Neptune Aquatics

Chaeto or bio pellets for nutrient control

L/B Block

Supporting Member
Be interested in those who have had experience with both in terms of nutrient control. Just thinking forward with the new tank.

Granted chaeto seems cheaper on the start up for sure but my experience with it has been..challenging…from the lighting in the sump causing nasty algae growth all over the sump to my chaeto reactor (skimz) literally blowing up on us and essentially crashing out the tank..

Thoughts/discussion welcome..

L
 
I am running a little high on NO3 like ~20ppm and try to keep low PO4 like ~0.05-0.08. I feed more to keep high No3, because more feeding will raise PO4 so I dose Phosphate remover. I am using Phosban-L at the moment and will switch to Ultralife reef after run out of Phosban-L. Doing this I don't need to run bio pellet. I like to run cheato in refugium but my refugium section in the sump is too small that can not keep up with PO4 raise.


 
I am running a little high on NO3 like ~20ppm and try to keep low PO4 like ~0.05-0.08. I feed more to keep high No3, because more feeding will raise PO4 so I dose Phosphate remover. I am using Phosban-L at the moment and will switch to Ultralife reef after run out of Phosban-L. Doing this I don't need to run bio pellet. I like to run cheato in refugium but my refugium section in the sump is too small that can not keep up with PO4 raise.


Thanks-there is that need when you need to control both the phosphate and nitrates individually.

In my prior tank if kept them pretty low, I reduced both the algae and corals seemed to like it better. Something to ponder though-thx for input.
 
I really like macroalgae for nutrient control. In my system, my ulva macro can totally bottom out nutrients (and will generally either bottom out PO4 or NO3, depending on which is higher). Then, I can dose the depleted nutrient to continue to lower the other. For example, when I had high PO4, I ran my macro and dosed NO3 - this allowed the macro to rapidly grow and deplete both the added NO3 and excess PO4.
 
I just looked this up. Supposedly it grows like like crazy (40% per day). Do you keep it in sump or in tank?

And I should ask when people are using micro algae-what light source are you using and in sump and do you see issues with algae in surrounding areas.
 
I've got it in the sump in a chamber blocked off with a baffle. It grows super fast in my hands! I can harvest it every week.

I use a cheap amazon "50W" grow light. It's pretty focused onto the ulva, but grows a little coralline on the sides of the sump. No other pest algae though.

Check out this video
for a clever way to build an algae chamber without light spill into the sump.
 
I tried biopellets years ago and they didn’t work well for me, no noticeable effect. They are basically carbon dosing but in solid form and very slowly released. Using NOPOX is much more effective if you are going that route but some people have problems with it growing unwanted stuff.

Chaeto is much better in my experience because the carbon comes from the photosynthesis and the N and P is locked up in the tissue, which you remove. Also raises the pH instead of lowering it.
 
Last time chaeto proved to be problematic on different levels (everything from unwanted algae in sump to my micro algae reactor “blowing up” and dumping 12 gallons of water on my floor and causing a tank crash)

-so I am going to try this route instead. Didn’t realize the PH issue though. See how it all plays out -if it doesn’t work then I am sure someone will buy it off me at a heavily discounted price! It’s always an adventure!
 
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Once I have everything properly mounted I can start regular daily water changes again that should help immensely.

Hopefully the simplicity of the bp reactor works-put pellets in. Leave alone for 3 months. Add more. Repeat. But see how if it works as planned.
 
I really like that bucket fuge video. That's a good idea. I wish I would uld have done that on a few tanks.

II have never had success with biopellets alone.
A fuge has to be a considerable size to be effective.

II have built a few diy algae reactors. Even harvesting them twice a week, it wasn't that big effect on nutrients.

I prefer algae for nutrient removal because of the pH benefits, I can feed some to my fish, they house more micro organisms and it's easy maintainance.
 
Bio pellets are such a pain. Good luck.
I don’t feel like you need pellets or macro algae. Especially if you’re going to do daily water changes.
 
how much of a daily water change (percentage) do you recommend?
Somewhat limited this time as I am buying water vs producing my own.
 
I really like that bucket fuge video. That's a good idea. I wish I would uld have done that on a few tanks.

II have never had success with biopellets alone.
A fuge has to be a considerable size to be effective.

II have built a few diy algae reactors. Even harvesting them twice a week, it wasn't that big effect on nutrients.

I prefer algae for nutrient removal because of the pH benefits, I can feed some to my fish, they house more micro organisms and it's easy maintainance.
That is something I need to consider in that I would still like a mandarin and a couple of wrasses that depend on copepods
 
Ok all-I will now bow down with arms extended for being wrong here. The biopellet reactor essentially slimed the aquarium. What a mess. It’s taken offline.

Some concerns about impact to the overflow/return pipes but the water is still flowing..
 
I thought I had started small..like 1/4 of the recommended amount.. this particular model just “sheds” -I am unclear on how to control it.
 
The only condition I would consider using biopellets again is on a 200+gal system and build it at half size.

It gets out of control too easily.

Have you considered a sulfur denitrator? I haven't used one yet but it seems like a better alternative.
 
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