High Tide Aquatics

DI resin on ebay

Did you flush after replacing the sediment and carbon block? If not sometimes carbon fines acan get stuck in membrane. Do you flush membranes after extended periods of non use? First couple or several gal after non use will be much higher tds. Need to flush that water out before production. If di doesn't get you to zero or damn near something is wrong. Usually rejection rate goes up and production rate goes down when membrane is ready to be replaced. If you don't stay on top of you carbon or you don't use the right one(s) and your water has chloramines that will wreck your membrane faster than normal.
 
you got 17 ppm when? before or after the DI resin? Unless water is moving very fast (too fast) through your system you should get 0 ppm (or very close to 0) after the resin.
 
Coral reefer said:
Did you flush after replacing the sediment and carbon block? If not sometimes carbon fines acan get stuck in membrane. Do you flush membranes after extended periods of non use? First couple or several gal after non use will be much higher tds. Need to flush that water out before production. If di doesn't get you to zero or damn near something is wrong. Usually rejection rate goes up and production rate goes down when membrane is ready to be replaced. If you don't stay on top of you carbon or you don't use the right one(s) and your water has chloramines that will wreck your membrane faster than normal.
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I flushed for three gallons before collect and test. I also flush for a gallon before every use. I may need to let it flush more.
 
sfsuphysics said:
you got 17 ppm when? before or after the DI resin? Unless water is moving very fast (too fast) through your system you should get 0 ppm (or very close to 0) after the resin.
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I got 17ppm after DI resin. Im not sure about the flow, the filter connect straight to tap water on the back yard. tap water around 350 ppm in Union City.
 
I run a pressure gauge before the whole unit, ever since I hooked it up I came to realize that the pressure is not always the same here (maybe because I'm in the hills?) but pressure is a huge factor, too low or too high the output can change drastically therefore the performance of the membranes/cartridges does too.

Whenever you replace or refill all stages it's always good to disinfect with chlorine, I do this once a year and there are plenty of instruction online.

What micron sediment filter did you get? my water has a lot of mud in it apparently because I once made the mistake of using a 5 micron sediment filter that pretty much was trying to wreck everything behind it, now I'm using 1 micron.

My tap water is very low tds (150 range) and I get near 0 pre DI and absolute 0 after DI, I have Hayward water.
 
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nly04 said:
I got 17ppm after DI resin. Im not sure about the flow, the filter connect straight to tap water on the back yard. tap water around 350 ppm in Union City.
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Well if it was slowed down enough to go through a RO membrane then it should be zero on the way out. You have a TDS before going into the DI part of the membrane? See if it's at least doing a little bit.

Not to give you worry, but that picture they show, that's the color of my resin after it's been exhausted, but I do have color changing resin.
 
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