Reef nutrition

ICP-MS results are in....scary

FreahSaltyGuy

FreahSaltyGuy

Supporting Member
BARcard
Hi All,

I now I have insite to some issues I've been seeing. Based off this test is this telling me the RoDI resin need to be replaced or the filters themselves? I can't see how the filter because I have been using them for maybe 1 year and it's a 300 gpd iSpring RCB3P to system and I could have sworn it should last longer using it to fill my 220 gal with 75 gallon sump and my smaller 35 gallon tank and using it as ATO water. iSpring says they should be good for up to 30,000 gallons?? How long do your filters last or how long should I expect on average? I have to be honest I've been a little lazy and haven't hooked up TDS meter built will now.
Also, I have a good iSpring whole house filtration system and one of the filters on it is for heavy metals. So I'm really confused how going through that and then again through my RoDI I have such high #'s.
So I guess time to change filters and resin right?
I already ordered CupriSorb and a few other things, but need to order filters before doing water change so doing that now.
Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240128-203932.png
    Screenshot_20240128-203932.png
    93.4 KB · Views: 97
  • PXL_20240129_044330229.jpg
    PXL_20240129_044330229.jpg
    75.4 KB · Views: 91
Not familiar with that filter. I don’t see a membrane? Or do canisters? Kinda just looks like 3 20” prefikter cannisters? What’s in there exactly. Is there more to it I’m not seeing?
 
Coral reefer said:
Not familiar with that filter. I don’t see a membrane? Or do canisters? Kinda just looks like 3 20” prefikter cannisters? What’s in there exactly. Is there more to it I’m not seeing?
Click to expand...
The carbon block as well as 3 RO membranes are all on the back side sideways. The DI resin in off to the side seperate and at the very end.
 
Last edited:
Where's the rest of your ICP results? Technically you're seeing just silica and zinc here, and the cuprisorb won't remove silica.

Also is this water you tested from your display tank or straight out of the fresh water you produced? I'd check to make sure your unit is installed correctly too and that you're not taking water off the waste line.
 
The water is the direct rodi water from the filter spout. The rest of the test is fine other than this section. I want to get my RoDI water under control. Will changing the filters and Di resin do that or is there a special resin for silica? I believe I exhausted the filters on my RoDI system so looking to replace that.
Also, what is the best way to use CupriSorb in the sump? Just put it in a net bag under flow or is there a better way?
I can send pics tmrw of how it is all connected. The waste line is marked and I believe it is connected correctly according to the diagrams I have but will upload pics tmrw.
 
Unless you're seeing issues with diatoms in your tank, don't worry about the silica. Frankly if the tank is fine, just stay with your regular maintenance schedule. Zinc isn't super toxic either and could be coming from even a bad metal tap outlet (I see you have a drinking water tank so assuming it's being used for that purpose too).

The problem with the opaque canisters is that you can't easily see your DI resin to see if it's exhausted either. Usually that's a good way to tell or check your the TDS meter.

There's a lot of factors that can affect performance (water pressure, source water, temperature, etc.) But in short usually you can replace sediment, carbon block, and DI annually to be safe and usually get about 2-3 years on your RO membranes.

I usually don't recommend BRS videos but this one isn't bad:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top