Neptune Aquatics

Fritz salt

RandyC said:
Yeah. Getting real frustrated with fritz. Bucket was power washed and soaked in ammonia to get rid of any residual precipitation and 24 hours later after mixing a new bucket, I'm at 6.6 dKh. TDS of water was 0. Temp was a little on the warm side 80ish because it was a hot day yesterday and my garage gets real hot.

What to do?
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Add buffer and retest. I am adding about 1 tbsp of Seachem reef builder per 100 gallons to get around 8-8.5 dkh
It will stay at set point after buffer is added. Good luck.


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I give up. I made the switch to Fritz from IORC because alk was high in IORC and I was getting a larger swing than I wanted on larger WCs.

But this is more painful. I don't want to have to be dosing alk for every newly mixed batch of salt.

This is my third batch and this is the alk test after two days:

IMG_0421.JPG


Fritz is just really bad or I'm the shittiest salt mixer ever to exist in reefing.
 
RandyC said:
I give up. I made the switch to Fritz from IORC because alk was high in IORC and I was getting a larger swing than I wanted on larger WCs.

But this is more painful. I don't want to have to be dosing alk for every newly mixed batch of salt.

This is my third batch and this is the alk test after two days:

View attachment 7832

Fritz is just really bad or I'm the shittiest salt mixer ever to exist in reefing.
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I gave up also. I am using aquavitro now and no alk issues.


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scuzy said:
Do what the fish doctor recommended


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That would require me adding stuff to my salt mix. Just as bad as having to dose alk. I'm lazy. Plus, I don't think I should have to add anything to a salt mix to keep it from precipitating out while it's just sitting there in a very clean, vinegar-bathed bucket newly mixed for less than 48hrs.
 
Yeah I'm not sure why it does this either. I'm having issues where my alk is stuck around 9.7 and I want to get it down.


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Now I'm trying to compare IO with Muratic Acid to lower Alk or Fritz and buffering it with sea Chem reef builder (any other product that does same thing?) Both solutions are same difference?

IO and Muratic Acid is cheaper for sure though. Fritz combo might have better trace elements.

Looking forward to the new DrFS reef salt. Wonder if it's made by Fritz and same as RPM.
 
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I'd be curious too. He doses the Red Sea colors trace elements so as long as he's getting the major elements through the carx then he should be good. He's essentially doing the Triton method without Triton.

I can't say I'm too happy with Fritz over this. I'm not sure if I'll buy more salt from them or not. Like @Vhuang168, I don't do very many WC's either (maybe 100 gallons in 9 months) so it's not a pressing issue. I may just start mixing what I need when I need it. I don't think it's too much to ask to have them address this issue. If there's a buffer they can add to their product, they should. I'm disappointed that I specifically asked their rep at the cfm in march about this issue and he said it wasn't a problem. I think it was @Gablami who emailed them about it and they said if you mixed it according to their instructions it shouldn't happen. Well, I think there's too many of us experiencing this issue for it just to be an isolated occurrence.
 
I absolutely can but my corals are telling me the water is good. /shrug

I'm not saying NOT to do water changes. Water changes are good for removing stuff like nitrates and phosphates.
 
euod said:
Water is good because you have no fish in it yet! ;)
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This is in the 40b. 2 Tangs, 2 maroons, 1 damsel, 1 wrasse and 1 filefish. Feed up to 4 cubes a day. Minimum 2 cubes.

Dose Acropower every 2-3 days, dose Red Sea Colors every week. Dose Fauna Marin Min S and Min D every week.

Plenty of fish in the 190 too. 4 tangs, 2 wrasses, 3 anthias, 1 cbb, 1 fox face, 2 clowns, 1 blenny, 2 gobies, 1 dottyback, 1 royal gramma and a surprise sighting of my gold assessor last night!
 
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