Kessil

Best way to keep nitrate down on Nano tank

Where are your nitrates at and where are you trying to get them?

I’d suggest regular (weekly) water changes, regularly changing floss/sock filter media, adding live rock or, if room is tight, live rock rubble/marine pure ceramic bioballs, running bio pellets in a media reactor, not over feeding. One, and certainly a combination, of these would help reduce nitrates.
 
Do you have room for a HOB breeder box attached to the Tank? I put chaeto in a small fluval breeder box, with a low powered motor and some cheap grow lights. It keeps nitrates in check and supports pod population.

Well, it took my nitrates to 0 so now I control the number of hours i overflow water into that box using Kasa Wi-Fi switch and schedule.

Hope it helps.


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What does stocking and feeding look like?

I would say that best approach is some type of refugium, but even that will still need to be accompanied by a water change if it isn’t big enough to handle the bio load.
 
Salt water exchange system.
Sounds complex, but is really just 2 peristaltic pumps, a timer or Apex, and two water containers.
Since it only uses 2 small 1/4 tubes, which can be any length, you can put the containers almost anywhere, like in a nearby closet.
As a bonus, it really helps stabilize the water chemistry, which is always an issue with Nanos.
 
How about this for an answer? You don't. Grow more coral and let them take the nitrates down. Last time I checked nitrates it was ~40 in my tank (high nutrient system). Not saying you should emulate that, but it can be successful.

But on a nano ... water changes
 
Water changes for the win, carbon dosing (keeping an eye on phosphates not getting too low either) if you want to do the easiest thing possible.
 
B’s Nano Reef said:
Where are your nitrates at and where are you trying to get them?

I’d suggest regular (weekly) water changes, regularly changing floss/sock filter media, adding live rock or, if room is tight, live rock rubble/marine pure ceramic bioballs, running bio pellets in a media reactor, not over feeding. One, and certainly a combination, of these would help reduce nitrates.
Click to expand...
12/13 is what they were I did 10g water change and will test again tomorrow
 
rygh said:
Salt water exchange system.
Sounds complex, but is really just 2 peristaltic pumps, a timer or Apex, and two water containers.
Since it only uses 2 small 1/4 tubes, which can be any length, you can put the containers almost anywhere, like in a nearby closet.
As a bonus, it really helps stabilize the water chemistry, which is always an issue with Nanos.
Click to expand...
My issue is I’m newly married and live in a one bedroom apartment and wanna keep things as clean as possible. Don’t really have room for buckets or an rodi
 
Schmitty said:
That’s what I’m gonna start with seems easiest… 5g weekly and if that’s not enough 10g…
Click to expand...
A tip is to really think about how to make water changes easy.
Sounds like a full water exchange is out. Understand.

But perhaps:
High quality collapsable 5G water containers to buy salt water at LFS and transport.
Maybe a nice water absorbing mat. Maybe a long tube that reaches the toilet.
Maybe clamps to hold tubes, and a folding table to set things on.
Maybe a small inline pump to push water in/out.
Small, easy to store items, to make life easy.

Why all that : Because the easier it is, the more likely you will keep doing it.
 
rygh said:
Why all that : Because the easier it is, the more likely you will keep doing it.
Click to expand...
This is exactly how I operate but with mixing my own water (I live far from natural sea water sellers). Make it too easy to come up with an excuse not to.

I have a heater, maxi jet and thermometer that never leave the water change bucket. The same tubing to draw out water from the display fits the nozzle of the maxijet so pumping in the clean water is a snap.
 
Schmitty said:
That’s what I’m gonna start with seems easiest… 5g weekly and if that’s not enough 10g…
Click to expand...
Just make sure to test phosphates now and then. You can back off the carbon dosing if P gets below .04ppm, or start dosing phosphate up to .08ppm if you don’t want it to limit your nitrate removal.
 
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