High Tide Aquatics

How Do You Have a Bay Area Safe RODI System, and Fill Up Your ATO Container?

Baykes said:
Ordered from them on recommendation by @Coral reefer. They had good prices
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This one?

www.freshwatersystems.com

Pentek 255416-43 ChlorPlus 10 Chloramine Reduction 1 mic Filter

The ChlorPlus-10 replaces the CGAC-10 20 mic Chloramine Reduction Filter which has been discontinued. The Pentek ChlorPlus offers multiple product solutions for chloramine reduction. Chloramine is increasingly becoming more common as an alternative to chlorine for water treatment. The ChlorPlus...
www.freshwatersystems.com www.freshwatersystems.com
 
thesassyindian said:
This one?

www.freshwatersystems.com

Pentek 255416-43 ChlorPlus 10 Chloramine Reduction 1 mic Filter

The ChlorPlus-10 replaces the CGAC-10 20 mic Chloramine Reduction Filter which has been discontinued. The Pentek ChlorPlus offers multiple product solutions for chloramine reduction. Chloramine is increasingly becoming more common as an alternative to chlorine for water treatment. The ChlorPlus...
www.freshwatersystems.com www.freshwatersystems.com
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Yep that’s the one. $6 cheaper than BRS


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Rostato said:
I only recommend the BRS universal carbon blocks. I haven’t tried anything else.

definitely use the .5 micron sediment filter and replace it often. This protects the carbon blocks and helps them last a long time.
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Coral reefer said:
Fresh water systems has .35
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Hey @Rostato , can you please send me a link to the 0.5micron filter you recommend?

Also, @Coral reefer , i couldn't find the 0.35micron sediment filter on the fresh water systems page. Can you too please send me a link to it?

Thanks both!
 
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thesassyindian said:
That’s what I was envisioning, but since I have only a 13.5gal tank, does it make sense to spend $112?

That comes out to using 160gal of LFS RODI to just break even.
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Don’t forget that you can drink the water! Mr RO unit sits under my kitchen sink. It’s two sediment filters and a carbon block, the the ro. After the RO it is teed off. One line goes into another smaller carbon filter then a faucet for drinking (the skinny faucet thing? The other line goes from RO to a DI canister and that goes to a 1/4 line with a valve that I use for aquarium water.

just an example.

mid it worth it? Welll seeing the mud that comes out when I change the prefilters alone makes me glad I’m not drinking it!the pipes in my house are pretty old and still has a galvanized section from the street.
 
thesassyindian said:
nice - so how and how often do you check if this is depleted?
test strips?
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I think they say to swap out after 6 months of use. Personally I might push it a little more just because I don’t filter high volumes of water for my tank. Not sure what tests can be used.
 
Folks, based on all your feedback, I have amended my shopping list.
Does this look OK?

This will be the progression:
BRS 1 micron sediment filter >> 0.35micron sediment filter >> 1 micron ChlorPlus >> 1 micron ChlorPlus >> DOW 75gpd RO Membrane >> Mixed DI resin >> product water

1602050326491.png
 
I'm assuming you have 6 canisters plus an ro available, right?

If it were me personally (this is what I'm running) I would drop one of the sediment filters, and then run 3 stage di (Cation/Anion/mixed bed)

If you want to keep the 2 sediment filters, and have one empty canister, I would run a second mixed bed. This way as your first stage starts to get depleted and starts to release things back into the water, the second stage grabs it.
 
Meshmez said:
I'm assuming you have 6 canisters plus an ro available, right?

If it were me personally (this is what I'm running) I would drop one of the sediment filters, and then run 3 stage di (Cation/Anion/mixed bed)

If you want to keep the 2 sediment filters, and have one empty canister, I would run a second mixed bed. This way as your first stage starts to get depleted and starts to release things back into the water, the second stage grabs it.
Click to expand...

agreed. I run two sediments but it’s not necessary
 
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