Kessil

Denzil's 40B with 20L Sump-Fuge

rygh said:
denzil said:
Since I got a larger tank, I'm going to have to reassess my livestock plans. Still think my original plans of a Clown, Firefish, and Sixline are still too much?
Click to expand...

Stocking level seems fine to me, but sixlines can be aggressive.
My opinion for small/medium tanks is to stick with all peaceful fish, since they are cramped.

Suggest : Clown + firefish + Spotted (pajama) Cardinalfish + Orange Lined Cardinalfish
Click to expand...
I don't know why but Cardinalfish just look weird to me, LoL. Thanks for the feedback/suggestion though.
gimmito said:
You should give Jeff at Reef Dynamics a shout...he would know best.

Nice score by the way !
Click to expand...
I just shot him an email so I'll hear from him soon. I've been doing pretty well so far in terms of getting good deals so hopefully I can keep that rolling.

I've come to the realization that Vortech MP40's are pretty much overkill for my build, LoL. I would like to get MP10's but that'll probably just delay my build. I think I'll start with Koralias for now to get me going. I still have to consider that I need to save up for the Kessil A350 which I'm opting to not look at any alternatives... I must have it!
 
Since my build is pretty shallow, I'm thinking I should be getting the Kessil A350W instead of the standard A350.

Has anyone done a comparison or side-by-side?
 
I have both Denzil.............side by side. Maybe I'll get some pics of each on by themselves and send them to ya. I'd be curious to see what they cover whithout the other lights on. I'll get back to ya on that.
 
Just decided to get off my A$$ and do it. LOL!

Ok, First pic is the A350............100% power to blue channel and white channel. Light is 10.5" above the water line. It is 36" from the chalice in the lower left to the Lobed brain in the lower right. You can see this is a VERY intense light.......almost too bright........I highly doubt I will ever get it up to 100% as I have already burn't corals at 50%. However corals do adapt, so ya never know.
IMG_2545.jpg


Here is the A350W. Also at 100% power to white and blue channels. Light is 11" above the water line. It is 43" from the clam in the lower left to the end of the tank on the right. This is a much less intense light and would be much better for softies and LPS. I have several acro's and montis under this that are doing just fine. I think this is the light you would do better with. Your tank is much shallower and you can raise the light if needed.

IMG_2546.jpg


Let me know if you have any questions or concerns. I am very happy with these lights. Especially the ability to turn them down and adjust the color. Kessils are QUALITY!! Good luck.

Kris.
 
Ah, thanks for those photos, Kris! It definitely does look like that the A350W would fit my build better. However, I'm curious. Is there a particular reason you have the A350W's so close to the water level? I hear the standard is typically 2' so I'm interested to hear your reasoning behind having them so low. With them being so low, your spread would definitely be more limiting than if the A350W's were placed higher. :)
 
denzil said:
Ah, thanks for those photos, Kris! It definitely does look like that the A350W would fit my build better. However, I'm curious. Is there a particular reason you have the A350W's so close to the water level? I hear the standard is typically 2' so I'm interested to hear your reasoning behind having them so low. With them being so low, your spread would definitely be more limiting than if the A350W's were placed higher. :)
Click to expand...


Good question. The kessil owners manual reads to keep the lights 1-2' above the "object to be illuminated." I read this as the highest coral in the tank and started the lights about 15" above the highest coral which was 8" above water line. I have since moved them to 11" above water line. I can't imagine the lights any more than 12-14" above water line simply for the amount of light spill that would happen. I am already getting a tiny bit of spill from the wide at 11" and my tank is 32" from front to back. LOL! However the A350 could probably go higher without too much light spill........at least on this tank.

Again, this is the wonderful thing about being able to dial down the intensity.......if you need to lower the light to control light spill....you can simply turn it down. Visually........it is really not that much different. Still plenty of light.
 
Hrm, well, you have the owner's manual so you would know more about it, LoL. I think the phrase "object to be illuminated" is really in the eye of the beholder I suppose. However, I did look at the Kessil A350 page and while it some pretty basic specs, I did stumble upon the light spread differences on the page: http://www.kessil.com/products/a350_led_aqua_light.php. If you select the tank shot photos, it'll take you to here: http://www.kessil.com/images/products/a350/a350-a350w-large.jpg

I definitely am convinced that the A350W is the right choice for me.
 
Hah, thanks, Kris! Yeah, the planning is a lot of the fun I'm having with this build. What's also awesome is scoring some great buys along the way since I'm not on a time crunch. :)
 
Coral reefer said:
Make sure stand is vented of fan on sump
Click to expand...

Don't think the open back of the stand would be enough? I don't plan on putting it completely flush against the wall. Worst case scenario, I might just suck it up and put the fans on the DT but I'll definitely do all that I can to keep it within the stand.

I've been observing the evaporation on Brandie's 90 and it's pretty crazy (at least to me anyways). It seems she has to top it off every day so I'm thinking of implementing an ATO in my build, particularly from Autotopoff. There's definitely no space in my stand to put an ATO container so it'd probably be placed right next to my stand with the piping going around the back of the stand.
 
So I've been doing some research (as usual) and I was looking at the BeanAnimal drain system. I really like the implementation and was considering installing it on my 40B. However, I'm not really sure if I'd really benefit from it versus how much tank space I'd be losing. In addition, I'd have to have the overflow fabricated (meaning I'd have it cut then I'd figure out how to assemble it and affix it to the back part of the glass.

Do you guys think it's worth implementing on my "small" tank? Thoughts? Pros? Cons?
 
Advantages:
Quiet!
Lots of 'fail safe' features
Lots of flow
Great surface skimming
Did I mention Quiet? :)

Since you will have to do some kind of overflow, might as well be a BA!

Did you read thru the thread on RC? Modifications are shown to the original that take up less tank space. It's possible to make the overflow out of one piece of glass. It really only needs one ball/gate valve to control it.
 
aqua-nut said:
Advantages:
Quiet!
Lots of 'fail safe' features
Lots of flow
Great surface skimming
Did I mention Quiet? :)

Since you will have to do some kind of overflow, might as well be a BA!

Did you read thru the thread on RC? Modifications are shown to the original that take up less tank space. It's possible to make the overflow out of one piece of glass. It really only needs one ball/gate valve to control it.
Click to expand...
I'll check it out. I think I have it bookmarked.
gimmito said:
I think it's a bit overkill for a 40. You might want to checkout Matt Wandell's thread on www.nanoreefers.com for more info.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I think it is too but wouldn't it be sweet? :D

I tried accessing that website but it doesn't look like it's up?
 
I'm curious, has anyone had their drain clogged. If so, what did you do to prevent it? Just make sure your overflow is well covered? I plan on getting the glass-holes kit with the top so I should be covered from any snails getting in but that still won't stop any algae from getting in there though.
 
denzil said:
I'm curious, has anyone had their drain clogged. If so, what did you do to prevent it? Just make sure your overflow is well covered? I plan on getting the glass-holes kit with the top so I should be covered from any snails getting in but that still won't stop any algae from getting in there though.
Click to expand...

Yes... had a few overflow (at facilities I managed, and once at hime, just once). Usually snails caused the issue. Just keep a decent screen on the OF, and leave a gap at the top just in case it becomes fouled.
 
BAYMAC said:
denzil said:
I'm curious, has anyone had their drain clogged. If so, what did you do to prevent it? Just make sure your overflow is well covered? I plan on getting the glass-holes kit with the top so I should be covered from any snails getting in but that still won't stop any algae from getting in there though.
Click to expand...

Yes... had a few overflow (at facilities I managed, and once at hime, just once). Usually snails caused the issue. Just keep a decent screen on the OF, and leave a gap at the top just in case it becomes fouled.
Click to expand...

Ah, thanks!
 
So I currently have the 10g running with the four clowns that I got from David along with an AC30, three pieces of Marco rock, Tunze 9002, and Aqueon Modular LED light. I noticed that there are actually flat worms in the tank which I believe transferred over from the piece of LR that I pulled from Brandie's tank to seed the base rock.

With that in mind, I plan on transferring over the new LR to my 40B. However, I'm concerned with the flat worms in the 10g. Should I just start fresh with the 40B with straight unseeded Marco rock that I have left or is it possible to transfer the newly seeded LR without any or minimal flatworm risk? I'm afraid that starting fresh is probably the answer here but if I have to, I definitely will. Also, how can I prevent this from ever infesting my tank? The only risk I see is with bringing in new livestock from LFS's, online vendors, or frag swaps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top