Our mission

Fragging Questions

MarcosDelgado0

MarcosDelgado0

Supporting Member
BARcard
Alright guys the time has come for me to start fragging a few things. I’ve seen a few videos but I’m more of a hands on learner so I’ll figure out actual action part as I go.

-Im curious to know what brand/types of fragging supplies you guys recommend? I’m looking online and I see a ton of recommendations so wondering what you all use. Specifically for fragging zoas and hammers/torches. I got in line for the bandsaw so I’ll use that for the LPS but obviously would need something else for the zoas.

-What type of glue are you using? I’ve seen videos of people picking up super glue from the dollar store but not sure if it’s ok.

-I found a bulk pack of frag plugs on amazon which I’m thinking of getting, they are ceramic. I’m guessing for the most part frag plugs are all the same?

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

-Frag plus vs Disks vs Tiles?

-If I frag something from my main tank, can I just move it over to my frag tank? Or should I let it “heal” in the main tank and then move it over? If so, I don’t really have a lot of space for more frags in the main tank.

Thank you guys for your advice. I really wish I would’ve attended that Fragging event a while back lol
 
Bone cutters are great all around, and esp for sps. For hammers/torches i suggest dremel because bone cutters can crush/crack their not-so-dense skeletons. Or a "rotary tool" from harbor freight lol

Sharp scissors for leathers, and razor blades are nice to have on hand. There's a DBTC bandsaw if you have a huge fragging sesh

I use BSI cyanoacrylate gel glue, but there's so many on the market and most will do the job. Make sure it's cyanoacrylate, no weird additives, and get gel instead of thin glue - liquidy glue gets all over your fingers and won't gently hold corals in place like gel does while it's curing

The linked plugs look good. Large tiles tiles/discs are often used for grow-out. I think avoid plastic tiles, I was talking to a fellow member and he said they move too easily.

Sensitive corals I'd let heal in the main tank if you can. Try to keep the params similar anyway

edit: saw you got in line for bandsaw lol
 
MarcosDelgado0 said:
Alright guys the time has come for me to start fragging a few things. I’ve seen a few videos but I’m more of a hands on learner so I’ll figure out actual action part as I go.

-Im curious to know what brand/types of fragging supplies you guys recommend? I’m looking online and I see a ton of recommendations so wondering what you all use. Specifically for fragging zoas and hammers/torches. I got in line for the bandsaw so I’ll use that for the LPS but obviously would need something else for the zoas.

-What type of glue are you using? I’ve seen videos of people picking up super glue from the dollar store but not sure if it’s ok.

-I found a bulk pack of frag plugs on amazon which I’m thinking of getting, they are ceramic. I’m guessing for the most part frag plugs are all the same?

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

-Frag plus vs Disks vs Tiles?

-If I frag something from my main tank, can I just move it over to my frag tank? Or should I let it “heal” in the main tank and then move it over? If so, I don’t really have a lot of space for more frags in the main tank.

Thank you guys for your advice. I really wish I would’ve attended that Fragging event a while back lol
Click to expand...
Becareful with the zoas and palytoxin. If you aren’t aware of the risks involved with it.

For zoas i wanna grow out i use tile plates, zoas on tiny frag plugs unless your getting off them quickly can over grow small plugs and they would definitely stick to your acrylic racks.

I use dremel to make a clean cut the rock/ plug they are on, and razor to actually slice between the polyps.

Zoas i wear eye protection, gloves and keep your mouth shut lmao or wear a covid face mask. Just for safety.

Hammers/torches be sure to stay away from the flesh ring only cut hard part. And having iodine based dip for freshly cut frags in clean saltwater helps. Try tk keep cuts on euphyllia strait at base so they are easy to mount. Observe growth patterns when in doubt better to have one with multiple heads than risk killing the inteded frag. Very easy over all.

I use 3/4 frag plugs, tiles, even rubble just depends on the coral, and long term intentions with it.

I also use bsi glue just got it from Neptunes. If you want a hand though and my schedule is open i wouldn't mind coming give you a hand (no expert but ive fragged the ones you mentioned sevral times.)

I only get nervous with favias, and acans etc where there is fine lines to weave with band saw.

With plugs just consider growth rate especially with zoas and match them to the size appropriate size plug.

And you would be surprised how much you could frag with a dremel. Solid investment with the diamond blades.
Happy to help just let me know.
 
MichaelB said:
Becareful with the zoas and palytoxin. If you aren’t aware of the risks involved with it.

For zoas i wanna grow out i use tile plates, zoas on tiny frag plugs unless your getting off them quickly can over grow small plugs and they would definitely stick to your acrylic racks.

I use dremel to make a clean cut the rock/ plug they are on, and razor to actually slice between the polyps.

Zoas i wear eye protection, gloves and keep your mouth shut lmao or wear a covid face mask. Just for safety.

Hammers/torches be sure to stay away from the flesh ring only cut hard part. And having iodine based dip for freshly cut frags in clean saltwater helps. Try tk keep cuts on euphyllia strait at base so they are easy to mount. Observe growth patterns when in doubt better to have one with multiple heads than risk killing the inteded frag. Very easy over all.

I use 3/4 frag plugs, tiles, even rubble just depends on the coral, and long term intentions with it.

I also use bsi glue just got it from Neptunes. If you want a hand though and my schedule is open i wouldn't mind coming give you a hand (no expert but ive fragged the ones you mentioned sevral times.)

I only get nervous with favias, and acans etc where there is fine lines to weave with band saw.

With plugs just consider growth rate especially with zoas and match them to the size appropriate size plug.

And you would be surprised how much you could frag with a dremel. Solid investment with the diamond blades.
Happy to help just let me know.
Click to expand...
What dremel do you use? I see online there’s a couple different kind
 
MarcosDelgado0 said:
What dremel do you use? I see online there’s a couple different kind
Click to expand...

I bought this one personally.
I've had no issues with it. They have cheaper ones and much more expensive ones same as any tool. Good overall quality compared to price and hard case is cool.

POPULO Power Rotary Tool Kit with Keyless Chuck, 154pcs Accessories, Flexible Shaft, Variable Speed Engraving, Corded Tools Drimmer Set for Cutting Sanding Polishing Engraving Crafting and DIY Works https://a.co/d/5a3pWmM
Screenshot_20240901_081224_Amazon Shopping.jpg



The important part is these, again doesn't have to be precise ones but diamond cut off wheels. I probably used 2 wheels since i had the thing so they last very long time. I've use to cut acrylic as well. And frag plugs small pieces of reef rock. Very versatile beyond just Cutting like a mini drill more options than can easily be described. Heck can even cut off bolts/screws with the right cut off wheel. Can polish and sharpen knives with Sanding bits.

Hamineler 30 Pcs Diamond Cutting Wheel (25mm/20mm/16mm Each 10), Diamond Coated Cutting Wheel and 6pcs 3mm Mandrel for Rotary Tool https://a.co/d/b3IxTPg
Screenshot_20240901_081255_Amazon Shopping.jpg



If you wanna play with mine, id let you borrow it.
 
Soak the plugs in tank water for awhile to get all the bubbles out. I actually leave them in my sump in the dark for weeks so they get a biofilm (they tend to grow less nuisance algae this way).

For zoas I just use a scalpel and scrape them off (of course do everything outside/well ventilated with gloves and eye protection and a mask if possible). Or use bone cutters if they are really attached.

For fimbriaphyllia and euphyllia, cut below the flesh line (ideally lower) and cut them flat so they glue well. The tissue extends inside the skeleton as well so keep that in mind.

I'd have a post cut holding bin after cutting with clean tank water and a few drops of iodine. Plus a couple drops of iodine in the saw (use very little water or it will splash everywhere). Plan your cuts.
 
Darkxerox said:
Soak the plugs in tank water for awhile to get all the bubbles out. I actually leave them in my sump in the dark for weeks so they get a biofilm (they tend to grow less nuisance algae this way).

For zoas I just use a scalpel and scrape them off (of course do everything outside/well ventilated with gloves and eye protection and a mask if possible). Or use bone cutters if they are really attached.

For fimbriaphyllia and euphyllia, cut below the flesh line (ideally lower) and cut them flat so they glue well. The tissue extends inside the skeleton as well so keep that in mind.

I'd have a post cut holding bin after cutting with clean tank water and a few drops of iodine. Plus a couple drops of iodine in the saw (use very little water or it will splash everywhere). Plan your cuts.
Click to expand...
That plug tip is a good idea! Thank you!
 
If you can find one in your price range, a cordless Dremel type tool is very useful for all sorts of things.

For glue I buy this from Amazon:

Premium Grade Cyanoacrylate (CA) Super Glue by STARBOND"Gap Filler" Thick 2000 CPS Viscosity Adhesive for Carpentry, Woodworking, Hobby Models, Archery Fletching (Thick, 2 Ounce) https://a.co/d/1eRtVEI

I buy the 2oz. I just now realized the 16oz comes with multiple smaller bottles, so I'll probably buy that next time.

Also can be helpful to have some baking soda or one of those spray bottles of glue hardener around. Baking soda does the same thing. The glue almost instantly hardens when it touches it. However glue gets hot when it hardens, and when it instantly hardens it gets noticeably hot, so don't use it next to tissue.
 
richiev said:
If you can find one in your price range, a cordless Dremel type tool is very useful for all sorts of things.

For glue I buy this from Amazon:

Premium Grade Cyanoacrylate (CA) Super Glue by STARBOND"Gap Filler" Thick 2000 CPS Viscosity Adhesive for Carpentry, Woodworking, Hobby Models, Archery Fletching (Thick, 2 Ounce) https://a.co/d/1eRtVEI

I buy the 2oz. I just now realized the 16oz comes with multiple smaller bottles, so I'll probably buy that next time.

Also can be helpful to have some baking soda or one of those spray bottles of glue hardener around. Baking soda does the same thing. The glue almost instantly hardens when it touches it. However glue gets hot when it hardens, and when it instantly hardens it gets noticeably hot, so don't use it next to tissue.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the recommendation! Have that in my cart now. The 16 definitely seems like the better deal with the spare empty bottles
 
MarcosDelgado0 said:
Ooh that’s a good point. Is this glue kinda thick?
Click to expand...
MichaelB said:
I've tried 2-3 different small tubes, granted not all types, the ones i tried were water like and a no go. If they are thicker it would be a good option as well.
Click to expand...
The one linked is a gel-style - you can see the option selected. Most if not all reefing-branded ones will be gels, otherwise make sure you get a gel

Single use is quite convenient for a few frags. More, tho, and big tubes feel like they have less waste

I also have the liquid ones, which I use for certain non-reefing things. It has its place, just not for frags.
 
The ones I linked from amazon don't really have the waste problem, as long as you don't lose the cap they come with. They come with a red cap with a pin in it. The pin goes into the dispensing tube and seals it plus prevents it from getting plugged generally. If it does get plugged, you can cut some of the tip off and use the other covers they come with (the white lids) to still keep it from plugging.

I used the ace hardware and dollar store gel types for a long time. The big tube I find a lot more convenient because you're not constantly breaking open new tubes and screwing lids on and trying to get the last 0.5ml out of a 2ml bottle. The other benefit is you can screw the entire lid off and stick a toothpick or whatever in, to get a bit of gel glue that you can brush onto things.

Both are pretty similar consistencies, and both work though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top