High Tide Aquatics

ISO ozone generator

under_water_ninja

High Tide Aquatics
LFS Owner
Looking to add ozone to my coral system, let me know if any of you guys have any that you’re not using and want to sell or trade. Being that I run elevated ph, it has been suppressing my orp and I want it higher.
 
I have this Red Sea aqua zone plus 100 with new air dryer I’d be willing to trade for sps.My orp stays around 400


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Curious. What ill effects are you seeing with a suppressed ORP value? What are you planning (hoping) to gain by increasing ORP? Also, what do you consider low?
 
I keep flip flopping on Ozone. I love how clear it makes tanks, but the free radical counter argument always gets me. Curious if you have any thoughts on it.

I typically don’t run carbon in my tanks for fear of HLLE.

If you end up going to DIY route for the reactor, would really like to see your part list for it.
 
I thought the consensus was the measuring or worrying about ORP in our tanks is not helpful. We talk about it because there’s a probe for it, and there’s a probe for it because it was easy for Neptune to add one. I’d be happy to be educated differently.

The main difference I see in my tank is when I do water changes it temporarily lowers my ORP, and there is a daily cycle of lower in the evening and higher in the morning (mirror image of pH). I’m not worried that I’m doing something harmful to my tank when I lower the ORP by doing a water change.

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I realize this is more of a BST thread, but since it was posted in Discussion->Equipment and not BST, I’m feeling free to have a discussion :)
 
I keep flip flopping on Ozone. I love how clear it makes tanks, but the free radical counter argument always gets me. Curious if you have any thoughts on it.

I typically don’t run carbon in my tanks for fear of HLLE.

If you end up going to DIY route for the reactor, would really like to see your part list for it.
The HLLE argument can be tied to lignite carbon fines, just use a less dusty carbon like ROX (however it has been shown to deplete faster). https://afspubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1080/15222055.2011.635781

ROX does have downsides with escaping typical phosban reactor sponges : https://www.bareefers.org/forum/thr...r-rox-granules-pellets-or-high-capacity.7864/

But if you have the effluent run into a filter sock, you should be able to mitigate any issue. I know there's plenty of people here with lots of tangs that run quite a bit of carbon. Maybe they can chime in too.
 
I thought the consensus was the measuring or worrying about ORP in our tanks is not helpful. We talk about it because there’s a probe for it, and there’s a probe for it because it was easy for Neptune to add one. I’d be happy to be educated differently.

The main difference I see in my tank is when I do water changes it temporarily lowers my ORP, and there is a daily cycle of lower in the evening and higher in the morning (mirror image of pH). I’m not worried that I’m doing something harmful to my tank when I lower the ORP by doing a water change.

View attachment 45834

I realize this is more of a BST thread, but since it was posted in Discussion->Equipment and not BST, I’m feeling free to have a discussion :)
I’m curious the difference between tanks that run 300-400 and those that run 200-300. Never had a tank that went above 300 for any time. I know it’s not a metric to worry that much about but I am curious what drives the difference.
 
The HLLE argument can be tied to lignite carbon fines, just use a less dusty carbon like ROX (however it has been shown to deplete faster). https://afspubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1080/15222055.2011.635781

ROX does have downsides with escaping typical phosban reactor sponges : https://www.bareefers.org/forum/thr...r-rox-granules-pellets-or-high-capacity.7864/

But if you have the effluent run into a filter sock, you should be able to mitigate any issue. I know there's plenty of people here with lots of tangs that run quite a bit of carbon. Maybe they can chime in too.

I’ve been using rox 0.8 Carbon in a BRS media reactor for years. With and without a sponge. The inner canister usually good enough to hold back the carbon from escaping as long as flow is not too strong to tumble the media. If you want to push a ton of flow through it, then definitely use a sponge to stop it from grinding.
 
I've been running BRS bituminous carbon in a brs dual reactor for a few months now and see no ill effects on my tangs. When I load up new carbon I run about 3gal of RODI into a bucket through the reactors to rinse the carbon and gfo and it seems to be working great.
 
I’m curious the difference between tanks that run 300-400 and those that run 200-300. Never had a tank that went above 300 for any time. I know it’s not a metric to worry that much about but I am curious what drives the difference.
I thought the consensus was the measuring or worrying about ORP in our tanks is not helpful. We talk about it because there’s a probe for it, and there’s a probe for it because it was easy for Neptune to add one. I’d be happy to be educated differently.

The main difference I see in my tank is when I do water changes it temporarily lowers my ORP, and there is a daily cycle of lower in the evening and higher in the morning (mirror image of pH). I’m not worried that I’m doing something harmful to my tank when I lower the ORP by doing a water change.

View attachment 45834

I realize this is more of a BST thread, but since it was posted in Discussion->Equipment and not BST, I’m feeling free to have a discussion :)
Yes I have never worried about orp, but now that my nerdiness level has gone way up, I want to so correlation on orp and over all coral health and growth. My water is super clean and clean, I don’t run uv or carbon, so that’s not why I want to use it, I just want to experiment with running higher orp with the higher ph, my orp is always suppressed due to me running elevated ph, my ph average is 8.44
 
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