Jestersix

kessil 360we killing my corals??

Kremis said:
has your alk swinged lately? when my birdsnest bleached from the center out it was due to an alk swing, not lights. it maeks no sense why lights would cause the coral to bleach inside out, like the lowest light part of the coral bleaches first because of high light doesnt really make sense
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Was thinking maybe the upper branches were starting to shade the lower half of the birdsnest and starve it from light, but even the upper branches are not as vibrant as they once were. Alk has pretty much stayed the same.
 
9 out of 10, it's always quality related issues when it comes to corals dying.

You may want to do full panel testing...Alk, CA, Mg, Salinity and Temp. Your PO4 is high if it's 0.02. You should be targeting below 0.003.

In addition, if anything, it seems like you're actually starving your corals of light. 25% white and 35% intensity seems pretty low.

Also...considering your tank is only 4 months, weekly water change may be a bit too excessive because you are going to shock the heck out of corals that needs high organic goodies, such as softies and birds nest.

Finally, corals are extremely sensitive to bleaching if Iodide level is low. You may want to check that also.
 
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robert4025 said:
9 out of 10, it's always quality related issues when it comes to corals dying.

You may want to do full panel testing...Alk, CA, Mg, Salinity and Temp. Your PO4 is high if it's 0.02. You should be targeting below 0.003.

In addition, if anything, it seems like you're actually starving your corals of light. 25% white and 35% intensity seems pretty low.

Finally, corals are extremely sensitive to bleaching if Iodide level is low. You may want to check that also.
Click to expand...
I agree that 35% seems low, but at 40 corals were burnin up.
I need to check my Iodide, Im not sure what the # is at
 
Just a crappy Marineland LED. But it is blasting some of my corals.

*Lets talk temperature. Did you have a spike to 90 degrees?
 
Looking more, I think the problem is a lack of coral nutrients.

>Softball size green birdsnest turning bone white from the bottom up thru the mid of the body. back corner mid.
If light was really to bright, why would the sections with the least light (bottom and inside) die first?

>All my Euphyllia doing great, 2 torch, 1 frogspawn, 2 hammers.
Softies are usually more sensitive to excess light than hard corals, yet these are doing ok.
The key difference: These can eat larger nutrients, directly from what you feed.

Your nitrates are 0. (rare)
You do large water changes every week.
Your tank is still pretty new. No micro-fauna.
You have fairly few fish.

So my recommendation is to feed corals directly.
Liquid Oyster feast in particular, spot fed.
Then mix a few other freeze dried ones, and mix with fish food.
 
You can pick up a triton icp test kit from Neptune if you want to double check your water chemistry. I have a hard time believing it’s too much light.
 
Coral reefer said:
Is that for real? I thought .03 was good. Is there an accidental extra zero in there?
Also, I'm curious how the OP is testing phosphate?
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I’m pretty sure there’s an extra zero. I don’t know of any testers that will get that low. Mine is at .2 right now (I’d like it to be .02) but nothing appears to be dying though.
 
Flagg37 said:
I’m pretty sure there’s an extra zero. I don’t know of any testers that will get that low. Mine is at .2 right now (I’d like it to be .02) but nothing appears to be dying though.
Click to expand...

Hanna checker Phosphorus checker will go that low.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/phos...pdi9m4lo1bPwVripdekiP3iO0-LgHTLhoCivsQAvD_BwE

Randy Holmes Farley recommends that phosphates be kept at < 0.03 ppm and suggests a target value of 0.02ppm.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
 
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