ReefSparky
Supporting Member
Tropic Marin pro is back in stock at brs if anyone is looking for it
I think Tropic Marin Classic is a lot more available than Tropic Marin Pro. I’ve seen it just sitting there in LFS’s, for example at Cali Kid in Concord last weekend.
You might want to consider Red Sea blue bucket.
A slight step up from IO. Very close to normal sea water parameters.
Reasonable cost, and usually available everywhere. Including BRS and Amazon.
I have used it with success, mixes well, and no issues changing from IO and back.
The main problem for me is that the 200G sack is a single sack, not 4x50G bags like IO, so a hassle.
You might want to consider Red Sea blue bucket.
A slight step up from IO. Very close to normal sea water parameters.
Reasonable cost, and usually available everywhere. Including BRS and Amazon.
I have used it with success, mixes well, and no issues changing from IO and back.
The main problem for me is that the 200G sack is a single sack, not 4x50G bags like IO, so a hassle.
The Fritz blue box I bought at Neptune’s a couple weeks ago came in 4 bags, but I prefer one large bag/sack because I can’t get my salt scoop into those little bags (and we all know better than to dump the whole bag into our mixing container at once, riiight?)You might want to consider Red Sea blue bucket.
A slight step up from IO. Very close to normal sea water parameters.
Reasonable cost, and usually available everywhere. Including BRS and Amazon.
I have used it with success, mixes well, and no issues changing from IO and back.
The main problem for me is that the 200G sack is a single sack, not 4x50G bags like IO, so a hassle.
Most salt mixes do contain some ammonia, phosphate, etc to help grow some bacteria. Tropic Marin pro is an exception, claiming no phosphate or ammonia. Now if you are using salt for a coral QT having .03ppm phosphate and some ammonia from the get-go is not a bad thing. If you are doing water changes to reduce P then maybe tropic Marin is better.Tips:
With some salts, or if temp is hot, I get a white residue in the mixing barrel, which I suspect is precipitate.
If you add a bit of magnesium just before you mix the salt, this is greatly reduced.
I suspect that during initial mixing, local concentrations of alk/ca are high, and MG reduces precipitation.
I always get a bit of brown crud in the mixing barrel over time.
I have found that this gets much worse when my carbon is overdue for replacement.
I suspect ammonia from Chloramines is causing bacterial growth.
First, I’m jealous that you found a MJ-1200. (The Cobalt brand one not actual maxi jet which is a lower quality pump). They seem always sold out. I can’t believe the amount of junk you are filtering out, I have never seen anything similar with Red Sea blue or fritz blue (or tropic Marin). I wonder if using a lid and wiping down the container with RODI between every 2 or so uses has prevented the creeping crud for my case?I use Red Sea Blue Bucket, but I still pump the mix through a 5 micron sediment filter otherwise the bucket will get dirty eventually. I just use a BRS 10" canister connected to an MJ-1200 and dump the whole thing in my mixing bin.
This was after around 3 of the large 175 gallon buckets of salt.
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... I prefer one large bag/sack because I can’t get my salt scoop into those little bags (and we all know better than to dump the whole bag into our mixing container at once, riiight?)
"Blue" really just means regular, not pro.Where does one find Red Sea salt “blue” top? Im
In San Jose.