1% water change per day is nothing when in the middle of a crash. That’s just maintenance, and not dissimilar overall to most people’s water change. I still think large water changes when you have an unknown problem is a reasonable early step.
Bunch of coral dying
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RandyC
Supporting Member
Cupisorb removes copper and other heavy metals like zinc, nickel, cobalt, manganese and others I can't remember right now.
Alexander1312
Supporting Member
I am not convinced that water changes are the magic bullet. It ignores the rocks' ability to take on all unwanted stuff which are hardly able to be offset by water changes - as the phosphate examples demonstrates when high phosphates will not go down for quite some time despite large water changes. It is a good idea in theory, but will not necesaarily solve issues. But no harm in trying.
Alexander1312
Supporting Member
I know Thomas does not like this article but I have not seen anything better. Cuprisorb and activated carbon have similar side effects. Not all carbon is the same either. I am using mine 24/7 but only due to my use of ozone.
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An ICP-MS look onto reactor media Part 2 | Oceamo
What is released into the aquarium water by activated carbon, zeolite and phosphate adsorbers? What trace elements and pollutants are bound?
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H2OPlayar
Supporting Member
Just like the underpants gnomes... step three is profit
Anytime something was off in my old system, I did a red slime remover at 1/2 dose of the tank, while hooking the skimmer up to a syphon to create a constant water change. I would get 20-30 gallons out and refresh the tank which was about a 15-20% wc.
Now I know more about antibiotics and I don't do it as often, but I did do it yesterday on my 300 and got another 20 gallons or so changed that way. I also feed extra heavy with coral food during these times.
Agree, I run carbon and cuprisorb 24/7.
Big water changes is the easiest on a smaller tank, and if you do multiple you are taking into account the rock absorption.
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That’s why there’s 10 things on Derek’s list, there is no 1 thing that solves all unknown problems. But water changes are one of the most likely to help since you can trade unknown issues in the water for known good water fairly quickly.
On my 32biocube probably 25 gallons of water consider rocks crush coral coral etc and rear filtration, i change a min 5 gallons a week. Doing slightly larger 20/25% water change couldn't hurt anything. I would also recommend consider Doing one while you wait for icp.
Alexander1312
Supporting Member
Prob couldn’t hurt..
I don’t know if I would classify it as a ccraah Most of my corals are fine (so far) just mostly the smaller acros.. and one big birds nest..
What I don’t understand is why it’s happening consequentially? That is -one goes-then another goes. I could better understand if suddenly a bunch starting going at once in terms of contaminants or maybe lack of trace elements.. some parasite perhaps???
This also happened almost two years with some coral dying and the bird nest dying and then it stopped..could never figure out why either
H2OPlayar
Supporting Member
It's a big tank thing, significant water changes are tough over 200 gallons. I definitely use different strategies on little vs big tanks. Core concepts are the same, but 5 gallons is all I can carry in one arm.I like that he had it at no. 10. Although doing it after no. 9 seems not right either
Of course - the point is that my water chemistry is unlikely the issue to begin with because I am always changing a lot of water, on a very regimented schedule. I’ve changed nearly 300gallons over the last 90 days - nothing crazy but a pretty decent amount and very consistent. A lot more consistent than when I did it manually…
Now if something spills into the tank or whatever a history of AWC is irrelevant, yes. But this isn’t that, this isn’t a full blown crash based on what Lawrence is saying.
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I like that he had it at no. 10
It’s also worth noting that the first 8 (7?) things on my list take about 30 minutes - so you do get to the last steps pretty quickly.
But if you all start doing huge water changes the second you suspect anything is wrong - without doing a lot of basic troubleshooting first - I feel bad for you!
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H2OPlayar
Supporting Member
Unless it's my mom's 13 gallon tank, then change away!
Finnaddict
Supporting Member
My guess is,
You may just dealing be dealing with the result of water parameter fluctuation.
For example on my system when I have a large alk or nutrient fluctuation, I will see the damage done for a month or 2 afterwards. Especially on SPS. Takes some coral longer to recover from the stress.
Also bringing nutrients back up fast may have also added to your situation. I would have done it slowly to avoid any more sudden changes to the water chemistry. Be patient, test and make adjustments slowly.
Good luck.
You may just dealing be dealing with the result of water parameter fluctuation.
For example on my system when I have a large alk or nutrient fluctuation, I will see the damage done for a month or 2 afterwards. Especially on SPS. Takes some coral longer to recover from the stress.
Also bringing nutrients back up fast may have also added to your situation. I would have done it slowly to avoid any more sudden changes to the water chemistry. Be patient, test and make adjustments slowly.
Good luck.
Good to know that.. once the nitrates had bottomed out -I got them to 2 immediately but after that it gingerly increases..
One step at a time..
I’ll start with the 10 steps first and some carbon.
RandyC
Supporting Member
Bottoming out nitrates wouldn't likely cause this issue unless you went from a very, very high ppm number to zero relatively quickly. If the bottoming out happened gradually, you would likely see coral start losing color and becoming very pale over time before any tissue necrosis started. I'd likely look elsewhere first.
After testing water parameters (locally with test kits), check all your magnets and any pumps with impellers. Look for rust and damage. I have seen impellers get damaged and once they do, it can start to rust or grind the impeller. VorTech wetsides should be checked if you have any. Probe magnets are often to blame. Checking this should be higher than #8 in my opinion - it should be really mystery #3 when diagnosing weird coral deaths - @derek_SR is secretly gatekeeping this one.
Bigfish
Supporting Member
I have little knowledge but @Hamada really saved me when he came down and saw my tank. I had metal band holding a hose to one of my pumps for my UV. He showed me small signs of rust on the screws and we immediately took it out, definitely something I would have never accounted for!Bottoming out nitrates wouldn't likely cause this issue unless you went from a very, very high ppm number to zero relatively quickly. If the bottoming out happened gradually, you would likely see coral start losing color and becoming very pale over time before any tissue necrosis started. I'd likely look elsewhere first.
After testing water parameters (locally with test kits), check all your magnets and any pumps with impellers. Look for rust and damage. I have seen impellers get damaged and once they do, it can start to rust or grind the impeller. VorTech wetsides should be checked if you have any. Probe magnets are often to blame. Checking this should be higher than #8 in my opinion - it should be really mystery #3 when diagnosing weird coral deaths - @derek_SR is secretly gatekeeping this one.
Ok. I’ll start looking around at that.Bottoming out nitrates wouldn't likely cause this issue unless you went from a very, very high ppm number to zero relatively quickly. If the bottoming out happened gradually, you would likely see coral start losing color and becoming very pale over time before any tissue necrosis started. I'd likely look elsewhere first.
After testing water parameters (locally with test kits), check all your magnets and any pumps with impellers. Look for rust and damage. I have seen impellers get damaged and once they do, it can start to rust or grind the impeller. VorTech wetsides should be checked if you have any. Probe magnets are often to blame. Checking this should be higher than #8 in my opinion - it should be really mystery #3 when diagnosing weird coral deaths - @derek_SR is secretly gatekeeping this one.
Thx
