got ethical husbandry?

Help diagnose my tank!

Solitaryensis said:
That’s the biggest part of this mystery. My tank IS dirty so you’d think the zoas, mushrooms and chaeto would be thriving but they aren’t. On the other hand, SPS are thriving.
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How many zoas have your tried? They can be pretty finicky in new environments. Some close up and whither away for no reason while the zoas right next to them thrive.

Where are your phosphates and nitrates at today? That's going to determine whether it makes sense to move to GFO.

I'd suggest trying Ulva instead of Cheato. That tends to be easier to get growing for me. I've got a ton in my outdoor pod cultures if you want to try some.
 
bluprntguy said:
How many zoas have your tried? They can be pretty finicky in new environments. Some close up and whither away for no reason while the zoas right next to them thrive.

Where are your phosphates and nitrates at today? That's going to determine whether it makes sense to move to GFO.

I'd suggest trying Ulva instead of Cheato. That tends to be easier to get growing for me. I've got a ton in my outdoor pod cultures if you want to try some.
Click to expand...


I tested last night. I did a low range nitrate test and it was off the chart. I didn’t do the high range but will do one tonight. Phosphates are around 0.15

I currently have about 10 varieties of zoas in the tank, ranging from the easy to the hard. No species seem particularly immune to what’s going on - none die but none grow at all.

Would love to get some ulva from you the next time I’m in your area!


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Solitaryensis said:
I tested last night. I did a low range nitrate test and it was off the chart. I didn’t do the high range but will do one tonight. Phosphates are around 0.15

I currently have about 10 varieties of zoas in the tank, ranging from the easy to the hard. No species seem particularly immune to what’s going on - none die but none grow at all.

Would love to get some ulva from you the next time I’m in your area!


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Click to expand...

Good job getting the phosphates down. 1.0 to .15 is a pretty significant drop.

I'd do a large water change. If you could do a 50% change, that would get your phosphates closer to where most people want them to be and would bring your nitrates down at the same time. I'd also start back on the nopox to try to keep both of them down. Carbon dosing takes a long time to be effective, so it will likely be a month or more before you notice much of a decrease.

Unless you are battling algae, I wouldn't run GFO quite yet as it will get things out of balance.

If you are going to be at the frag swap, I can bring some Ulva then.
 
Your tank looks pretty good in general. Be careful that "fixing" it could result in disaster.

+1 on large water changes.

It is VERY hard to have big success with both Zoas and SPS.
You probably need to pick.

Given the moderately high nitrates and phosphates, it is weird that SPS grow and Zoas do not. Usually the other way around.
But every tank is different.

Are you deep siphoning detritus out of your sand bed when you do water changes?
A picture of crud growing on your sand bed makes it look like you might not be.
 
rygh said:
Your tank looks pretty good in general. Be careful that "fixing" it could result in disaster.

+1 on large water changes.

It is VERY hard to have big success with both Zoas and SPS.
You probably need to pick.

Given the moderately high nitrates and phosphates, it is weird that SPS grow and Zoas do not. Usually the other way around.
But every tank is different.

Are you deep siphoning detritus out of your sand bed when you do water changes?
A picture of crud growing on your sand bed makes it look like you might not be.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I understand it’s hard to do both. Just getting frustrated making sense of where I need to make improvements. The numbers are telling me one thing but the corals are telling me something different. Either way, I think everyone’s right - pick your battles and don’t go doing anything crazy if the tank is doing fairly well.

I don’t siphon my sand regularly but I’ve removed the entire front half of sand so what you’re prob seeing isn’t crud :). Slowly getting rid of all the sand.


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bluprntguy said:
Good job getting the phosphates down. 1.0 to .15 is a pretty significant drop.

I'd do a large water change. If you could do a 50% change, that would get your phosphates closer to where most people want them to be and would bring your nitrates down at the same time. I'd also start back on the nopox to try to keep both of them down. Carbon dosing takes a long time to be effective, so it will likely be a month or more before you notice much of a decrease.

Unless you are battling algae, I wouldn't run GFO quite yet as it will get things out of balance.

If you are going to be at the frag swap, I can bring some Ulva then.
Click to expand...

Big water change in the works for this weekend!


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Note that differnent types of Zoas might have different requirements.
You might try target feeding of different things.

(I think Sprung said this. I am quoting from a quote in an old thread)
"A general guideline for zoanthids might be that the longer and thinner the tentacles, the greater role feeding plays in their metabolism, and the hobbyist should attempt feeding on a regular basis. However, we should point out that fish feces and stray fish food are usually captured by feeding zoanthids and direct feeding may not be required. A safe rule of thumb would be to feed zoanthids that eagerly accept food. Occasional feedings will benefit them. If they show no interest whatsoever, direct feeding will probably have no benefit."
 
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