Flagg37
Guest
I’m sure there’ll be some adjusting but I guess I’m banking on my marine pure block carrying the bulk of my beneficial bacteria.
In the beginning...
- Thread starter Flagg37
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And it will, but there will be some die-off from lack of flow, etc. S there will be a bit of a cycle still in all likelihood. It's kind of like when someone changes out or adds a bunch more dsand to their tank... it starts a mini cycle.
RandyC
Supporting Member
If I was doing it, I would get an dc-to-ac inverter for the car and use a 100W heater and airstones for the drive if you have the space to hold the freezer with water. Gotta worry about sloshing though...could damage some corals.
If you're worried about a cycle because of things dying, you should start cycling a live rock and marine pure in Colorado right when you get there. Lather a couple bottles of Dr Tim's bacteria on it, let it soak and then put it in saltwater and hope it can cycle in a Week. Hopefully, it'll be ready to offset anything that died and pollutes your water.
If you're worried about a cycle because of things dying, you should start cycling a live rock and marine pure in Colorado right when you get there. Lather a couple bottles of Dr Tim's bacteria on it, let it soak and then put it in saltwater and hope it can cycle in a Week. Hopefully, it'll be ready to offset anything that died and pollutes your water.
Flagg37
Guest
My two clown fish FINALLY took up residence in my purple LTA. Wow that only took over 2 years.
We leave for Colorado tomorrow but I’ll be back Jan 5th to finish up the contracts that I have signed already. I’m planning on transporting all of the rock and livestock over the next few months. I’m planning on doing an in wall tank (if I can get my wife’s consent on it). I’ll use the same stand but make a new tank. It will be the same width (48”) but it’s depth will increase another 4-1/2” to account for the wall thickness and I’ve always wanted a taller tank. The new dimensions will be 48” x 34-1/2” x 30”. I’ll try and get a rendering of what I have in mind soon.
We leave for Colorado tomorrow but I’ll be back Jan 5th to finish up the contracts that I have signed already. I’m planning on transporting all of the rock and livestock over the next few months. I’m planning on doing an in wall tank (if I can get my wife’s consent on it). I’ll use the same stand but make a new tank. It will be the same width (48”) but it’s depth will increase another 4-1/2” to account for the wall thickness and I’ve always wanted a taller tank. The new dimensions will be 48” x 34-1/2” x 30”. I’ll try and get a rendering of what I have in mind soon.
xcaret
Guest
Nice size tank, Mike @sfsuphysics has a similar dimension box, 48x36x27
But the Colorado Rocky Mountain high
I've seen it rainin' fire in the sky
The shadow from the starlight
Is softer than a lullaby
Rocky mountain high (Colorado)
Rocky mountain high (Colorado)
I've seen it rainin' fire in the sky
The shadow from the starlight
Is softer than a lullaby
Rocky mountain high (Colorado)
Rocky mountain high (Colorado)
Flagg37
Guest
So I just got back from being gone for 3 weeks in Colorado. Some good news and some bad news. The tank survived but is in need of some real tlc. I had my brother feed the tank and that was about it so major algae on the glass and a pretty good gha outbreak.
The bad news is I lost my maxima clam for some yet unknown reason. Apparently it had released itself from the rock and fell to the sand bed the day I left. My brother told me about 2 weeks in that my clam looked like something was wrong with it. He showed me a picture of it and said it had been down there the whole time he was watching it.
The good news is that one of my rainbow bta’s split then split again, and again. So now I have 3 that I’ll be trying to sell. Most everything else looks like it’s a fair amount larger too. There are a couple chalices that are receding a bit. I haven’t done any water testing yet to determine where I need to go from here though.
One other thing, the week before I left my apex alarm started going off saying my temp was like 90 degrees. It wasn’t but it’s been determined that something with the unit is wrong. I’ve got an rma number to send it in but now I’ve got to figure out how to keep things alive while it gets sorted out. I’ve become so reliant on it. The only thing that can’t run stand alone are my WAVs. Lights, return, heater can all be run without the apex. I guess I should ask, does anyone have any spare mp40’s or maybe an mp60?
The bad news is I lost my maxima clam for some yet unknown reason. Apparently it had released itself from the rock and fell to the sand bed the day I left. My brother told me about 2 weeks in that my clam looked like something was wrong with it. He showed me a picture of it and said it had been down there the whole time he was watching it.
The good news is that one of my rainbow bta’s split then split again, and again. So now I have 3 that I’ll be trying to sell. Most everything else looks like it’s a fair amount larger too. There are a couple chalices that are receding a bit. I haven’t done any water testing yet to determine where I need to go from here though.
One other thing, the week before I left my apex alarm started going off saying my temp was like 90 degrees. It wasn’t but it’s been determined that something with the unit is wrong. I’ve got an rma number to send it in but now I’ve got to figure out how to keep things alive while it gets sorted out. I’ve become so reliant on it. The only thing that can’t run stand alone are my WAVs. Lights, return, heater can all be run without the apex. I guess I should ask, does anyone have any spare mp40’s or maybe an mp60?
That Joseph shih TOTM guy stores a spare apex in case his apex craps out. Pretty extreme, but I guess if you’re very dependent on it, makes sense. I have a spare MP40 upgraded to QD that I can loan you if you’re planning on returning it. Or were you planning on buying?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a spare mp40 currently not in use if you can get to oakland or have someone pick it up and bring it down to you.
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Flagg37
Guest
Alright, so here is what I've got planned so far for the new tank build.
This is from the "display" side which is our living room. The wall has a recessed portion. It is a normal 4-1/2" thick in the recessed area, but then is 9" thick at the bottom and the sides. I hope that makes sense.
This is the tank room side which is currently our office.
The tank will be kind of like an in wall peninsula tank. You will be able to see through from one room to the next. The only side of the tank that will be black will be the plumbing side which faces a wall so there's no real place to view it from anyway. Here's where I want some of your input. I want to produce a gyre effect where the water flows across the top into the overflow box and down to the sump then gets pumped back up but to the bottom of the tank (the two bottom holes represent where the water will retrun) where it will flow across the bottom to the opposite side where the WAV's will be positioned to blow it back across the top to the overflow. The issue that I'd like to try and find a solution for is to try and eliminate the risk of flooding if the return pump goes out. In my current set up I have a check valve on the return and it works really well, but if that was to fail, the return plumbing is right at the surface of the water so that only a small amount of water may fall back into the sump if there was a failure. I don't mind still using the check valves, but is there any way to have some redundancy built in to mitigate the risk and still keep the returns at the bottom?
This is from the "display" side which is our living room. The wall has a recessed portion. It is a normal 4-1/2" thick in the recessed area, but then is 9" thick at the bottom and the sides. I hope that makes sense.
This is the tank room side which is currently our office.
The tank will be kind of like an in wall peninsula tank. You will be able to see through from one room to the next. The only side of the tank that will be black will be the plumbing side which faces a wall so there's no real place to view it from anyway. Here's where I want some of your input. I want to produce a gyre effect where the water flows across the top into the overflow box and down to the sump then gets pumped back up but to the bottom of the tank (the two bottom holes represent where the water will retrun) where it will flow across the bottom to the opposite side where the WAV's will be positioned to blow it back across the top to the overflow. The issue that I'd like to try and find a solution for is to try and eliminate the risk of flooding if the return pump goes out. In my current set up I have a check valve on the return and it works really well, but if that was to fail, the return plumbing is right at the surface of the water so that only a small amount of water may fall back into the sump if there was a failure. I don't mind still using the check valves, but is there any way to have some redundancy built in to mitigate the risk and still keep the returns at the bottom?
Flagg37
Guest
You guys are great. I'll keep you in mind when it comes time to take it apart to send it in.
Coral reefer
Past President
I think you have 2 choices. Go closed loop for te flow at the bottom, or have return pipes that go from the top of the tank to the bottom and have a siphon break drilled in them up at the surface.
Not sure what your overflow compartment will be like, but if they could be hidden In There and have a bulkhead(s) down at the bottom of the overflow box that they pump out into the display through that would work good.
Not sure what your overflow compartment will be like, but if they could be hidden In There and have a bulkhead(s) down at the bottom of the overflow box that they pump out into the display through that would work good.
Coral reefer
Past President
I've always wanted a closed loop
Flagg37
Guest
Those were the exact two options I was thinking. I guess I was hoping for some magical third option that I hadn't thought of.