Cali Kid Corals

a240reef's newb reef

a240reef

a240reef

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I borrowed this from RYGH to organize my thoughts.

BUDGET
Objective: less than $10k
Spent so far: $6k

TANK SIZE:
150 gallon tru vu
Length = 60"
Width = 24"
Height = 24"

Used tank. Formerly Freshwater

TANK STAND
Currently: custom used maple stand.
Target: 2inch steel tubing custom stand.

CANOPY
Currently: custom used maple canopy
Target: Steel tubing height adjustable canopy rack

FISH
Fish load will include: six line wrasse, onyx clowns, algae blennies, cherub angels and eventually going anthias/bannerfish/purple tang

REEF
Zooanthids/Ricordea eventually going to clams/LTAs/Carpets

INVERTS
Turbos replaced by Blue Legged

INVERTS
Homemade fresh frozen seafood blended and refrozen with cyclopleeze and vitamins with nori supplements.

ROCK
Dr Foster Smith’s (2) 35 lbs of Foundation Rock
Dr Foster Smith’s (1) 90 lbs of Fiji Premium Life Rock
Dr Foster Smith’s (1) 45 lbs Fiji Rock

AQUASCAPING
I really like the idea of two islands separated by a swimming channel diagonal across the tank. Each island will have tunnels/caves/and at least two column tier of shelving for frags.

LIGHTING
60” Aquailluminations SOL Blue LED with controller

FILTRATION
AquaC-400 Skimmer

SUMP
75 glass with custom baffles
Dual Eheim 1262 return. One for backup.
Fuge with Caulpera, Carbon Bag,
Future: return manifold to Calc Reactors, Phoshate

EQUIPMENT ROOM
RO/DI will be setup in backyard with custom sink. May change to Laundry room tie-in to garage.
300 GPD RO/DI Bulkreefsupply

CIRCULATION
Eheim 1262 return
2 MP40W with battery backup

CONTROLLER
TBD (leaning towards profilux b/c of AI LED)

TEMPERATURE
TBD
 
Looks like a good plan to me!

Not sure I would ditch the turbo snails, but I have so much algae I cannot really comment.

Steel stands/canopies are expensive and rust.
You might consider just updating/tweaking the current maple cabinet.
But really depends more on aesthetics and sump access.

I am not a big fan of glass sumps. You end up changing a lot of things over time, drilling holes, etc.
Might be easier and cheaper to buy an old acrylic 75G tank.

Hmm, 300 GPD RO/DI. Big, and not a bad idea. I may want to rent it to fill my main tank the first time.
My little 35 GPD actually takes about 2 days for 30 gallons, and may take forever to fill.

Dual 1262 pumps seem like a good plan.
Plumbing should not be too hard. Probably want dual overflows, one on each end.
Dual 1" return lines, one per pump. Not sure if you want flow-accelerators or not.
A suggestion (although a pain and noisier) is to plumb the pumps outside the tank, to avoid heat transfer.

A thought on each overflow-> sump: Use two pipes each. A 3/4", and a 1.5"
The 3/4" should be set up to run full-siphon, so both ends underwater.
That ends up sending most of the water, then do a simple durso-like connector on the 1.5"
Water in full-siphon is 100% quiet.
With just a small bit of water in the larger non-siphon, it barely gurgles at all.
Although at 900 gph, maybe 1" with a valve, instead of 3/4"

Agree with above - use Cheato, not Caulerpa.
 
Exciting plan! Look forward to watching your tank build.
I recommend using a different macroalgae in your refugium.
http://www.sccat.net/#the-caulerpa-information-center-1e86c5

I have a single Eheim 1262 pump as my return, hard-plumbed and going to both corners of the tank. Provides enough flow for the 150 gallon tank. Recently added flow accelerators, which do seem to work.
 
I disagree with rygh... steel stands don't have to be super pricey and if treated right don't rust. I've seen plenty of them and most had no rust issues.

Not sure I would trust a charub with a clam, several I have kept took to nibbling on the mantels. I've also had sixlines kill new introductions so be careful :)
 
id have to agree with Gresham on the 6 line.

If it were possible to magnify the devils sperm 100x youd see a pissed off sixline. I kept one in a 180 gal and it gladly punked ANY new addition to the tank. The only reason i kept it was because i couldnt catch it.
 
There's a good thread on RC about steel stands and coating it with primer and then truck bed liner that seems to do the trick. I'd say cost is not an issue especially after you dump $3k on AI LED lights. :bigsmile: haha The tru-vu I bought used did come with dual overflows and standpipes. The setup I bought also came with a del rio 240 wet dry but I don't really know how I can incorporate it or turn it into a fuge or something. Bioballs are going in my father's koi pond setup.

The custom stand is tricky to modify and probably needs a good professional opinion. I"ll figure out how to post pictures of what I have and start giving you guys a visual aid. I also just downloaded sketchup and we'll start messing around with that as the weeks come along.

A part of me is tempted to just buy a huge rubbermaid tub and make an impromptu sump. My friend used a glass tank for his sump and didn't have any issues. Some flex with the baffles but doable. If I find a cheap sump on CL that's acryllic i might swing that way. Otherwise I might just go down to the local acryllic store and have them custom fab one for me.
 
Tap plastics will grip you for any custom work. I inquired about some when doing my tank. Id check out Kritter tanks if i needed any custom acrylic work done.
 
finalphaze987 said:
Tap plastics will grip you for any custom work. I inquired about some when doing my tank. Id check out Kritter tanks if i needed any custom acrylic work done.
Click to expand...
+1 Plus Tap Plastics does not guarentee against leaks. For my setup I have a Tru Vu sump and have a rubbermade garbage can as my refugium. Using and old glass tank that you put baffles in works just fine as does a rubbermade bin.
 
+1 on using Kritter instead of Tap plastics.
That is where I had my custom tank made.

You can also DIY your own sump of course. Not really that hard. My preference is plywood, but acrylic is simpler.
I think I am a bit biased, (like with metal stand issue). I really like woodworking.

Dang, $3K on lights. You will get that back with the reduced electricity/bulb costs though.
Also, with LEDs, and some care not to introduce a lot of heat from pumps, you may
get by without a chiller.
 
Only way to know for sure with a chiller or not is set up your tank and see how it runs, and then when the heat wave hits either be ready to run fans across the top, air condition your house, or let the tank get too hot. My tank in sf usually is 76-78, but it did get to 84 two days when it was crazy hot! Luckily no proble s this summer, I want to have a chiller ready by next year so I don't have to worry. A bad heat wave can ruin a tank if you don't watch it close! So while you likely don't NEED one, I like to have it anyways
 
I certainly cannot fault people for rather being safe than sorry.
A couple of alternatives:
1) A temperature controlled fan blowing hard across the water in your sump can really cool things fast.
Our heat is dry, so evaporative cooling works great. But you need a good automatic top off.
2) You can freeze water in plastic jugs, then drop the jugs (closed) into the sump.
Great for cooling smaller systems, but only if you are home.
 
So I did explore the route of a chiller. I found a drop in aqua logic used on craigslist in south san jose for $400 (retails for $950) but the chiller came without a temperature controller. My question is if it's necessary to have a controller? I've heard of some setups where the chiller will turn on/off depending on temperature parameters you set it at.
 
IMO some type of secondary control is needed. A dual stage Ranco is a "standard" and quite the workhordr. I'd pass on the Aqualogic though.
 
Oceanic makes a chiller that has a plug in for a heater so it controls both. I've been using one one a clients tank for two years and have been very happy. I prefer online chillers rather than the drop in probe type. Having a controller is something you'll want eventually (if you are dropping that much on lights it's really not too expensive comparitively) so maybe just get one to start and it can run a chiller or fans like rygh was talkin about
 
In my 107 gallon system, I use a TR-15 Seachill Teco chiller that has a built-in heater chamber. The common digital thermostat will not allow them to fight and it's been entirely dependable for a year. http://www.aquacave.com/seachill-tr-15-15-hpbr-aquarium-chiller-by-teco-1009.html
 
Theoretically, when hot out, you could run the chiller full-time, and the heaters will turn on if
it gets a bit cool. Any decent size heater will pretty easily beat a chiller.
Since it is only hot a few days a year, it is not that crazy.
Controller is better though.

My controller is an Arduino microcontroller, 1-wire temp sensor, and some relays.
But that is me. As usual, there are issues with DIY. My DIY probe leaked, and sensor leads rusted.
But it is like $2 for a new one, so who cares. I will fix it before next summer.
FYI : I also tried the thermocouple route. They do work, even for a moderately sized system. But
really only pull about 50 Watts out each. Fans are better.
 
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