High Tide Aquatics

King's Landing Aquarium

Both. 1/4" return as well as a 1/4" surge. I drilled a hole in my ADA "30g" for a 1" bulkhead, then made a rock structure using Emaco and MarcoRock Key Largo rubble. I left the top of the structure open and I simply rest loose rocks across it.

The tank, and sump, are the only tank I have at home. It's not plumbed into any other system, but it could be if I wanted it to. No reason it won't work.

I get about a 5" tidal rise and drop, though I could make it go higher. I cannot go lower, I have turtle grass limping along.
 
Ok, deposit is in on a 15'x4'x3 from Titan Aquatics. I need to pour a little cement to make the floor perfectly level where the tank is going and change a wall where one end is going to be. Hope to have the tank in by August, but Murphy is as Murphy does. Going to start working on the fish room first, need to build a stand for the 240g over the 300g, deciding on a sump, planning the plumbing and RO auto top-off.

Trying to figure out a way of mounting the lights so the can be shifted into the fish room for easier access, a heavy duty rail with the lights mounted on rollers might work and then I could change the placement of the lights. There is going to be a large canopy with doors, so not too limited in space. As of right now I am thinking Radions, but this could change as specs and techs change.

Equipment thoughts so far:
Super Reef Octopus 9000
MRC CCR-3824 Triple Calcium Reactor
I have a few BRS Jumbo Reactors
Not sure if I want to give Bio Pellets a go again.

Thoughts and recommendations welcome.
 
Sweet! About 1,200 gallons huh.
Not quite big enough to play water polo in though.

Ideas:
Gas heater. Electric bill will be killer as it is, and that would save a lot.
Some sort of semi-automatic salt water change system, and a really big tank for mixing.
For lights, have multiple independent sections. Perhaps five of 3'x4'. Makes it a lot easier to move, etc.
 
Rygh: On the previous tank, we mounted the AIs on peg board to make it more easy to remove, worked really well. The nice thing about the peg board was being able to mount the lights anywhere over the tank depending on how the rockwork was moved. That tank was in-wall with access from the back, this is open. I have thought about having a canopy that the sides are removable instead of doors, not sure at this point.

I have a 300g tower, figuring out whether it is worth it to keep that much fresh water on hand all the time or using it for water changes. I am hoping I can keep the tower in a storage area next to the fish room with a nozzle into the room. I would prefer to have a sump that will hold 300g of water so I can do water changes from there. I was looking at My Reef Creations sumps, very clean.
 
Congrats on ordering the tank Parker !

Some type of rail system where you can move the lights out of the way would be cool. How many Radions are you planning on ? The BRS jumbo reactors are going to be way to small for your tank unless you are running them in series ? You might want to contact Chris (Chicken) about the heat exchanger he has for sale or any other equipment for your size tank. You might need duel 300 gallon water towers for your setup (1 freshwater and 1 saltwater) !
 
Didn't realize my membership had lapsed, fixed that.

I have 4 of the jumbo reactors, and figured I could use 2 each for carbon and GFO. Since one of the dreams is to eliminate mechanical filtration as much as possible, I was hoping that would be enough once I get the seagrass and macro tanks up and running. I am going to be taking it really slow, I am trying to figure out the order of setup. I think if I plan on putting the fish in first and establishing the tank with them and mechanical filtration, I can add the macros and seagrass and slowly tone down mechnical, and lastly have fun with coral. Still trying to figure out how to keep everything balanced in the beginning.

The question I have is the fresh water, and do I need to have a lot of it on hand? When something goes horribly wrong, I typically have needed a lot of saltwater. I was going to have the RO plumbed directly to an auto top off, figured there will be enough evaporation that the RO would be constantly running. Thoughts?

I have been looking at gas heaters, I could run a gas line to the fish room with the HVAC being on the roof almost directly above the fish room. Think that is really the only feasible way? And cost effective...

One of the parts of the tank that I am still trying to figure is attaching a small NPS tank to the system. Having a cryptic tank tied into the whole system would make maintaining the NPS tank a little easier, and if I plumb it so all of the necessary feeding from the NPS tank dumps into the display and then to the macros and seagrass I thought there wouldn't be as much of a need for mechanical filtration to keep N&P low.
 
h20player101 said:
I have been looking at gas heaters, I could run a gas line to the fish room with the HVAC being on the roof almost directly above the fish room. Think that is really the only feasible way? And cost effective...
Click to expand...
I have been considering a gas heater myself, which is largely why I mentioned it.
My plan was to have a separate tankless heater, and a water loop that went through the heater,
then that loop goes into the sump, with a few loops of PEX tubing.
To "heat" the tank, you just turn the pump on for that loop.
Doing it that way, no issues with salt water in the heater, or issues with copper/stainless fittings
in the heater causing water problems in main tank.
But importantly for you, it also means you can put the heater wherever you want,
possibly even in the ceiling next to the HVAC, and just run the water line to it (insulated of course).
Ventilation of the heater can be a pain.
 
h20player101 said:
The question I have is the fresh water, and do I need to have a lot of it on hand? When something goes horribly wrong, I typically have needed a lot of saltwater. I was going to have the RO plumbed directly to an auto top off, figured there will be enough evaporation that the RO would be constantly running. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Directly connected is really scary.
Connect RO to a barrel, with a float valve or fancy electronic valve.
Then pump it in as needed like a normal ATO. Just bigger.

I do not see the need for lots of freshwater on hand, but a small barrel (35G) is handy,
in case something fails and you have to top off manually until parts come in.

Honestly, with a huge system and investment like you have, I would go way out of my way to avoid risks.
Perhaps even consider a dual RODI, and a dual ATO pump.
 
If you are using ROX carbon, then two BRS jumbo reactors might work. I use the lignite carbon and 8 cups is just enough to cover 400 gallons of water. 1 jumbo reactor of GFO is not enough for even my setup. I think having 2 large water tanks can only help, but you are correct having a large tower of saltwater in case of a emergency is a must. I wouldn't plumb the RO directly into the auto top off...heard too many horror stories of auto top off failure. A gas heater and HVAC sounds like a good plan. A NPS tank plumbed to the 1,200 would be too cool. :steve:
 
So there is the tank... There is the stand for the filtration tanks... Tearing out a wall, the new wall will be the height of the tank. This makes it viewable from 3 sides.
 
The tank was delivered today, can't wait to get home and see it! Hopefully should have it up and running in the next few months. Decided on an MRC sump & calc reactor, got Chris from AC's old RK2 Skimmer (plus a few tanks for quarantine), just need miles of pipe and fittings!
 
Wow, beast of a tank. Sweet!!!
Over-size those drain pipes! I hugely regret only using two 1.5 pipes on my overflows, and my tank is only 250G.
The reason I mention it is because you are probably doing like me : The sump is not underneath the display.
 
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