucky, you'll find them crawling around the water line after the lights go out, but it's more likely to find them in your filter socks or crawling around...

I'll echo others here -- the only thing that really makes me notice my power bill is lighting. A good LED setup, such as Ecotech Radions or Kessil A360s, is extremely efficient.

Actually, I’ve been treated very well by Ecotech’s tech support on second-hand equipment. I’ve had both a wet side and a dry side fail where they gave me a very attractive upgrade price on a new unit. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I tried Tropic Marin Pro because that's the salt that the guru of reef chemistry, Randy Holmes-Farley uses. I've never looked back. I noticed as you did that it mixes up quickly and the parameters stabilize very quickly as well. When I do water changes with it, my corals do not retract or slime...

Matt is taking a break from the hobby, though he did keep some of his gear. I bought his DSA-105 and attached frag tank with all live stock and running gear. We moved all that stuff in stages, everything made it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought a system from Matt @coral4me that included a few DBTCs, including this one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is doing great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve found Yumas under a pile of live rock and ghostly white. As others have said, high nutrient water and light. I use the water change water I vacuum out of my DTs and sumps. I gradually ramp up the light intensity, starting them in the shade and then slowly moving them right under a lamp...

Right, hence the need for an additional female-female NPT adapter. It's a kludge, but it's an in-stock kludge. :p

Home Depot carries this part: https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Guest-1-4-in-O-D-x-1-2-in-MIP-NPTF-Polypropylene-Push-to-Connect-Adapter-Fitting-803309/300753463 at which point you can use a 1/2" F-F NPT adapter.

@Chromis did a workshop on assembling DIY mesh tops. I think the supplies came from BRS, but maybe she can confirm?

I do ~15% (25 gallons) weekly on a total volume of ~150G bare bottom mixed reef. I'm skimming fairly dry with a Vertex Omega 180. I have a chaeto section in my sump.

I do have an idle 3155, I'll have to see if it will fit in the AIO compartment the 3152 is currently in.

So I now have a third failed Tunze Nano unit. They always fail the same way -- they start filling over top of the float switch, not tripping off until they hit the time limit. Yes, the float switch is floating freely and yes I can *manually* trip the ATO by moving the float with my fingers...

I'd like to avoid completely stripping the rock, but it may come to that. I've had the rock out of the tank several times and chiseled away the GSP covered areas with a hammer and a screwdriver. It's come back every time. This was all complicated by having a really nice Pink BTA that had its...

If I leave a piece of live rock with GSP on it outside in the sun for a couple of days, will that kill the GSP? Asking for a friend ...

https://www.spectrapure.com/product-category/sale/

Well, I’ve hired Personal Castles cleaning service. They’re doing a great job and no harsh chemicals. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Every crab or shrimp I’ve ever had, with the exception of the skunk cleaner, has been an opportunistic omnivore in my tank. I’ve seen Emeralds hang upside down on a pillar with claws extended, spending endless hours trying to catch my fish. They do eat bubble algae, but I’ve only rarely had them...