I feel like giving up.

[fishnfst]

So your ro water tested 0 phosphates and nitrites right? How about after you mixed it with salt? When you say tested out perfect what were you testing for?

 

[MrManz1691]

I tested before salt and after salt. I was testing nitrate, nitrites, phosphates, ammonia, and ph.

 

[Mr. Ugly]

[quote author=MrManz1691 link=topic=4324.msg52467#msg52467 date=1218772153]I got the kh from the api dropper test kit. It was between 7 snd 8 drops.[/quote]

API alk test tends to read 1-2 drops too high. I've seen it read 4 drops high if the bottle wasn't shaken enough.

 

[fishnfst]

So the KH could be closer to 5-6...... With a KH that low wouldn't you start to get some more pronounced ph swings?

 

[Mr. Ugly]

Sounds reasonable. The buffering capacity is reduced.

5-6 dKH is way low. Even 7 dKH is low. That explains why your SPS don't make it. Zoas can shrink with low alk too.

Nitrite and phosphate are high.

High phosphate interferes with calcification.

Nitrite comes from ammonia. If you're spiking nitrite like that in an established system, then there has to be stuff dying off, or else there's a high bioload.

pH seems low for a system on kalk drip.

Do you have a lot of fish/livestock in the tank? Is there enough circulation/aeration?

Probably would help to do a bunch of bigger water changes to clean up the system, and also bring water chemistry back in line.

 

[sid700]

Do you adjust the pH of your makeup water?

RO/DI water is slightly acidic. I always had to adjust the dKH and pH of my tank until I ran the make-up water through a kalk reactor.

 

[MrManz1691]

Wow thank you all for the replies. Im very happy this board is here. Its nice to be able to ask questions and not be cut apart by people.
Ok so some responses.
I had a RBTA die about 3 days ago. During that the ammonia went up a little. The ammonia since then has gone back down to 0. I have had coral die off for some time now. But it was mainly just new stuff that has been added to the tank. And not all of it has died off. I would say 1 piece to every 4-5 added. I was told by another LFS that it was dieing because of the way the coral was shipped. For the most part i was under the impression that my water was pretty good. Everytime that i talked to my LFS they told me to check my Nitrates, NItrites nd ammonia. They never said much about my kH. I ended up with the Kalk dripper because i was told that it would help with calcium delivery. I have always had a real issue growing coraline. The more i have read recently, i have found that it doesnt help to much with calcium.

I will be very honest here and i hope no one hates me for it, but i very rarely was testing kH and PH. It wasnt something that was ever asked about when i went to talk aboit my tank at stores. I feel terrible about this. I thought i was doing a good job because my fish always seemes really healthy and eat all the time, that i was doing good. It sounds bad but i was under the impression that alot of coral die off from shipping and bad selection. The wholesalers that i have been to, well lets just say there is one or two that have the worst conditions i have ever seen. THe owenr never listens to me and we still order from them.

As for buffering the PH with my water changes, no. When i do a water change i fill up 5 gallon jugs, mix 2.5 cups of salt. Mix it, let it sit for a day or so and then ad to the sump.

And lastly the bioload. Im sure you are going to say that it is very high. Here is what i have:
1 Blond Naso Tang, 6-7in
1 Orange Shoulder tang, 5-6in
1 Hippo Tang, 4-5in
1 glod spot rabbit fish, 3-4in
2 false perc clowns, M 2-3in F 3-4in
1 flame angel 2-3in
1 coral beauty 2-3in
1 mystery wrasse 3-4in
1 lephard wrasse 3-4in
1 ember blenny 2-3in
5 blue/green chromis.
1 lion fish 1.5-2in
1 carpet anemone 6-8 in across
2 Dersa Clams 4-6 in
2 crocea clams 4-6in
1 kohal tang 2-3 in in the refigium
1 blue with yellow tail damsel in sump 2-3 in

 

[sid700]

[quote author=MrManz1691 link=topic=4324.msg52527#msg52527 date=1218815313]
As for buffering the PH with my water changes, no. When i do a water change i fill up 5 gallon jugs, mix 2.5 cups of salt. Mix it, let it sit for a day or so and then ad to the sump.
[/quote]

I was referring to the water you put in to "make-up" for the evaporation. I found that I need to adjust the pH before adding it in.

 

[MrManz1691]

ah, thats a good point. What i have always done is just take 5gal of weater once a week and add it to the tank. I check the salinity before and after and sometimes need to adjust, but other than that no. I havent done any extra testing to the water.

 

[LeviT]

... wow that does sound like a lot and here I am worried about having 4 fish in my 46g

 

[Mr. Ugly]

[quote author=MrManz1691 link=topic=4324.msg52527#msg52527 date=1218815313]
Wow thank you all for the replies. Im very happy this board is here. Its nice to be able to ask questions and not be cut apart by people.[/quote]

We try not to be haters here

 

[Mr. Ugly]

[quote author=sid700 link=topic=4324.msg52520#msg52520 date=1218809833]
Do you adjust the pH of your makeup water?

RO/DI water is slightly acidic.[/quote]

RO/DI has no buffering capacity, so small amounts of dissolved CO2 will slightly drop the pH.

No need to adjust the makeup water. Straight RO/DI is fine.

 

[Mr. Ugly]

[quote author=MrManz1691 link=topic=4324.msg52527#msg52527 date=1218815313]I ended up with the Kalk dripper because i was told that it would help with calcium delivery. I have always had a real issue growing coraline. The more i have read recently, i have found that it doesnt help to much with calcium.[/quote]

Kalk will help maintain your Ca/Alk, but you'll need to get it in range with 2-part first. If you have a high coral load, kalk will not be able to keep up, so you may still need to use 2-part or a Ca reactor.

I'd be careful of a high bioload and O2 levels. Sounds like the tank could use more skimming and circulation.