Whatever is cheaper?
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So no advantage/disadvantage to using one over the other?
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Whatever is cheaper?
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No you can cycle with anything with salinity in a rough ballpark. Just keeping bacteria alive. Turn on heaters, leave lights off.
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What do you plan on using for water changes? Use that to start withShould I cycle my tank with sea/ocean water purchased from Neptune or with mixed salt water?
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Just remember that the fan cools by evaporation so the more surface area the more efficient it will be. Also on the same note, if your sump is enclosed in your stand all that evaporated moisture gets trapped in there.
Lastly, take your time and make sure the tank is fully cycled and even when it is, take it slowly when adding your livestock.
I like the rocks
Oh are they in quarantine?
So I noticed that you wanted to keep mandarins. Im definitely going to keep mandarins one day, just not right now, so I will share with you what I know. Generally, you need a giant tank to have self sustaining pods, like 100+ gallons. Some people say they can sustain their pod community in smaller tanks that are heavily fed, but who knows. I originally planned on creating pod farms, and I still want to culture rotifers for raising fish fry one day. For a pod farm, I've seen 2 different set ups. One guy bought tons of corrugated plastic and cut them up into "cards" so he had a tremendous amount of surface area for the pods. He kept them in their own 10 gallon with an airstone an fed that tank. When pods ran low, he tossed a card into the display. The other set up was a similar idea. He made rectangular enclosures, maybe 2 inch by 2 inch by 8 inch or so, made out of some net like material, and filled them up with rubble rock. He would then transfer these from refugium to display
They need phyto as food. If you don't dose phyto they don't have any food source.
We have looked hard at all the pods available and from what we have read, Apocyclops are by far the best. They will eat phyto, nuisance algae, and poo. As for the Tiggers, you have to keep the water a little green for them to eat which can screw up your whole system. I think the recommended phyto dose is 2ml twice a day for 5 gallons of water for culturing. The pods will eat the phyto if it is dead. There should be an expiration on the bottle.I do feed my refugium with phyto that I got from the last coral farmers market but I only do so a couple times a week. Should I do it more? Maybe the pytho has gone bad? Or maybe the pods are there and I'm just not looking close enough. Either way, I'm bout to order from algae barn and seed my tank with their mixed pods. I'm also going to set up a separate pod culture.
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We have looked hard at all the pods available and from what we have read, Apocyclops are by far the best. They will eat phyto, nuisance algae, and poo. As for the Tiggers, you have to keep the water a little green for them to eat which can screw up your whole system. I think the recommended phyto dose is 2ml twice a day for 5 gallons of water for culturing. The pods will eat the phyto if it is dead. There should be an expiration on the bottle.
Mark
In my 5 gallon culture bucket they are getting 2 1/2ml phytofeast a twice day. I don't do anything special for them in my DT/frag tanks but these tanks get a little residual phyto when I strain the pods into the tanks.In that case, I think I will go with Apocyclops only as well. Thanks for the wisdom! Btw, how often and how much phyto do you feed your apocyclops?
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If you would like to swing by, I can give you enough Apocyclops to get started?In my 5 gallon culture bucket they are getting 2 1/2ml phytofeast a twice day. I don't do anything special for them in my DT/frag tanks but these tanks get a little residual phyto when I strain the pods into the tanks.